PST 1.03 Bars

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It's pretty hard to tell with the bars unloaded like that if they're clocked correctly.

The 1.03" bars do have an offset on them, they used to be zero indexed but that was what people complained about. Great if you want your car lower, not so great if you want anything close to stock ride height. I don't know what PST currently has for an offset, but it's not zero. So there is a left and a right, and it also probably means there's only one way to install them. With the factory bars the instruction was always to let the LCA hang down as far as it would go and install the bars there, that's not usually what you want for larger bars. With the large zero index bars there's usually two options, one that has the LCA's all the way down, and one with them basically parallel to the ground. With some large bars the lower option isn't even possible, the factory LCA's won't hang down far enough before interfering with the K frame.

If your plan is to reinstall them, then what I would say is don't install them with the LCA's all the way down. More than likely nothing will line up when you try to do that, so you'll have to raise them up from there to insert the bars. If that's the case, no worries, there's only one way to install them because the flats are 60° apart. If for some reason the bars DO line up with the LCA's hanging all the way down, lift the LCA's up until they line up with the next flat. Which should have the LCA's parallel to the ground or slightly up. If there are two possibly install points, the higher one (the one closer to actual ride height) is the one you want.
 
It's pretty hard to tell with the bars unloaded like that if they're clocked correctly.

The 1.03" bars do have an offset on them, they used to be zero indexed but that was what people complained about. Great if you want your car lower, not so great if you want anything close to stock ride height. I don't know what PST currently has for an offset, but it's not zero. So there is a left and a right, and it also probably means there's only one way to install them. With the factory bars the instruction was always to let the LCA hang down as far as it would go and install the bars there, that's not usually what you want for larger bars. With the large zero index bars there's usually two options, one that has the LCA's all the way down, and one with them basically parallel to the ground. With some large bars the lower option isn't even possible, the factory LCA's won't hang down far enough before interfering with the K frame.

If your plan is to reinstall them, then what I would say is don't install them with the LCA's all the way down. More than likely nothing will line up when you try to do that, so you'll have to raise them up from there to insert the bars. If that's the case, no worries, there's only one way to install them because the flats are 60° apart. If for some reason the bars DO line up with the LCA's hanging all the way down, lift the LCA's up until they line up with the next flat. Which should have the LCA's parallel to the ground or slightly up. If there are two possibly install points, the higher one (the one closer to actual ride height) is the one you want.


Thanks, Blu. I appreciate you jumping in. I am pretty sure I raised the LCA to meet up with the bar when I installed them. I guess it won't hurt to double check. :D
 
Thanks, Blu. I appreciate you jumping in. I am pretty sure I raised the LCA to meet up with the bar when I installed them. I guess it won't hurt to double check. :D

No problem! Sorry I was a little late to the show. :D

But yeah, as long as the LCA's aren't all the way at the bottom of their travel range when the bars are installed you should be ok. It's only when the larger bars are installed with the LCA's all the way at the bottom that problems come up with the ride height being too high.
 
No problem! Sorry I was a little late to the show. :D

But yeah, as long as the LCA's aren't all the way at the bottom of their travel range when the bars are installed you should be ok. It's only when the larger bars are installed with the LCA's all the way at the bottom that problems come up with the ride height being too high.

Everything is back together and torqued, except the LCA pivot nuts and the front strut nuts.

I know the LCA pivot nuts need to be torqued with the suspension at ride height and with the wheels on the ground. What about the front strut nuts?

I've read it both ways (loaded and unloaded)
 
Don’t know the answer either but I have mine loose until I can do the poor mans alignment. But I have the QA1 adjustables.
 
Don’t know the answer either but I have mine loose until I can do the poor mans alignment. But I have the QA1 adjustables.

This article says torque them down unloaded. How To Build In A Suspension Kit In A Dart Swinger 340 - Rebuild it! Mopar Suspension
Don’t know the answer either but I have mine loose until I can do the poor mans alignment. But I have the QA1 adjustables.

This article says unloaded, but the FSM says loaded. I just don't want to destroy a bushing. :)

How To Build In A Suspension Kit In A Dart Swinger 340 - Mopar Muscle Magazine
 
The 1.03" torsion bars that we offer have been engineered with a 20 degree clocking. Our bars install exactly the same way as the FSM describes. You should have both the upper and lower controls attached to the spindle. With the suspension at full droop, upper bump stop removed and the torsion bars adjuster backed off. Than slide the torsion bar in with boot and clip, tighten torsion bar adjuster to provide tension. Then lower vehicle to load suspension to check ride. Then re-adjust torsion bar adjuster to desired ride height.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
The 1.03" torsion bars that we offer have been engineered with a 20 degree clocking. Our bars install exactly the same way as the FSM describes. You should have both the upper and lower controls attached to the spindle. With the suspension at full droop, upper bump stop removed and the torsion bars adjuster backed off. Than slide the torsion bar in with boot and clip, tighten torsion bar adjuster to provide tension. Then lower vehicle to load suspension to check ride. Then re-adjust torsion bar adjuster to desired ride height.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing

Hi James, @PST

I literally just called and the tech told me to raise the LCA up as high as it would go with the bump stop removed. The reason I called is because when I lowered my car on the wheels it was sitting way high with the adjusters backed all the way out.

