PST 1.03 Bars

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I am starting to put together my front end and I am wondering if these bars are in correctly. I realize they can go in more than one way.

I installed both bars with the R and L in the bottom.

Here are a fee pics, the control arms and the strut rods are finger tight.

Wow, the car is dusty underneath.


ATTACHfull]1715297471[/ATTACH]

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R is right; L is left
Some bars have different clocking between the front and rear hexes, and cannot be installed on the wrong side, without a lot of difficulty. Your second-last pic appears to show the Rightside bar installed on the driver's side which is the left side. If you can adjust the ride height into the ballpark with the preload screws, then IDK if it matters. But I would still install them L on the left, R on the right, cuz IDK any better,lol.

Nope, I looked again and it looks like you got them installed correctly, sorry, I seem to have been confused

BTW, those sockets have specific grease requirements.
Make sure the strutrod-system is correct for the year of the K-member, and that the front is assembled correctly. There is a current thread on that.
my PST Strud rod Bushing Fell off the car! *PICS*
 
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looks like they need to go in further so you can get the clip in.
 
AJ/FormS said:
R is right; L is left
Some bars have different clocking between the front and rear hexes, and cannot be installed on the wrong side, without a lot of difficulty. Your second-last pic appears to show the Rightside bar installed on the driver's side which is the left side. If you can adjust the ride height into the ballpark with the preload screws, then IDK if it matters. But I would still install them L on the left, R on the right, cuz IDK any better,lol.

Nope, I looked again and it looks like you got them installed correctly, sorry, I seem to have been confused

BTW, those sockets have specific grease requirements.
Make sure the strutrod-system is correct for the year of the K-member, and that the front is assembled correctly. There is a current thread on that.
my PST Strud rod Bushing Fell off the car! *PICS*
Click to expand...

Yes I got them in L and R, correctly, I was more worried about the "clocking" I was playing around with them and you could install the bar with the "R" towards the top of the socket, where as I have them on the bottom.

It isn't the original K, but still the same for th year of the car, I saw that thread and am going to follow the Moog instructions on the strut rod washer.
 
@72bluNblu Does my clocking look ok to you?

Everything is just finger tight (Upper and LCA, strud rods and the torsion bars need the clips put in still) just want to be sure befoe putting the spindles on and tighten everything.
 
Way back when I put my stocks bars back in my '69 the UCA was on the stop mount with the bump stop removed. It was snug but not difficult to get in. Maybe measure your spindle height and add in your bumper height against where you're at now. One flat on the hex will be a bunch.
 
Thanks, my situation is a little different because my suspension is all apart. I think the clocking looks right, but I want to be sure before I continue.
 
I put the PST 1.03 bars in my Duster last winter. I’ll snap a picture when I get home tonight. Luckily it is already up in the air.
Those headers look nice; what brand?
 
I just put the same ones in a couple weeks ago.

The LCAs need to be about level when you install the bars. You really only have two positions it can be “clocked”. If you clock it using the old factory shop Manual your front end will be riding sky high. Your LCAs are hanging too low from what I can tell. Maybe 72bluNblu will chime in.

Looks okay the way you have it. Where the ‘R’ or ‘L’ sits doesn’t make a difference.

03952807-FE46-4ACE-9F6B-53FE714EB6AC.jpeg
 
daves66valiant said:
I just put the same ones in a couple weeks ago.

The LCAs need to be about level when you install the bars. You really only have two positions it can be “clocked”. If you clock it using the old factory shop Manual your front end will be riding sky high. Your LCAs are hanging too low from what I can tell. Maybe 72bluNblu will chime in.

Looks okay the way you have it. Where the ‘R’ or ‘L’ sits doesn’t make a difference.

View attachment 1715298361
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Ok thank you. So, I should go ahead and rotate the bar until the flat hex hits the next slot and then bring the lca up to meet it?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Ok thank you. So, I should go ahead and rotate the bar until the flat hex hits the next slot and then bring the lca up to meet it?
Click to expand...
I'm trying to follow along here. You need to assemble the lower arm with the suspension unloaded. (pointing downward) If you go to the next notch, the bar won't be loaded when it is assembled. I think that's what you're asking. You Have to unload the suspension to remove the bar and it has to be unloaded when you re-assemble.
 
toolmanmike said:
I'm trying to follow along here. You need to assemble the lower arm with the suspension unloaded. (pointing downward) If you go to the next notch, the bar won't be loaded when it is assembled. I think that's what you're asking. You Have to unload the suspension to remove the bar and it has to be unloaded when you re-assemble.
Click to expand...
Not with these bigger bars they have a built in offset and clock differently than the originals. If you install with the LCA pointing all the way down you’ll be driving a gasser with the front end all jacked up.

I just installed these. So I’m well aware of the issue from the OP. Maybe call a tech at PST.

I believe some use shorter bumps stops as well.

There are other posts here on FABO entailing the same issue
 
daves66valiant said:
Not with these bigger bars they have a built in offset and clock differently than the originals. If you install with the LCA pointing all the way down you’ll be driving a gasser with the front end all jacked up.

I just installed these. So I’m well aware of the issue from the OP. Maybe call a tech at PST.

I believe some use shorter bumps stops as well.

There are other posts here on FABO entailing the same issue
Click to expand...

Thanks, maybe I'm over thinking it. The pics I posted are with the torsion bars installed, along with the lca and strut rods. However everything is loose.

My question is, does the lca (with bar installed) look to be in the proper location (clocking) or does it need to go higher?
 
Higher from what I see. Your adjuster arm should be as far down as it can go too. I can take pic of mine later
 
I put a bunch in the crossmember. The end that goes in the LCA only needs a small amount on the hex. I’m able to slide my bars out fairly easy. Make sure you don’t have the LCA tightened down all the way either.

Make sure you push the pivot all the way down until it touches the adjuster block too.
 
daves66valiant said:
I put a bunch in the crossmember. The end that goes in the LCA only needs a small amount on the hex. I’m able to slide my bars out fairly easy. Make sure you don’t have the LCA tightened down all the way either.

Make sure you push the pivot all the way down until it touches the adjuster block too.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks again. I'll get back after it this week.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Will do. Thanks again. I'll get back after it this week.
Click to expand...

That looks just like mine did when I put them in.
If you move them one hex flat either way it will get real obvious that it cant be like that.
BTW, PST's bars are no longer clocked different because soooo many people had issue's with them being to low once installed, even though they had their adjusters tightened up all the way.
 
TrailBeast said:
That looks just like mine did when I put them in.
If you move them one hex flat either way it will get real obvious that it cant be like that.
BTW, PST's bars are no longer clocked different because soooo many people had issue's with them being to low once installed, even though they had their adjusters tightened up all the way.
Click to expand...

So does that mean that can't be rotated in the sockets? Meaning they can't go in any other way?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
So does that mean that can't be rotated in the sockets? Meaning they can't go in any other way?
Click to expand...

From what I saw putting mine in that is exactly the case.
AND when I did put mine in the lower arms were in that same position as yours.
 
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