Putting head on slant six

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oldmodlover said:
Yup. Somebody somewhere in the past bent a couple or motor has been apart before and a couple were lost or whatever.
Look all to be same length but..... I think I'd get a matched set.
( and yes. I am a cheap s.o.b. so....)
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They are the same length and I’m trying to get this slant six back on the road for as cheap as possible to save money for a v8 swap this summer. So I think I’m going to give em a shot as is.
 
MadMaxCustoms said:
They are the same length and I’m trying to get this slant six back on the road for as cheap as possible to save money for a v8 swap this summer. So I think I’m going to give em a shot as is.
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Run um. It'll be fine. Before I swapped the 360 in my 65, it had a good runnin 225 in it. When I first got it, it had a dead skip. I did a compression test and it had a dead cylinder. I took the valve cover off and it had a bent pushrod. I took it out, beat it back straight with a hammer on a vise put it back in, adjusted the valves and drove it for two years before I pulled it. It ran fine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't see "crap" pushrods. I see three different types. Probably all the correct length, but if that was my engine and as cheap as push rods are, it would get a new matching set.
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I wouldn't want all those mismatched push rods in my motor so from my point of view they are crap. I guess if I was stuck out in the middle of nowhere and I could get going with them I'd use 'em but given a choice I'd call them crap and get others .
 
RustyRatRod said:
Run um. It'll be fine. Before I swapped the 360 in my 65, it had a good runnin 225 in it. When I first got it, it had a dead skip. I did a compression test and it had a dead cylinder. I took the valve cover off and it had a bent pushrod. I took it out, beat it back straight with a hammer on a vise put it back in, adjusted the valves and drove it for two years before I pulled it. It ran fine.
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That’s awesome. I feel like 225s want to run no matter what. On that note, a friend of mine had a 225 dart in high school. We were headed to work at a local mom and pop automotive shop (had a field full of Mopar cars behind it including a 69 charger 500 hidden under a blackberry bush) after school and we heard a loud bang sound. Followed by a knocking. We kept driving another 10 miles like that because we didn’t want to be late for work. We put it up on the lift and took a look under the engine and there was a baseball size hole in the side of the block! Piston had done some damage but it was still running.
 
valiantwagonguy said:
I wouldn't want all those mismatched push rods in my motor so from my point of view they are crap. I guess if I was stuck out in the middle of nowhere and I could get going with them I'd use 'em but given a choice I'd call them crap and get others .
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One mans trash is another mans treasure.
 
pishta said:
Those cylinders look fine (for me, oil them down and clean with scotch brite and get EVERYTHING out with a shop vac and then acetone on paper towels until they come out clean. everything else is drop in and bolt up. Adjust .013/.023 cold. Should get you close, check 'em again when hot for .010/.020
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is .013 the intake and .023 the exhaust for valve adjust?
 
MadMaxCustoms said:
is .013 the intake and .023 the exhaust for valve adjust?
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Those are "get it in the ballpark" cold settings. The final settings are 0.010" intake and 0.020" exhaust hot and running; see valve adjustment procedure. Also see tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.
 
Got her back together in order to fire her up. Going to put fresh oil in her tomorrow and see if we got fire in the hole. Still need to go through the carb and clean it out but figured I’d wait to see if the thing even fires up.

B137AF45-CEBD-4708-8C96-CBBEE7953781.jpeg


A79C4866-5857-444A-846C-43B3FBF8DDBF.jpeg
 
MadMaxCustoms said:
They are the same length and I’m trying to get this slant six back on the road for as cheap as possible to save money for a v8 swap this summer. So I think I’m going to give em a shot as is.
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At some point in this cars life, someone got into this engine and found it necessary to replace some pushrods. So they went to the local auto parts store and bought over the counter replacements. Coulda been decades ago. The balls and sockets don't quite match the factory originals. But so what? As long as they are the correct length and roll flat on a tabletop, the engine will never know the difference. He said he's looking for a few months service before replacing it with a v-8. It's not like this is an 8 second high rev SS car. It's a slant six lucky to see 4000 rpm!
I'm betting he'll get this thing running so well he'll forget about the v-8 anyway.
 
@slantsixdan did Mopar change pushrod ball size in early 60's from a small to a larger one? I remember seeing an old solid lifter 383 that had some small seat lifters that more recent pushrods rode up in, not the proper size. Nothing wrong with those pushrods, just some replacements....adjust them all the same intake .010/exhaust .020 hot
 
Might be faster to just weld in a piece of flat stock and drill a hole. I see you have been busy!!!!
 
So I have got it all back together. Bought a new battery, new starter relay, dash lights are on with key in on position, door buzzer buzzing and I go to turn the key and ...... nothing.

I jumped the starter with my battery and it’s cranking just fine. What should I do?

It’s not the battery because that’s new, it’s not the starter relay because that’s new, I doubt it is the starter because I jumped it with my battery and it seems to be working ok.

Any ideas?
 
Or the connector on switch fell off. When that happens i heat it up with a heat gun and push them back on.
 
Finally did it! She’s purring right along!! Took it for its first test drive ( about 10 mile trip). Parked it, went to turn it back on to move it a few feet and it fired up then died. Now I have no power.

multimeter is telling me I have 12.5v at battery, and at starter. Key in run position I have 0v in my ignition switch, 0v at ballast resistor.

Here is what’s new
Battery,Starter, starter relay, coil, distributor cap and rotor, NSS.

thoughts?
 
jump the ballast and see if it runs (in a pinch, you can pull the resistor of the wiper motor and get you home)
 
MadMaxCustoms said:
I’d still have power at my ignition switch if the ballast was bad, no?
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yes your right
the balast gets its power through the ignition.

so, the problem sits before that
fuse issue maybe?

bad ignition switch?

it ran and now it doesnt...maybe the bulkhead connector wiggled loose?
 
Yes I disconnected and reconnected bulk head connector. If the switch was bad wouldn’t I still have power from battery though at switch?
diymirage said:
yes your right
the balast gets its power through the ignition.

so, the problem sits before that
fuse issue maybe?

bad ignition switch?

it ran and now it doesnt...maybe the bulkhead connector wiggled loose?
Click to expand...
 
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