So you're saying the opposite?
 
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I’d be driving a gasser if this were the case.
 
Can you tell me the tech that you worked with ? These bars install exactly like factory with the wait of the suspension unloaded(hanging). Did you have the upper and lower control arm connected to the spindle? I asked because in your original photo you show the lower control arm disconnected.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
My LCAs were up but not level to the ground. I actually have room to adjust the suspension up now. It’s trial and error and I found there’s only two ways you can clock the bars.

With LCAs all the way down and drooping. I had no room to adjust suspension. Could only turn them in which would raise the suspension more. Not sure if I trust a marketing guy.

If you got a hold of an actual tech that knows what he’s talking about then go with what he says.
 
If you would like give me a call in the morning and I can walk you through the install. Or shoot me your phone number in a PM and will try to give you a call this evening.

Thanks
James
 
My LCAs were up but not level to the ground. I actually have room to adjust the suspension up now. It’s trial and error and I found there’s only two ways you can clock the bars.

With LCAs all the way down and drooping. I had no room to adjust suspension. Could only turn them in which would raise the suspension more. Not sure if I trust a marketing guy.

If you got a hold of an actual tech that knows what he’s talking about then go with what he says.

Just because I am the marketing manager here doesn't mean that I do not know what I doing. Prior to working for PST I worked in the racing and restoration business for 15 years and still restore a half dozen cars a year on nights and weekends. I do all the new products for PST and preform all installs of our parts prior to bring them to market. Marketing is just my title here. All the video that I have share here such as lower control arm rebuilding and welding are all me. If our customer service/tech team has and issue and can't figure out. I am the one they come to, to work out the issue. I wish many would not be so quick to judgement on here just because of my title of "Marketing" .

Thanks
James
 
In my world (anesthesia/surgical equipment) many marketing reps have very limited hands on use and knowledge of the products they sell customers.

My apologies for assuming based on your title. Maybe add.... Marketing Manager/Product Developer/Technical Advisor to your title?

Conflicting advice on the issue discussed in this thread has me second guessing my install. Luckily I haven’t locked everything down yet. Will see what the outcome here is and will give you a call if something seems outta place.
 
Can you tell me the tech that you worked with ? These bars install exactly like factory with the wait of the suspension unloaded(hanging). Did you have the upper and lower control arm connected to the spindle? I asked because in your original photo you show the lower control arm disconnected.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing

Originally, I had only what you saw in the picture, installed. And then I went forward and installed everything. I'll PM you my number.
 
Whatever the final outcome is, I would like to see the proper method for installing these listed here in this thread before it fizzles out.
I have my new set of torsion bars in the car now but it's still up on jack stands and I would like to make sure it's correctly installed sooner rather than later. I had my control arms hanging down when I slid them in and now I fear that may not be correct... -It would also be helpful for others to know, I'm sure.
I appreciate everyone's efforts!

IMG_20190305_170033330_HDR.jpg
 
Whatever the final outcome is, I would like to see the proper method for installing these listed here in this thread before it fizzles out.
I have my new set of torsion bars in the car now but it's still up on jack stands and I would like to make sure it's correctly installed sooner rather than later. I had my control arms hanging down when I slid them in and now I fear that may not be correct... -It would also be helpful for others to know, I'm sure.
I appreciate everyone's efforts!

View attachment 1715302382

I will absolutely, let you know and update this thread. Mine is all together and on the ground, bit if I need to remove the bars and re install, I'm glad to do it to make it right. Awaiting James's call.

Hard to tell the height, but my car is on the ground.

IMG_20190309_010532790.jpg
 
Mine is on the rack too.

My LCAs are kissing the frame rail bumpers and my adjuster bolts are all the way out. Turning them in now would raise the front end. Which is what I would expect while adjusting for desired ride height. I may try to get some pics later.
 
I will absolutely, let you know and update this thread. Mine is all together and on the ground, bit if I need to remove the bars and re install, I'm glad to do it to make it right. Awaiting James's call.

Hard to tell the height, but my car is on the ground.

View attachment 1715302390

That’s without touching the adjusting bolts?

Hard to tell with the fender apron blocking the gap between the fender lip and tire.
 
Pics of mine

Undercarriage

652B4632-7CD6-4EF0-B2F8-9AB457A1F0EE.jpeg
E23E4B6D-0AA4-44A1-897C-B7DAA44AC833.jpeg


Stance

215/65/15 fronts
235/70/15 rear

ESPO 6 leaf 340 springs.

Still need to raise front end a bit. Torsion bars haven’t been adjusted yet.


FF121CE5-B390-4CFC-8602-0D3101E872D7.jpeg


There’s now way I’d install these bars with LCAs drooping all the way down.

Previous stance. With dropping LCAs. Adjusters all the way out.

5559685A-8EDF-4A35-A09C-D3CE26D530DA.jpeg
 
James walked me through it over the phone.

For stock ride height follow the FSM, have the LCA all the way down.

For a lowered stance have the bars up slightly. I ordered the removal tool, which will be here tomorrow. Gonna get back at it, tomorrow night.

Love the stance in the first pic. That's what I'm going for. I have same setup, except for 14" wheels.
 
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