question of the day! ??

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j par

j par

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horsepower could be the question of the day? !
×2 600 cfm edelbrocks tunnel ram, 596heads (home porting- smoothing exhaust ports/ opening under all seats just a little bit- not getting carried away here I'm a first timer) then back to the shop for valve job-1.60/1.88 . Solid cam (regrind) cam- duration@ .50 - 259/267 lift gross 546/566 lash .026/.028 lob sep. 104/110
Av. 107. 273 rockers. 360 block, scat stroker (cast) crank, scat I-beams, icon forged flat tops - 10.8 : 1 with 70cc heads.*

Of course this will be in my 73*duster
gutted
4 speed
355 sure grip
26 in street slicks
110 octane fuel
hopefully high 12's? ???

***
 
While it's not a "generic" 408 build as most would do, if that doesn't run high 12's in a lightened Duster.......The only possible remedy would be to send it to me and I will do several years of exhaustive research as to why not. :D:D:D
 
No takers yet huh?

Honestly, with a build like that, I'd be more concerned with the torque, or should I say torque curve. With the tunnel ram, small heads and 3.55's, as long as the carbs & ignition are tuned well, and with the cam you proposed, that thing could be really stout in the 4000/5500 range. Keep in mind that the HP will come as the rpm's get to the top of that range.

The 4spd is a nice advantage with the 3.55's in my opinion. As long as you can work it thru the power range that engine gives you, even with a stockish suspension and a pair of regulation size slicks, the 12's should not be a issue at all.......and have a ton of potential besides.

I hope you're really considering building a combo like this. It would be very cool in my opinion. :thumbrig:
 
If you can't hit 12's with all of that, then you need your mom to start your mechanic school by changing a spark plug the lawn mower.... :) ....... lol
 
I hope you're really concerning building a combo like this. It would be very cool in my opinion. :thumbrig:[/QUOTE]

Lord willing it's going to happen! It's all over but the- well -- "the rest of the machine shop bill"!! LOL

Actually it's a 410 - .040 over. I just had to be a little different.
 
Here, I'll be serious. I hit high 12's with a .030 over 360, stock crank, stock rods, stock 340 J-heads, 750 Holley on a dual plane intake, .484 lift hydraulic cam. It had 9.1 compression. Pistons were 135 dollar cheapest on the market. I had 1000 dollars into the motor (and that included buying the 360 for 25 bucks). It was backed by a stock 727 and a TCI street converter. My car weighed 3200 lbs. I drove it 1 hour to the track, raced it as I drove it. NO open headers, using normal pump gas, and DOT tires. If I did a build like yours, I'd say anything less than mid - 11's is garbage.
 
:happy1:Wow? Old man and 318 are the only ones with a guest-0-mation?:happy1:
 
Here's what my really old, and free with an engine building book, dyno program said:

Small & Big Headers
RPM HP TQ HP TQ
==== === === === ===
2000 114 298 116 305
2500 156 328 160 336
3000 198 347 203 355
3500 256 382 261 392
4000 319 419 323 424
4500 375 437 380 443
5000 416 436 421 442
5500 437 417 445 425
6000 441 386 452 396
6500 429 299 444 359
Umm... 4" stroke & cast crank

Should haul the mail pretty well. Of course my Dart's 318 isn't too far off, given that it's running on pump 93 with a 10.25:1 CR and and spotting the 410 84 Cid:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970652714&postcount=129

Dave
 
Thanks College Park Dave :D. I say CP with all respect as I spent my first 30yrs in Mont Co, Md.....

At least those numbers verify my guess of the 4000/5500 torque curve. :thumbrig:
 
on that desktop thing are you able to put all of the cam specs and that sort of stuff?
 
j par said:
on that desktop thing are you able to put all of the cam specs and that sort of stuff
Yes. Accuracy with compression, cam timing,& accurate air flow numbers help here. Here is a recent discussion here, about it....;
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=296332&highlight=desktop+dyno
As for H.P/torque numbers... : A pocket ported 1:88/1.60 usually flows 220-230's on the intake port ,with a good three angle valve job. Ricky is dead on ,the 4000-5500 power band . peak torque: 480-500 @ 4300-4700(big cams shift torque peaks up...). Peak H.P...: Somewhere around 5300-5600 , high number roughly 410-430. A bigger set of heads,will blow you easily past the 500 zone. Just my opinion, after tweaking a 408 years ago.
Click to expand...
 
