Project Frog Princess

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  1. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Any of you HDK addicts know what measurements I should be getting?

    Denny has me getting him a floor to frame. Not sure what else he will need and the factory parts have to come out today.
     
  2. jrlegacy23

    jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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    Usually he wants it from floor to frame, like you said, but where the rear bolt holds the K-frame in.
     
  3. 76orangewagon

    76orangewagon Well-Known Member

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    Also you must have your car sitting at ride height when you take these measurements.
     
  4. HemiDenny

    HemiDenny HDK Suspension FABO Gold Member

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    either measurement works for me, as long as we are on the same page (spot).
     
  5. Spun Bearing

    Spun Bearing Lost in Space

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    Wait a minute!

    You spent half of your day on the rotissorie and the pinion bearing's
    in the oven.

    When do we eat?
     
  6. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    I measured at ride height just about an inch back of the place where the frame kicks upward, right at the point where a flange crosses over the frame and got 7 1/4" (average between sides).

    Then I pulled everything off and loaded it into Del's 67 Dart. Thanks Del.

    I told Denny I'm committed now, or need to be committed.
     
  7. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Super K.
    Cool.

    I'll bring a copy of the 12 steps to recovery.

    You nailed it.
     
  8. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Someone is recorded in the Guiness book as having eaten an entire car :D
     
  9. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/beep/PUMP_IT_DOWN-re-v1.4.pdf

    Found this solution to PS pump pressure. The later Magnums put out about 1400 psi. The Mustang II rack only wants about 7 - 800.

    I've also seen it in terms of volume, the Mustang rack wanting about 2 gal/min. Later Chevy pumps put out about 3, not sure on the Mopars.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
  10. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Well, since I'm waiting now to get an HDK, I finally decided its time to take a look at the 5.9 Magnum that's been so lonely sitting in a corner of the shop. I've really been looking forward to this part. My hope has been that the engine, which was taken from a rolled 98 pickup with 78,000 miles, would have a good serviceable shortblock.

    So far its promising. Only cylinder #1 has a detectable ridge, and the max diameter is 4.004, within acceptable tolerance. Only the upper 3/8" or so has notable taper. The crosshatch is easily visible on all cylinders. I have not completely measured, but it looks to me like the rest do not taper more than .002.

    I have not decided how far to go with inspection of the shortblock. of course the cam is coming out. If all the cylinders are good, I'm not worried about piston wear, so its mainly the crank I have to decide about. End play should be easy without disassembly.

    The bore gauge is a cheapo but measurements from cylinder to cylinder are perfectly repeatable so I'm confident in the results. I'm also showing a machinists 4" block as a reference standard. My caliper is surprisingly accurate. It measures .001 under at 4".

    frog 185-1.jpg

    frog 185-2.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 16, 2020
  11. jrlegacy23

    jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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    Make sure you check the heads good between the valves, they tend to crack there. An easy way to check this is put them in the freezer for a couple days. A frost line will develop on any cracks.
     
  12. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Very timely, I was going to post a question on that :) Thanks.

    I'm selling the heads, will be putting a set of RHS on. They look to be in great shape. They are a factory rebuilt set, low mileage.
     
  13. sireland67

    sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    On the crank I would at least pull #3 main bearing cap and a rod bearing cap to check.
    On my 94 mag everthing looked really nice, until I got to the crank, it ended up needing a .010 / .010 clean up.
     
  14. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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  15. sireland67

    sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    #3 main is the one with the thrust.

    I would not worry about the cracks, both heads on mine were.

    I had already planned on running aluminium so I gave mine to a buddy that burned a valve in his 250K mile ram, he lapped the valves, thru a new set of seals, and bolted them on, it is still running 2 yrs later, no water leaks.
     
  16. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Will check #3.
    Much appreciated.
     
  17. Abodybomber

    Abodybomber Breaking street machines , since 1983.....:) Legendary Member

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    Now I'm subscribed,Idaho. God knows,you researched it thoroughly. Good luck.
     
  18. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I've taken it to the point of being a pest.
    You and others have been helpful.

    I plan to continue being a pest. :)
     
  19. sireland67

    sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Somebody call the exterminator..........lol

    I know this one will turn out sweet, are you painting it green?
     
  20. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Green is the plan, although there are frogs that are not green so I have wiggle room.
     
  21. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Hate to even bring this up...
    More potential budget busting. Brian at IMM suggested some time ago that I change the pistons to something zero deck with valve reliefs. He's OK with me running the stockers if I check valve clearance and do not advance the cam.

    For now I plan to stay with the junkyard engine concept and do just that. I can always rebuild the bottom end down the road.

    I also have to decide on what rocker arms to run with the RHS heads. I thought of spending the dough on the Hughes shaft system and have a bullet proof top end. But I just noticed they are 1.65 ratio, not 1.6. Not sure what to make of that.

    Edit: just went back through communication with Brian. His suggestions were Hughs rockers (the non shaft ones I think - still $335!) or PRW ($121). I think if he's OK with PRW I'll trust his experience and save about $375 (the shaft rockers are $500).
     
  22. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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  23. 76orangewagon

    76orangewagon Well-Known Member

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  24. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    I inherited a relentless sniffer for deals from my grandfather. :)
    We also shared Pearl Harbor Day as our birthday.

    Checked crankshaft endplay = .004" Score!
    #3 main bearing journal and thrust surfaces not scored. Score!
    #3 main bearing clearance by plasti-gauge = .002"

    I think my short block is good to go. Thinking about the crank seals.
    Also, wondering if the 5.9 pan might work with the HDK. If so I think I'd like to build a windage tray for it.
     
  25. jrlegacy23

    jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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    I would jump on that like a homeless guy on a welfare check. I got my 11" drilled/slotted front rotors set up for around $250ish (can't remember exact $, from Helix suspension) and my spindles from speedway for $169. THe kit will use 7ish Ford Granada rotors so they are cheap to replace. And they look like the GM metric calipers also.
     
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