1970dartcustom
of the Moore clan
On an edelbrock performer 750, the choke needs to be hooked up... It needs to be an ignition switch activated 12 volt constant location...
Where is this?
Where is this?
QUestion about hooking up edelbrock carb... Wire to electric choke?
- Thread starter 1970dartcustom
- Start date
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I go to the input side of the ballast resistor with a piggy back connector.
It's usually the one with the two blue wires... Just remove the wires from both sides of the ballast resistor, turn the key to run position, then take a test light with one end clamped to a ground or battery negative (-), then use the poking side to test each of the ballast resistor wires. The side that makes it light up is the input side and is 12 volts...
The other side usually has brown wires and one goes to the coil, that only has 6 volts ---> no good....
Then hook the wires back to the ballast resistor...
65Val
Average Length Member
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Chrysler sometimes installed a timer in this circuit that through a resistor, gradually pulled the voltage down ,or in some cases had a little bi-metalic switch inside them, or both. These types of devices will help the choke coil last a lot longer.
1970dartcustom
of the Moore clan
My Dad says that Edelbrock says NO. Not coil, Not battery, Bot alternator, Nor ballast resistor, it has to have a fuse...
Can you point me in the proper direction considering this?
He says ignition activated constant 12 chokes are famous for shorting out n melting down... So ???
Ever if wired through something like a rear defrost timer module, it would cycle again at every ignition switch cycle. The very best method for long term/extended life would be a manually operated switch and timer, and relay,
as in complete rear defrost circuit.
as in complete rear defrost circuit.
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I've always hooked my electric chokes up to the input side of the ballast...
If you want it fused and not off the engine components, then go off the accessory feed from the fuse block and run a separate wire...
Just wired mine. Went into the input side of the balast resistor. Works slick. If you want I can take a pic
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
4years hooked to ballast and no meltdown.
I ran mine to the Blue wiper feed 12V at the bulkhead connector. The wiper switch has a beaker built into it. and this feed is ignition switched. I am always concerned about hooking anything to the main ballast circuit that supplies voltage to the coil or aftermarket ignition box!
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4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Red wire is choke wire
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I have seen the electric choke wire, factory-spliced, into the Blue wire, between the bulkhead and the ballast. And I have seen it to be correct per the wiring diagram.
That blue wire in pre 70 models was barely adequate for the points and charging system it originally supplied. This electric choke is in the same class as those other goodies that draw additional current through the bulkhead terminals and the ignition switch. Meltdowns happen at the weakest link.
When the Chryslers engineers added their electric choke assist onto this blue wire circuit they had already upgraded the electrical and they placed a mechanical limiter in the choke supply line so it couldn't draw full 12 volts at x amps all the time. We know that mechanical limiter was under the hood, not water tight, and didn't survive the elements. We can do a hell of a lot better today, sourcing components at any junkyard.
A aftermarket carburetor mfgr is not going to include a lot of well engineered electrical components. That's not under their hat. They simply recommended that you not tie their electric choke into those circuits that can disable the vehicle, and done.
I've built relays to carry the load of the choke. It's basically a dead short.
Can you hook it up to the ballast sure, however, if something went wrong, you melt the ignition circuit in the car.
Can you hook it up to the ballast sure, however, if something went wrong, you melt the ignition circuit in the car.
That's why I used the blue wiper feed. If it shorts and fails the only thing I loose is the wipers and no rain driving for me! The breaker in the switch will reset once you remove the short by disconnecting the choke! As well it is easy to hide for those looking for authenticity!
There's a single wire from ignition switch to feed 3 "hot at switch on" branch circuits through the fuse box. Heater blower, wiper, radio, etc... So basically ( beyond the ignition switch, you're on the black wire instead of the blue wire that most others are using.
I'm not sure your method will prevent the madelectrical meltdown or ignition switch failure either.
My knowing of the load generated by crusty worn wiper pivots does put your method a tick above those others previously suggested ( If our thread starter is willing to forfeit one thing for another ).
For any 67 model owners that might be following along... The circuit breaker mentioned above is built inside your wiper switch so don't even consider this.
Yeah a timed relay switched by the ignition with a fuse or breaker to the choke would be ideal.
Did not want any foreign relays around period!! So I thought using the power feed from the wiper switch gives some protection, knowing there is a built in circuit breaker. Pulled the connector terminal and re-crimped a new one with both wires in the same color blue. Barely noticable.
Did not want any foreign relays around period!! So I thought using the power feed from the wiper switch gives some protection, knowing there is a built in circuit breaker. Pulled the connector terminal and re-crimped a new one with both wires in the same color blue. Barely noticable.
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