Putting A '77 Slant In A '64 Valiant?

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Chuck Valiant

Chuck Valiant

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I've been in the market for a new to me /6 since my started smoking. After looking for six months I finally found one and it's a Super Six!

Took a look at the engine today and it will be delivered tomorrow. It is from a '77 Aspen station wagon, I noticed that the motor mounts are completely different as is the k-frame, it has electronic ignition, and a 5/8's heater hose. I'm guessing it is a beefier alternator and it might have a different oil pan and pickup.

I'm gonna rebuild this engine in my garage before I attempt to put it in my Valiant. As I tell the people that ask me questions while I'm wrenching on my car "Yo no soy mechanico." In fact I'm probably the worst mechanic in the world. That being said I'm not afraid, this car wouldn't even start when I first got it. I've read every article at slantsix.org, I own a service manual and have found some others on the web (a 1977 super six one would be great.)

I tried looking for links and threads from people attempting the same and have yet to find something, if you could help that would be great?

I plan on buying a gasket kit and as many new parts as feasible. There is also a building a Slant Six engine book on eBay that I might get.

It is a automatic engine going into a automatic car. I purchased the throttle cable and kickdown as well. I believe the engine and transmission that is in my Valiant are from 1969 so I don't think I'm gonna need a bushing but we'll see.

So again any wisdom would be great, any questions too. I hope to keep posting as I do this build.

-Joe
 

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I was amazed to find one in San Diego, I've heard they are rare in California. The junkyard has had this one for a while, they just listed it wrong on craigslist (good for me, bad for everyone else,) so none of my searches found it. A coworker found the listing when he was searching El Camino parts. Haha random

Do you think a later oil pan will work on a early K-frame?

P.S. correction: "yo soy no mechanico." I'm bad at spanish too (not to mention english.)
 
Your car is a 64 with an automatic, correct? Do you still have the PB shifter? If you do chances are it is a 64 trans not a 69 trans, and you will need the bushing. The engine will go into the car with the later oil pan, but the front of the pan will rub on the "K" member. You really should use the 64 pan and pickup, along with the 64 engine brackets. You will also have to modify the throttle linkage and kickdown linkage to use the super six setup in a 64 "A" body. Keep the 77 electronic distributer and add an electronic ig system (mopar or HEI).

PS: the reason the super six is rare in Ca. is they could not be sold new in Ca, as they did not meet the emmision specs.
 
Thanks Charrlie! I've got a push button tranny and a '69 engine, that's why I think I've either have the bushing or a later tranny already. I was planing on using the early motor mounts, now I know I need the early oil pan and pick up too. I've found quite a few on craigslist. I definitely want to keep the electronic ignition and I have found some wiring diagrams to help.

When you say "modify the throttle linkage and kickdown linkage" what do you mean? I believe I have purchased the correct throttle linkage and kickdown for this conversion from the junked Aspen, but I know I can be wrong.

What else do I need?
 
The 64 uses the "twisty" throttle linkage, and the kickdown to the trans is connected to lever on the twist rod near the firewall. The super six carb uses a cable linkage, and the kickdown connects to the manifold/carb. You will need to remove the "twisty" linkage, and convert to a cable linkage and pedal (64-66 V-8 will work), or you can get a "hanging" pedal and cable assy from a later car, which will work with minor mods (I have even used a pedal/cable from a "K" car).
The 64 kickdown linkage is removed, and the linkage from the super six is used as is, but needs to be complete, including the lever on the trans.
 
I found a super for my 68 that a guy had in Hemet, CA. It came out of a 70 Dart along with the tranny for free. i paid a couple benny's total for the motor and he threw in a newer oil pan and the tranny. Going through the motor in my garage on an engine stand. Right now i am priming the block black to get it ready for it's chrysler red paint job with Silver accessories and black brackets. Fun doing it. but here lately it's been sweltering hot in my garage. So after this weekend, I should be able to spend more time on it.
 
Vali68 said:
Fun doing it. but here lately it's been sweltering hot in my garage. So after this weekend, I should be able to spend more time on it.
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I can't wait to get started but I have to wait for the sun to go down before I go in my garage.

Charrlie_S said:
You will need to remove the "twisty" linkage, and convert to a cable linkage and pedal (64-66 V-8 will work), or you can get a "hanging" pedal and cable assy from a later car, which will work with minor mods (I have even used a pedal/cable from a "K" car).
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Thanks Charrlie I should have read the Super Six article again to remind myself.

They delivered the engine today and forgot to bring the air cleaner. I called the manager and told him about it and that I needed some more parts. He told me to come by and get whatever I needed. Hopefully the Aspen has what I need.

How do you guys go about putting the engine on a stand?
 

