Pulling the engine for new freeze plugs

-
zhandfull

zhandfull

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
2,987
Reaction score
102
Location
Rancho Cucamonga
Might remember my ugly 66 (thats just her nickname)

Well it's been parked since 1982. I have it running and stoping now but it loses water out of about three freeze plugs pretty bad and one is behind the flywheel. Going to pull the motor to replace the freeze plugs. Then pull the pan replace rear main seal and check bearings. Car runs pretty good thinking the mileage may even be just under 100,000. Should have a better ideal of condition when pulling pan.

I know I'm going to need a clutch and thinking about upgrading to the 10". I think it was direct replacement with no modifications. Any tips on who has the best clutch/price? Seems like it was ebay Just don't want to order the wrong one.
 

Attachments

  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 024.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 425
  • Formula%20S%2066%20Barracuda%20058.jpg
    71 KB · Views: 416
Good lookin ride,z.I worked at a bunch of parts houses.The least warranty comebacks I dealt with was LUK clutches,out of MI.Cheapest place I saw them was called Fast Undercar chassis parts.Mostly down in L.A area,they used to have a good product for the buck.
 
zhandfull said:
Might remember my ugly 66 (thats just her nickname)

Well it's been parked since 1982. I have it running and stoping now but it loses water out of about three freeze plugs pretty bad and one is behind the flywheel. Going to pull the motor to replace the freeze plugs. Then pull the pan replace rear main seal and check bearings. Car runs pretty good thinking the mileage may even be just under 100,000. Should have a better ideal of condition when pulling pan.

I know I'm going to need a clutch and thinking about upgrading to the 10". I think it was direct replacement with no modifications. Any tips on who has the best price? Seems like it was ebay Just don't want to order the wrong one.
Click to expand...

Be sure to use the brass freeze plugs when you replace them. I think the complete kit was about $13.00 plus tax.
 
Abodybomber said:
Good lookin ride,z.I worked at a bunch of parts houses.The least warranty comebacks I dealt with was LUK clutches,out of MI.Cheapest place I saw them was called Fast Undercar chassis parts.Mostly down in L.A area,they used to have a good product for the buck.
Click to expand...

I will check that out. I also found these on ebay.

BRAND: ALTO (Made in USA)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-O...ries&fits=Model:Barracuda&hash=item4aa9ed4f58

or Part Brand: BRUTE

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRUT...its=Make:Dodge|Model:A100&hash=item231408fd14

or Part Brand: ACDELCO

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACDE...its=Make:Dodge|Model:A100&hash=item45fc833ac7

Anybody ever use any of them on early Barracuda with 9.5" factory clutch?
 
I just have a local clutch rebuilder supply a van slant 6 clutch for mine. It's 10 1/4" and bolts right on to the stock flywheel. You have to use allen head bolts for the pressure plate however for extra clearence.
 
Had to laugh at your post 'cause my 318's freeze plug behind the flywheel is leaking a bit too. But i have no excuse; i forgot to replace them before i dropped the motor in recently...

To answer your question, i currently have the 9.5" factory setup in my 65 and i 'upgraded' to a 10" clutch without a problem. I believe the one i used was for a later model truck. Either way, i believe that the ones you listed should be ok and i've put on ~1000 miles on the setup without any issues. I bought mine from NAPA and had the old one to compare with. Believe i posted the part number in a old post ; i'll search for it...
 
I upgraded mine to a 10" too. I got mine from Brewer Performance. I ordered online from Phoenix Friction and although it was cheap and looked good I never could get it adjusted right and the throw out bearing rode against the pressure plate fingers and ruined both. The Brewers clutch worked perfect from the get go.

Flush the core sand from the water jackets before you install your new plugs. It's shocking how much sand and sludge will collect in the bottom of the water jackets. toolman
 
toolmanmike said:
I upgraded mine to a 10" too. I got mine from Brewer Performance. I ordered online from Phoenix Friction and although it was cheap and looked good I never could get it adjusted right and the throw out bearing rode against the pressure plate fingers and ruined both. The Brewers clutch worked perfect from the get go.

Flush the core sand from the water jackets before you install your new plugs. It's shocking how much sand and sludge will collect in the bottom of the water jackets. toolman
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clutch tip.

Your right about the sand and crap. Had lots on the floor. Just about every freeze plug was bad. Knocked them all out scraped and flushed, looking pretty good now.

Tomorrow I'll get it degreased and the oil pan off for inspection. Sure hope this doesn't turn in to a rebuild. Don't need that right now. Looks like the heads were redone at some point years ago.
 

Attachments

  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 028.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 369
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 029.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 372
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 034.jpg
    80.4 KB · Views: 366
When you're finished, I have another one for you to do! Just remember to put your master cylinder back on before the test drive! :)
 
Nice 66!
Those things are not fun! Back in high school I changed all the side ones in my charger with the engine in the car. Boy did that suck!!

Only down fall to the brass ones is that paint will not stick to them. Tends to fall off after a while. I have wondered if sand blasting the outside of a set of brass plugs would help paint stick to them?
 
You have to clean them real good first, then a good self-etching primer before the finish coat.
 
604 said:
Nice 66!
Those things are not fun! Back in high school I changed all the side ones in my charger with the engine in the car. Boy did that suck!!

Only down fall to the brass ones is that paint will not stick to them. Tends to fall off after a while. I have wondered if sand blasting the outside of a set of brass plugs would help paint stick to them?
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem keeping paint on them. Clean them and use a good quality primer before painting.
 
Well here we are today with my freeze plug job.
 

Attachments

  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 047.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 314
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 046.jpg
    81.6 KB · Views: 307
You see anything wrong with the rod in these pictures.
 

Attachments

  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 038.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 314
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 035.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 330
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 036.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 322
  • 1966 Mauve Formula S 037.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 337
The cylinder bores don't look scuffed, from 6 ft away. Hope you can just hone them and re-use your Hi-Po pistons. A set of Egge pistons is ~$400. I don't know about replacement rods. At least your rods didn't break in the middle and take out the block. Good you tore it down.
 
Wow! That was good timing on your part! I would not be that lucky. I would find that about the time it is sticking out the side of the block. LOL
 
I think I have a spare set of those rods laying around. I can check if you need them
 
Yea not sure what to do now.

Cylinders don't look to bad. I would like to use existing pistons but it does have a little ridge at top of cylinder. Probably end up boring but I will check with the local shop about clearances first. Might be able to get away with just a another rod, new bearings, and rering. I have another 273 for rod parts but I not sure if they all have floating piston pins like the commando engine does.

The thing that started the complete disassembly was I couldn't get the rope rear main seal out. Couldn't pull it out or push it out even with the main caps loose and lifting the crank a little.

Kind of weird the crack on the rod. Doesn't look like it was ready to break. Makes my wonder if the casting was bad from 1966
 
It might have been bad since new. I checked and have a complete set of the floating pin rods if you end up needing them
 
I hate cleaning parts. This one seems especially difficult. Think the engine setting for such a long time and the fact cleaners just aren't that good anymore might have something to do with it.
 
Citrus Strip! It is a spray can of tree hugger safe paint stripper. But this stuff stripes the baked on black stuff out of the inside of valve covers like nothing else! Really good stuff!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top