Question about buying Carter BBD for my 318 (unless I should look at something else)

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Yours

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What's the round gizmo under the carb flange on the dual-plane? Also something poking up the top carb hole?

Wait - I have a dual plane? The actual number is 2468960 - 7.
 
The wet gasket on the float bowl and black spark plugs indicate the problem could simply be a sunk/heavy float, causing it to run rich, also explains why mixture screws have no authority.
Find someone to repair the carb.
Good luck .
 
inertia said:
The wet gasket on the float bowl and black spark plugs indicate the problem could simply be a sunk/heavy float, causing it to run rich, also explains why mixture screws have no authority.
Find someone to repair the carb.
Good luck .
Click to expand...

I sanded the airhorn casting mating surface and I don't think it is seeping any gas now. The clip that holds the float hinge rod may have been interfering with the air horn seating fully against the body so I adjusted that also. The brass floats seem fine, no holes.

I think over time the tabs with the holes for the airhorn screws can bend under the force of the screws and cause the casting to not be flat.
 
OK dual plane the exhaust heat cross over passage, may be blocked. May take a while to warm cast iron manifold, till warms up unvaporized fuel is a possibillty.
 
67CBodyGuy said:
I sanded the airhorn casting mating surface and I don't think it is seeping any gas now. The clip that holds the float hinge rod may have been interfering with the air horn seating fully against the body so I adjusted that also. The brass floats seem fine, no holes.

I think over time the tabs with the holes for the airhorn screws can bend under the force of the screws and cause the casting to not be flat.
Click to expand...

The fuel level is generally well below that top gasket, and shouldn't get fuel near it unless seriously rocked/sloshed around in the bowl.
You observed that "round" thing on one of the carbs, That's a vent to open to air, not to seal gas in.
If it was a foam float, they get soggy and brass floats can leak a little fuel after time, both cause a high float level, and rich running.
You need to weigh or shake floats, jmo
 
And try not run any fuel that has ethanol as it will gum up over time.
 
I'm going to try this:

www.delphiautoparts.com

How to test the alcohol content of gasoline

Here’s a safe, fast and easy way to check the alcohol content of gasoline using a graduated cylinder.
www.delphiautoparts.com

Based on some web searching I've just done, I'm reading conflicting info about which gasoline brands and which octane has or doesn't have ethanol here in Ontario.

I was assuming any gas I buy anywhere, regardless of octane, has 10% enthanol. Maybe not?
 
Keep your original carb in case you need it for rebuild, pay the core charge if nec. till you get one that works .
Good luck .

www.forabodiesonly.com

Note about parts store rebuilt carbs

More than a dozen years ago, my parts guy with a 318 asked me if I would set up a carb for him, he had just put on, and wouldn't work right. It was running terrible, pulled top, first off, the metering rods were mismatched, one was bent 90* and totally missed the jet. I replaced it with a pair I...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
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67CBodyGuy said:
I'm going to try this:

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Based on some web searching I've just done, I'm reading conflicting info about which gasoline brands and which octane has or doesn't have ethanol here in Ontario.

I was assuming any gas I buy anywhere, regardless of octane, has 10% enthanol. Maybe not?
Click to expand...
Depends on which Province or State you’re in. Here in BC, Chevron has 94 octane which contains NO ethanol and it also has its own hose so you’re not getting drips of ethanol from a previous user who filled with 87, 89 or 91. I‘m not sure if Chevron is in Ontario but Shell is for sure.

Shell offers 93 Nitro but it’s not clear if it contains ethanol or not. If there isn’t a sticker stating ‘no ethanol’ then it likely has a small % of ethanol in it. And if uses the same hose as the lower grades, then for sure it has ethanol in it.
 
Here's the thing with these carbs. For me at least.

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You've got all these fiddly little parts and passages and you don't know (or I don't know) without a LOT of research what you should have, what works best, drill sizes, passage sizes, rod and jet sizes.

I wrote this down but I think the jets (or oriface? the little brass screw-in parts) are 120-299 S. Rod sizes are .036 / .026. In some carbs there's a little red gasket between them and the bowl, sometimes I don't see this gasket. What is correct?

Here are a couple other carbs I have. The one with the extra stuff on the top of the bowl I think is from my old '73 Satellite (with 318).

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The carb with the tag, the tag says:

6317SA
0433326 (the last 3 digits are stamped with a larger size for some reason).

And look at the differences in these ports. What's correct? What's best? Too many variables.

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127.jpg


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Throwing a new carb (even if unknown design and build quality) that is relatively inexpensive is for me a more practical way to go, to at least see if the engine can idle better, burn better.
 
Respectfully , you have the info nec to repair the carb in this thread.
Saying..... look at this, look at that, mosta that stuff has absolutely no bearing on the " long cranking after hot and shut off ".
You won't listen. You don't respond to direction, you just " look at this " crap .
I respect you wanting to do your own repairs, and till now, encouraged it.
Sorry, but I'm done .
Good luck .
 
" long cranking after hot and shut off ".

That's not the problem I have. I don't like how it idles, I think it idles too rich, plugs are sooty, I've played with the idle screws, best idle and vac are with screws about 1 turn out, maybe a bit less.