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You don't have to, but on the slant 6, you want a lower center of gravity. I will send you a picture of mine mounted on the stand. most V8's they line up the center of the engine stand mount with the crankshaft. on the slant 6, you want the center to line up witht e camshaft.
 

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Thanks Vali68. I went ahead and put the plate on it trying to get the center of gravity as low as I could. Then I lifted the stand onto the plate and lowered my hoist to let the stand sit firm on the ground and straightened the slant.

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I'm going to leave the cherry picker on till I take off the manifold and other parts so the motor's weight isn't so lopsided on my cheep borrowed stand.
 
At least your stand has 4 wheels. I'm not shy about showing my FU's.

I had a M-B diesel engine on a cheap 3-wheel stand, and it fell over when it sprung back while I was trying to remove the damper bolt. Fortunately, I moved fast. Didn't hurt the engine nor my 65 Newport that was near it. Note that I had aligned the stand w/ the crankshaft, which made it top-heavy. After that, I worked with the engine upside-down, which was very stable. Next time, I'll buy a better stand. Safety beats cheap.
 

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BillGrissom said:
At least your stand has 4 wheels. I'm not shy about showing my FU's.

I had a M-B diesel engine on a cheap 3-wheel stand, and it fell over when it sprung back while I was trying to remove the damper bolt. Fortunately, I moved fast. Didn't hurt the engine nor my 65 Newport that was near it. Note that I had aligned the stand w/ the crankshaft, which made it top-heavy. After that, I worked with the engine upside-down, which was very stable. Next time, I'll buy a better stand. Safety beats cheap.
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Hate it when that happens....By any chance were you near it when it went over?
 
Whoa that is one of my new fears. I was pulling the bolts on the water pump and it was getting a little bouncy when I had to use a breaker bar on one of the bolts.

Speaking of water pumps, has anyone ran into any trouble separating the pump from the engine?

The first thing I did on my old slant 6 was change the water pump and it was easy. I’ve reread the manual and it’s pretty cut and dry on the subject.

I have all of the bolts off and it moves around a lot, I just can’t get any separation at all.

Thanks
Joe
 
Charrlie_S said:
The 64 uses the "twisty" throttle linkage, and the kickdown to the trans is connected to lever on the twist rod near the firewall.
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If this is what you have I am interested in buying the kickdown stuff that attaches to the rotating rod (I have everything from the gas pedal to the carb with the exception of the kickdown stuff).
 
^I think a PM would work better.

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As for the water pump I had to yank on it pretty hard to get it out.

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Does anyone have a better way then Kroil and Vicegrips to pull the intake/exhaust studs?

I've soaked them for 2 days and 6 of them refuse to budge. the other ones were no cake walk.

-Joe
 
By studs do you mean the bolts that hold them on? I just used WD40 and a 3/8 drive (can use a 1/2 drive) with an extension and/or more added on to get the bolts off the intake&exhaust manifolds.
 
gwmax65 said:
By studs do you mean the bolts that hold them on? I just used WD40 and a 3/8 drive (can use a 1/2 drive) with an extension and/or more added on to get the bolts off the intake&exhaust manifolds.
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Every Slant Six ever built used studs to affix the manifolds to the head. Over the years some people switched them over to bolts for some reason.

I have the nuts off, the manifolds off, now I'm trying to get the studs out of the head. I'm going to barrow a torch from a friend so maybe I'll have them out by tomorrow.
 

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The motor i had, all I did was spray some WD40 on them. let them sit a minute and use my air wrench and a socket to get them off. If you are unscrewing them by hand, you may have a bigger chance of stripping the bolt that holds them to the studs if you aren't right on the bolt. Then they can be a pain to get off.
 
yeah. I know it is hard to picture when the motor I have is upside down now. But you can get the idea right? I took everything down to the block and the head. I left the oil pan on though to catch some of the crude(if any) that was left in the motor. Once i turned this block over and removed the oil pan, there was a lot of crap in there. Walls look good. pistons look good. Bearing feel good. Just ready for cleanup and paint now.
If you don't feel confident that you have it balanced on the stand, don't attempt to rotate the motor. other wise it may take you with it. I had a neighbor come over and help me. I turned the block while he turned the handle on the stand. Then he put the pin in for me so we could hold it in place. I wouldn't attempt to rotate mine without someone being there.
 
Sorry if I missed something, but what are your intentions by taking the intake and exhaust studs off?
 
U can leave the studs on the head and just scrape the gasket around it.

Or just use two nuts to get them out. Put two nuts on the stud and tighten them to each other using two wrenches. Hold the lower nut with one wrench and tighten the upper one real tightly down onto the lower nut. Then put your wrench on the lower one and remove the stud. The upper nut should not spin when u turn the lower nut. And the studs will come out.
 
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