Project Frog Princess

Members Restorations

  1. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    I've had a long hiatus from the Dart, but have finally got back to it. The other half wanted AC. Just got done putting a high velocity system in the attic. Contortionist maneuvers in a 110 degree attic is... well I'd rather work on the Dart.

    This was my first diff rebuild. I went rather well, not as hard as people make it sound. There's lots of tutorials online to help out. Here's a few pics with how I managed without a press.

    The bearing remover is a must for the pinion bearings, at least if you want to use the old ones for test fitting as I did. I used a 2" flap wheel to enlarge the ID of the larger one to allow it on and off for testing purposes. For the smaller one, a woodworking sanding drum worked well. I did not measure pinion depth. The Ford 8.8 is made to have a standard depth referred to as the master housing depth. If using the same pinion, and the new rear bearing measures the same, you can use the shim that was in place and reproduce the old setting. At least that's the theory and it worked for me.

    My inch pound torque wrench is a clicker, and made for higher measurements than the 15 - 30 needed to set pinion preload so I used a fishing scale (tested for accuracy first) to tug on a breaker bar at 10". 2 - 3 lb = 20 - 30 inch pounds. The advice to tighten 1/8 turn at a time is for real. I think I was under 1/8 and it jumped to 30, the upper limit. Going over would mean starting over with a new crush sleeve. To hold the pinion while applying well over 140 ft lbs I drilled a couple holes and cut a notch in a 3 foot length of angle iron.

    I first set it in range with the used bearings, without the crush sleeve, then installed the carrier and adjusted the shims to get a .009 backlash. The gear pattern came out nice with no further adjustment required.

    I did not have to remove carrier bearings since this was a new Yukon Duragrip. To install new bearings on it, I washed them in solvent, then Dawn dishwashing liquid, and heated them to 350 in my shop oven. They still required tapping into place with a punch. The rear pinion bearing slipped right into place with this method with no punch required.

    For whatever reason, once I put new bearings on , and a crush sleeve, my backlash dropped to .005 which is too low. I moved a .005 shim from one side to the other and it was back in range at .009 with a good pattern.

    To install the axles with the Yukon carrier, you just remove the side gear shaft. There's a large and small access window, the larger one provides room for C-clip installation.

    I've just begun the spring relocation to frame rails so the shortened 8.8 will have a home.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
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    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      The relocation boxes are in. The first part of the day was spent working on the rotisserie. For whatever reason, it spun a Duster fine with just a come along connecting front and back. With a Dart no go so I built a support leg with a castered wheel. Works great now. So nice to have for this kind of project.

      I chose to leave the outer frame intact. I located the bolt holes high to lower the car. I left 3/8" clearance above the spring eye. The hole was moved 3/4" back from factory location. I used the original hangers to reference the fore/aft location by just scratching a line even with the back of the hangers and measuring to the hole, move 3/4" back.

      A step drill and small air angle drill worked nicely in this space. To locate the inner hole in proper alignment, I fastened the box in place with screws and installed a spring, lined up on the rear frame. Kinda funny how my shop stool seat lift raised the spring so nicely. :D

      The car was levelled, spring levelled, and then marks made by spinning the bolt. I had sprayed some white paint on the inside of the box. A long drill through the inner hole was used to start the outer hole. I finished it with the step drill in a drill press. Turns out the hole came out exactly where it would have if I'd just duplicated the measurements from the outer one.

      Time to weld it in. Plug welds were added to the outer frame. On the inside, the forward part was too tight to get at with the MIG, so I used a plasma cutter to slice a wedge, bend it down and reweld. This created room to get a decent bead the full length of the box. Here's where leaving that 3/8" clearance paid off.

      Next the boxes were trimmed back to match the frame. I'm thinking of cutting up the original hangers, and welding the holes in place like washers to create more wear surface.

