Pulled Cluster Wont Start.

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MeucciGarage

MeucciGarage

Mopars Unlimited Seattle
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Ok guys i need some help but before i start i wanna say that im 18 and still learning so bare with some possible stupid questions

Anyways..

I pulled the gauge cluster out of my 76 Plymouth Duster to replace my headlight switch. after replacing the switch and plugging everything back in the way i took it apart and making sure everything was plugged in all the way i discovered that my electronics all worked except for one taillight (pretty sure its just a bad bulb open to advice on that if you have it tho) but as soon as i turn the key farther to start the car everything dies. all electrical turns off and it doesn't crank at all. i charged the battery re checked the wires and all seemed fine. i am truly lost and wiring is a weak spot of mine. if anybody has pictures of how each wire goes in (like that big gray round one) that i can double check with or any tips on how to fix whatever i accidentally messed up id greatly appreciate it.
 

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You sure you checked EVERYTHING ??? maybe bumped something loose when working in that area ? I would take a close look at the ignition switch harness / connector ...
 
It's probably the wires on the ammeter. If you tighten them too much, it could damage it. You can jumper them together and then try to start it. It's usually best to do away with the ammeter anyway due to all the current the car uses flows through it with the exception of the starter. The easy way to bypass it is to put both wires on the same terminal.

It could also be a loose connection, did you lower the steering column? You might want to check the plugs coming from the steering column.
 
OKDart said:
It's probably the wires on the ammeter. If you tighten them too much, it could damage it. You can jumper them together and then try to start it. It's usually best to do away with the ammeter anyway due to all the current the car uses flows through it with the exception of the starter. The easy way to bypass it is to put both wires on the same terminal.

It could also be a loose connection, did you lower the steering column? You might want to check the plugs coming from the steering column.
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i did lower the column but i checked those plugs and they were good.
 
65-440 said:
You sure you checked EVERYTHING ??? maybe bumped something loose when working in that area ? I would take a close look at the ignition switch harness / connector ...
Click to expand...

im pretty sure i double checked everything im going to look over it again with a calmer state of mind tomorrow. where is the ignition switch harness/connector exactly?
 
Did you check all the fuses .....namely the fusable link on the firewall.

Was the battery disconnected when you pulled the cluster. ....I hope it was
 
MeucciGarage said:
im pretty sure i double checked everything im going to look over it again with a calmer state of mind tomorrow. where is the ignition switch harness/connector exactly?
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Should be a flat wide connector around steering column. Follow the wires coming out of
the top part of the column, should be easy to find ...
 
Make sure it is in park, you may have bumped the shifter when removing the cluster.
 
Fix the battery terminal(s). I'm sure you removed 1 or both before servicing. You can get enough current though a failed battery connection to run everything except the starter. The draw of the starter stops everything else.
 
The lights go out in IG2 during cranking ,by design. Some Mopar Ig switches have 2 connectors on them. It sounds to me like the IG2 terminal came off. It controls the start relay and the ignition start-system.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The lights go out in IG2 during cranking ,by design. Some Mopar Ig switches have 2 connectors on them. It sounds to me like the IG2 terminal came off. It controls the start relay and the ignition start-system.
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ok i will have to look at that thank you.
 
RedFish said:
Fix the battery terminal(s). I'm sure you removed 1 or both before servicing. You can get enough current though a failed battery connection to run everything except the starter. The draw of the starter stops everything else.
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i disconnected the positive wire only. and tightly reconnected but i will have to go back and clean the post and cable for a better connection but if it was that couldnt that have been an issue before or no?
 
I would also have to think you forgot to tighten the large black and/or red wires on the back of the amp meter.
What you are describing is exactly what a loose battery terminal does when the starter is activated. (doesn't mean it's at the battery though)
What you have is something loose, so it gets a connection until a load is put on it. Then it burns away the small area of slight contact, and all your power goes off.

Be positive about a good engine ground also, as they can do exactly the same thing.

The "wiggle test" should help you here.
While everything is dead, wiggle the harness wires around the fuse block and amp meter and see if everything comes back on, and when/where.

That's my interpretation of your description anyway. :) (which was pretty good by the way)
 
MeucciGarage said:
i disconnected the positive wire only. and tightly reconnected but i will have to go back and clean the post and cable for a better connection but if it was that couldnt that have been an issue before or no?
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THIS ^^^^ happens all the time on my 5th Ave. Corrosion will build up and everything will seem like it works until you hit the key to start. Take both pos and neg off clean everything up with a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush) and either put some dielectric grease or regular grease on the terminals. Hopefully that fixes your problem.
 
charger426 said:
THIS ^^^^ happens all the time on my 5th Ave. Corrosion will build up and everything will seem like it works until you hit the key to start. Take both pos and neg off clean everything up with a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush) and either put some dielectric grease or regular grease on the terminals. Hopefully that fixes your problem.
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hahahahahahaha so i went to clean my battery cables andmy positive had a crack in it discovered then while cleaning it it just snapped off so looks like ill need a new one of those before anymore work gets done :finga::wack::violent1::eek:ops:
 
MeucciGarage said:
hahahahahahaha so i went to clean my battery cables andmy positive had a crack in it discovered then while cleaning it it just snapped off so looks like ill need a new one of those before anymore work gets done
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That will do it.
 
when i was cleaning my battery post with my special battery cleaning tool and it seemed it was scratching the battery post vs cleaning it. is this regular and its just that corroded by chance or what?
 
MeucciGarage said:
when i was cleaning my battery post with my special battery cleaning tool and it seemed it was scratching the battery post vs cleaning it. is this regular and its just that corroded by chance or what?
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Batteries are very corrosive. Be careful about getting battery acid on your clothes and it can sting if you get it in your eyes.

Baking soda in water is the best cleaner and corrosion remover.

Aftet you get new cables unstalled , parts stores have some red gel spray you can spray over the terminals. ... helps with corrosion big time
 
RaniDart70 said:
Batteries are very corrosive. Be careful about getting battery acid on your clothes and it can sting if you get it in your eyes.

Baking soda in water is the best cleaner and corrosion remover.

Aftet you get new cables unstalled , parts stores have some red gel spray you can spray over the terminals. ... helps with corrosion big time
Click to expand...

how would i clean the post with baking soda? just pour it on?
 
MeucciGarage said:
how would i clean the post with baking soda? just pour it on?
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dip a parts cleaning brush in the solution as well as pour some on. Doing that regularly saves your battery tray and surrounding area over time.

when the solution hits the acid it will fizz up pretty cool ....cheap entertainment if you have a boring life like me :D
 
I always mix baking soda and water in a cup and then stick the end of the cable down into it until the blue bubbles quit fizzing up. You can use the cable end to stir the solution up every once in a while. Pour the solution over the top of the battery when you're done, cleaning the terminals and flush the whole thing with fresh water til it's clean. I had a negative battery cable once that looked perfectly good on the outside, but the whole wire was corroded inside where you couldn't see.

Also check the grounds on your steering column that you dropped. There should be a ground wire with a flat washer on both ends that grounds the steering column to the dash frame. Check both ends for tightness.
 
BrianT said:
Also check the grounds on your steering column that you dropped. There should be a ground wire with a flat washer on both ends that grounds the steering column to the dash frame. Check both ends for tightness.
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That little ground jumper was added when the sliding blocks in the column mount changed from metal to plastic. It effects nothing more than the horn button and lamps mounted in the column.
Some of the replacement battery cable ends are well made. many are junk.
If you're going to use them, pay a little more for quality.
 
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