Putting A '77 Slant In A '64 Valiant?

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gwmax65 said:
Sorry if I missed something, but what are your intentions by taking the intake and exhaust studs off?
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I’m rebuilding the motor and I want to change out everything that I can. The manifolds studs are 35 years old, each one I’ve pulled is rusted on the end and the threads don’t look to healthy. Plus I would believe it would be easier for my machinist to work on the head without 13 little pricks getting in the way. Haha


crvtec90 said:
Or just use two nuts to get them out. Put two nuts on the stud and tighten them to each other using two wrenches. Hold the lower nut with one wrench and tighten the upper one real tightly down onto the lower nut. Then put your wrench on the lower one and remove the stud. The upper nut should not spin when u turn the lower nut. And the studs will come out.
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Thanks for the tip crvtec90. I gave it a shot but I guess I couldn’t get the nuts to smash together tight enough, I think my open end wrench isn’t long enough.

I took a torch to it and was able to get 5 of the last 6 out but the last one just won’t budge. I was squeezing the vice grip on so tight I was getting cramps in my neck muscles. Haha

I know I could break it off drill and tap it but that feels like quitting.

Has anyone had experience with a stud extractor on 7/16th stud?
 

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You shouldn't have to remove the studs. Just the nuts holding it on. Do a visual of the nuts and the washers because there will be two different varieties taken off. One is like a triangle shape and the other washer is roundish. i would follow the advice of crvtec90 if you need to remove the studs. But you shouldn't have to remove them unless they broke off or stipped. The nuts and washer on mine came off with just a bit of WD40 and my air wrench. no worries.
 
be careful with rotating that motor. It looks like it maybe top heavy. On that type of stand, it could fall right over and take you with it!!!!. Get the center of gravity on the stand to line up with the camshaft instead of the crankshaft.. Mine was like this when i first had it mounted on a 4 legged stand and I could easily tip it over. So I lowered it like some people told me on this site and now it feels safer and i can rotate the motor with no worries. But I'm always trying to be careful with it anyways. Don't need 500 pounds to fall on my foot or on my garage floor.
 
head-manual.jpg


I noticed from this picture that there is a coolant passage near the last stud I’m trying to get out.

Do you think I could get the red nozzle on my Kroil can through the coolant passage hole to the back end of the stud and soak the threads from the inside?
 
^The answer is no

Now I'm having trouble getting the timing cover off. There seems to be two nipple studs that it is hanging up on.

I've got every bolt out even the oil pan bolts.

I know with experience I would just yank at it till it's out. Being that it is my first time I'm all timid and nervous. Haha
 
Did you try the old tighten it a little bit before loosening it trick?

Also put a nut on the end of it and whack it with a hammer to try and break the rust inside there. Then go back and try your kroil and then heat treatments if that doesn't work.
 
Thanks for the tips, I have since moved on.
Now I’m trying to find a machinist that I can trust in the San Diego area. No one seems to be familiar with what you can do with a /6, and they don’t seem too excited about the opportunity to try.
 
If you ever feel like taking a road trip, talk to Doug Dutra up in the SF Bay area. Probably the best slant builder in the world.
 
I would be honored if Mr. Dutra would work on my slant. I’m going to email him about buying one of his oil pump gears and maybe see if he knows of a good machinist in the San Diego area.
 
I'd be interested n hearing about /6 folks in the san diego area also. I am trying to restore my 63 valiant convertible and am having some issue I cant figure out on my own and no one here seems to have much experience with these engines.
 
skelengerj said:
I'd be interested n hearing about /6 folks in the san diego area also. I am trying to restore my 63 valiant convertible and am having some issue I cant figure out on my own and no one here seems to have much experience with these engines.
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If you need info, why do you need someone in person? You can find almost anything you need here or on www.slantsix.org. As far as how the engine works, it is just like any engine from the 1960's - carburetor and points ignition. Are you planning to take it apart? Then it gets more specific. The engine itself didn't change much until they stopped making it in ~1984? Hydraulic lifters and electronic ignition were the biggest changes. Now if you have the rare, early aluminum block things get interesting.
 
Something I'd like to throw out there, your '77 slant stock horse is 100hp @4000RPM. In the later 60's (64-71) the HP is 145 @4000RPM. Check out this site: http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html (also lists the differences in HP, other, over the years)

I've gotten a '75 slant with a 904 trans for a couple hundred from a guy in Salt Lake UT. bout a year ago. It was incredibly filthily, and many things had to be done to it. I had my '65 Cuda sitting in my backyard for over 12 years and decided to finally do something to it. Rescued that Mopar from a crusher long ago, and have been fixing it up since last year. It only came with the 225 Slant Six (numbers matching to the car) no trans, no drive shaft, no back brakes, and other things. Initially the original (65) slant to the Cuda was locked up, and I didn't know better at the time that the 65 slant had 145 Horse stock vs the '75 slant I had been working on having only 95 Horse stock. They really screwed with the power on those engines due to emissions in the 70's and up... I evidently got the '65 slant freed up by popping the head off (and the word popping isn't to be anticipated as an easy thing to do), and pouring some ATF+4 into each of the cylinders to get them freed up. But I was already too far (financially for me) into the '75 slant project and decided to throw that in with the 904 bolted onto it into the '65 Cuda (that was fun...). I still have the '65 slant and I do have big plans for it in the future. What I'm getting at is, make sure you're going to do something good to that slant six engine of yours, and look into the head differences in years because I am sure there are some major differences to cutting off nearly 50 horse power in a 10 year difference towards 1975-77. Any who, hope to hear what happens with your Slanted Project!
 
The horsepower reduction had nothing to do with the internals of the engine.
It was due mostely to the method they used to measure the rating. The early engine were rated at "gross" horsepower, and sometime in the '70's (I don't remember what year) the rating system was change to "net" horsepower. And secondly to the emisions equipment external to the engine, such as different ignition curve, carb calibration, EGR, and catalitic converter, etc.
 
I called Mike at MJM and he told me that they only do OEM rebuilds. He did recommend two other places but they were unwilling to do this build. There is Rick’s in Lakeside, I talked to Mario over the phone and wasn’t too impressed. I’m thinking about going over there and looking the place over, I try to never go by first impressions. Hopefully I’ll be able to talk to the guy that actually does the work.
 
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