      For the rear spring mounts I've got sliders waiting. Then the freshly rebuilt shortened 8.8 will have a home.

      frog 152-1.jpg

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      Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
    • gdrill

      gdrill If you drink, think, before you type...... Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      Hey good to see you back at it! Lookin' good.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Thanks. The other thing that caused a delay is being sick of a cluttered dirty shop. I spent about a month picking away at organizing and cleaning. I built a 14 foot wide set of cabinets, new bench top, and increased the lighting. Made it into a place I enjoy again.

      frog 154-1.jpg
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Here's the slot cut into the frame with some reinforcement ready to have a spring slider mounted. The reason for the slot in the frame is to keep the car low. This idea was shamelessly stolen from youngun2.0 on this site. Hey I figure if you put it here its fair game. To decide where to mount them fore and aft, I marked the spring eye position on the frame in relaxed state, then loaded the spring until straight, and made another mark. The slider was then positioned so there's about an extra 1/2" travel beyond the straight position. This gives at least an inch of forward travel forward from the relaxed position. That's in case I decide to do some Dukes of Hazard style jumping.

      frog 155-1.jpg
       
    • jrlegacy23

      jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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      That is a cool idea with notching the frame.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      If good ideas are gold nuggets, FABO is a good stream for panning :)
      Cudos to youngun2.0.
       
    • 76orangewagon

      76orangewagon Well-Known Member

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      Just think if we could all get together, bundle our ideas and build a few beloved Mopar A bodies. Good job.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Thanks. I am amazed at the talent. Your build is a prime example. I am a hack in comparison, but having fun anyway.

      Today I welded the sliders in. The bushings supplied by Speedway were too large so I got a little creative with my drill press and a file. I hot glued the bushing onto the inner bushing so it could be chucked in the press. They had to be reduced from .920 to .875 which is a press fit int the rear spring eye. Time consuming but I got them within .001 tolerance.

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      Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
    • jrlegacy23

      jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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      Nice. Can't way to see this get done.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Got the diff in place perches not yet welded but its sitting on the ground on four wheels for the first time. I was on pins and needles wondering where the rear stance would turn out. Basically its about right, but may actually be low when I get the interior and drive train in. Not sure how much that will drop it. Regardless, I've been waiting a long time to get a first look on four wheels. :D

      There's no torsion bars in, so its sitting on the LCA stops. Would be nice if I could keep it that low but of course I can't. Also, the rear discs are not in place so the wheels will move out a smidge.

      Locating the diff correctly was a puzzler at first. I was doing a lot of repetetive measuring, then for lateral placement, realized with the wheels and tires on, wood spacers between the inner tire and frame rail cut to fit tight was an easy solution. For front to back, I referenced from the torsion bar mounts. Turned out the rear tail light panel was dead on so I can more easily use that reference.

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      Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
    • 76orangewagon

      76orangewagon Well-Known Member

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      Wow that sits nice...good job, I like the wheel tire combo.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Thanks. I'm sure you know about all the mental acrobatics that go into it. Wheel choice was agonizing... backspacing... tire width, profile, diff width etc. Mistakes could be rather costly. Glad to be through that part.
       
    • jrlegacy23

      jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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      I know that feeling also. I just ordered my wheels a couple days ago.
      [​IMG]
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Those were on my list - nice.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      About now I'm ready for the loony bin. :tongue3:
      A couple of you tried to tell me earlier, get the HDK.
      I'm lookin at the car... don't like the idea of raising the front.

      Sooo.... I just put all the 73 up suspension parts for sale. If they go I'll be joining the HDK club.

      Here's the post:
      http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=247057
       
    • CudaChris67

      CudaChris67 Well-Known Member

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      nice work- someone will buy your reconditioned stuff
       
    • jrlegacy23

      jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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      You won't be disappointed.
       
    • CudaChris67

      CudaChris67 Well-Known Member

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      your front end parts sold so fast, you have me thinking...
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      They lasted about a 1/2 hr or so :) Pulling them off the car this afternoon.
      Getting measurements for a HDK...

      Thinking? That can be dangerous.
      (and expensive) :)
       
    • 76orangewagon

      76orangewagon Well-Known Member

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      I heard that...I was gonna just do a factory rebuild with a couple minor Modifications...then I started thinking...good luck
       
    • CudaChris67

      CudaChris67 Well-Known Member

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      hmm, that is what i keep telling myself, then I found some 17" wheels i like(plus you guys have paved the way)...


      funny how the same 8 or so guys are all commenting on the same/eachother's builds.

      I read other builds, but seem to comment on ones like this the most.
       
    • Idaho

      Idaho Well-Known Member

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      Is there rehab for this?
       
    • CudaChris67

      CudaChris67 Well-Known Member

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      i guess we could just build fox body mustangs, meet for coffee with our catalogs and order our cars together
       
    • jrlegacy23

      jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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      :glasses7:

      frog 175-1.jpg
       
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