Abodybomber said:
j A bigger set of heads said:
I was going to save the bigger heads and bigger cam and nicer roller rockers and all that stuff for next year too hopefully hit an et improvement each year. besides that I'm still scrambling for money to get the last bit paid for the machine shop to get the motor back! Lol
I'm going to check that thread out real quick
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
Abodybomber said:
I was going to save the bigger heads and bigger cam and nicer roller rockers and all that stuff for next year too hopefully hit an et improvement each year. besides that I'm still scrambling for money to get the last bit paid for the machine shop to get the motor back! Lol
I'm going to check that thread out real quick
Click to expand...

Sorry,I hope I didn't mislead you. The thread was about basic ideas of Desktop Dyno.....
What cam/heads were you going to run, to start? Obviously,changes all.
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
horsepower could be the question of the day? !
×2 600 cfm edelbrocks tunnel ram, 596heads (home porting- smoothing exhaust ports/ opening under all seats just a little bit- not getting carried away here I'm a first timer) then back to the shop for valve job-1.60/1.88 . Solid cam (regrind) cam- duration@ .50 - 259/267 lift gross 546/566 lash .026/.028 lob sep. 104/110
Av. 107. 273 rockers. 360 block, scat stroker (cast) crank, scat I-beams, icon forged flat tops - 10.8 : 1 with 70cc heads.*

Of course this will be in my 73*duster
gutted
4 speed
355 sure grip
26 in street slicks
110 octane fuel
hopefully high 12's? ???

***
Click to expand...
????? The question of the day! ?????? LOL
 
I wasn't trying to be smart, I just thought the quote would be faster.
I would really like your opinion, needless to say I'm pretty jazzed about getting the motor back.
I never ported heads before, but I couldn't wait to get my hands dirty.
I got them back disassembled and cleaned.
Just under the seat of all the bowls it seemed to get smaller or bottle neck?
I ground out that so the bowl was straight down of the seat?
Just that on the intake (plus any casting bur's) left the rest ruff to atomize ?
On the exhaust I opened the bowl at the bottle neck and smoothed the entire bowl and runner?
No gasket match?
Does this all sound right?
 
j par said:
I wasn't trying to be smart, I just thought the quote would be faster.
I would really like your opinion, needless to say I'm pretty jazzed about getting the motor back.
I never ported heads before, but I couldn't wait to get my hands dirty.
I got them back disassembled and cleaned.
Just under the seat of all the bowls it seemed to get smaller or bottle neck?
I ground out that so the bowl was straight down of the seat?
Just that on the intake (plus any casting bur's) left the rest ruff to atomize ?
On the exhaust I opened the bowl at the bottle neck and smoothed the entire bowl and runner?
No gasket match?
Does this all sound right?
Click to expand...

Jeez,thought the heads ,were already done.... A bad *** dude (FABO staff ,wish he still was here,stuff happens..) took the time to do this thread,yet he ports heads for a living, and very good .... (If someone is still in contact with Justin,interject here would kick ***...) .Here you go,miss this dude..
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=167865
Learn and look,try to understand how it works. Ask, lots of questions, post lot's of pictures. My opinion, hopefully someone chimes in.....

Grab junk heads to practice on. (why???) I ,feel you are money ahead, getting some done professionally done.Been here,done that.!!¡! Porting ,sucks ***....
 
There as done as I'm going to get them (most likely fried!? LOL) and back to the shop.
 
Oh yeah, I read that thread before I got started, but somehow mine didn't look so perfect?
 
j par said:
Oh yeah, I read that thread before I got started, but somehow mine didn't look so perfect?
Click to expand...

Post pictures, be prepared for criticism.... Saving coin & learning, takes some time (and heat).Ask lots of questions, ask before you grind.
I learned with a slow turning electric drill, with a 1" inch Ace hardware abrasive drum,with a 80 grit roll. You are money ahead,to have a pro do them. Ididthe same for pure learning.(what you ask,now)...
 
To late! Gave them back to the shop. They didn't cringe! :) they said if they had to touch them up a bit- no problem?
 
j par said:
To late! Gave them back to the shop. They didn't cringe! :) they said if they had to touch them up a bit- no problem?
Click to expand...

Hell no! (lol)... A "touch up " ,from a machine shop, is a good thing. (heads only?) That statement tells me,they give a damn(maybe..) . Let us know, it's a good sign ,someone gave a damn. Good luck.....
 
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