I wasn't looking for how to really do an r&r on the carb that's on the car now, I was looking for an opinion or experience if others have bought and used the various BBD clones that are available on ebay / amazon.
 
67CBodyGuy said:
" long cranking after hot and shut off ".

That's not the problem I have. I don't like how it idles, I think it idles too rich, plugs are sooty, I've played with the idle screws, best idle and vac are with screws about 1 turn out, maybe a bit less.

I wasn't looking for how to really do an r&r on the carb that's on the car now, I was looking for an opinion or experience if others have bought and used the various BBD clones that are available on ebay / amazon.
Click to expand...
Engine warm, choke fully open, all vacuum ports plugged. idle speed set at spec, idle mixture screws set to smooth idle (or maximum vacuum). It probably won't get any better than that. What's your base timing set at with everything I mentioned correct? Things that may cause poor idle that you can't adjust to make it better, loose timing chain, Worn cam lobes and lifter faces, valves not seating (worn guides, valve margins and seats), intake vacuum leaks, Power brake booster vacuum leaks, the list can go on and on.
 
67CBodyGuy said:
" long cranking after hot and shut off ".

That's not the problem I have. I don't like how it idles, I think it idles too rich, plugs are sooty, I've played with the idle screws, best idle and vac are with screws about 1 turn out, maybe a bit less.

I wasn't looking for how to really do an r&r on the carb that's on the car now, I was looking for an opinion or experience if others have bought and used the various BBD clones that are available on ebay / amazon.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't buy one of those carbs. I would rebuild the old one. If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself have someone do it that does.
 
He's going to argue with a fence post. He has been given tons of information and chooses to ignore it. I'm with inertia, I'm out and user blocked.
 
Sure glad I bolted on the Edelbrock 1406 and 2 to 4 bbl adapter to my completely stock '69 318 Satellite.

Dummped the gas leaking, poor idle, poor performance stock 2 bbl BBD.

The previous owner even had a fire extinguisher in the back seat as they were expecting a fire with that leaking stock carb.

Took the car for a test drive with the lady owner driving and it killed at every stop sign.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink.

All the facts here on this post, but when you don't know, you don't know.

Good luck learning.

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By the way i have a good running high top BBD and it is the least desirable carb of all the 2 bbl carbs I have tested on the run stand. It runs and idles good but that's about it, all the other carbs out perform it by a lot.

20230822_230842.jpg

New OEM 2 bbl Stromberg ^^^.

That is the fun, experimenting and see what works best.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
toolmanmike said:
Engine warm, choke fully open, all vacuum ports plugged. idle speed set at spec, idle mixture screws set to smooth idle (or maximum vacuum). It probably won't get any better than that. What's your base timing set at with everything I mentioned correct? Things that may cause poor idle that you can't adjust to make it better, loose timing chain, Worn cam lobes and lifter faces, valves not seating (worn guides, valve margins and seats), intake vacuum leaks, Power brake booster vacuum leaks, the list can go on and on.
Click to expand...
Cold compression test gives 150 - 160 PSI.
Engine warm, choke fully open, carb is on low speed cam screw. I can get 17 inches vac at 500 rpm but it's a not a smooth even idle, needle fluctuates about 1 inch (so maybe 17 to 18 bouncing vac reading). I can get 22 inches at about 1200 - 1400 rpm.

I'm measuring vac by disconnecting big line to the brake booster and using adapter to go straight to the guage. Only 2 other vac ports (distributor and choke) and they don't leak.

You're going to frown when I say I haven't timed it (timing gun not handy) but I would have set it ages ago to the best timing, probably 10 before TDC. If I advance it from where it is now, even just a little, rpm's go up a little, vac goes up to 18, but I get lots of pinging when driving. This is 87 octane stuff, probably some ethanol in there, maybe 10%.

Plugs are new (RN14YC) but are now sooty / black and only have about 15, 20 miles on them.

Have changed the coil (another old coil, but it meters out to spec) put in new points / condensor, new ballast resistor. Have measured the dwell, it's right on spec at 28 - 30 degrees. Wires are silicone 500 ohms/ft 20+ years old. I have swapped in a new set of wires (NGK 53420 also 500 ohms/ft) and a new cap (blue streak, brass contacts). None of that has evened out the idle, no perceptible change.

Does dual-plane intake make carb idle performance more critical? Idle performance of both barrels must be better matched to give smooth idle - and more importantly, no plug fouling?

>I wouldn't buy one of those carbs. I would rebuild the old one.
>If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself have someone do it that does.

Easier said than done. I doubt there's anyone within 200 miles of me that would take a crack at these carbs. And even if there was, how would I find them?
 
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BY those green lines that port for reading vacuum, if so bad idea pulses from 2 intake valves in rear only lower portion of dual plane intake. Does not measure all cylinders in dual plane manifold. Vacuum should be measureed in central loccation to both upper and lower planes, such as vacuum to choke pull off.

green line.jpg
 
If this is a dual-plane manifold, does that mean each barrel goes to 4 cylinders and each barrel is a separate isolated path (no contact between barrel openings) ?

Yes I see that it would be better to measure vac at a more central point, and choke pull-off is that point?
 
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