Rear bearings, green vs timken

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J-MacsMopars

Shade Tree Vintage Auto on YouTube
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I am sure this has been brought up before. What is the better bearing and why? I am rebuilding a 67 b-body 8 3/4 for my duster which will be daily driven. I drive the car hard and play even harder. I will be running a 741 case with sure grip and currently running factory 10" drum brakes. If it matters, the car has a mild 340 with built 904. I plan to run 15" wheels and SS springs with rear sway bar.

Thanks in advance for the thoughts...
 
I am sure this has been brought up before. What is the better bearing and why? I am rebuilding a 67 b-body 8 3/4 for my duster which will be daily driven. I drive the car hard and play even harder. I will be running a 741 case with sure grip and currently running factory 10" drum brakes. If it matters, the car has a mild 340 with built 904. I plan to run 15" wheels and SS springs with rear sway bar.

Thanks in advance for the thoughts...
I am in the process of replacing mine as well. After some research, I am convinced the "Green Bearings" are the way to go. No internal seals to worry about and no preload adjustment. Simple easy and affordable. I ordered mine from Mancini $85.00 bucks plus the cost to have them pressed on to the axles by a machine shop.
 
You're gonna get varied opinions. Personally I like the tapered roller bearings. I have never used the green bearings, and I don't expect I ever will.
 
I am old school and prefer stock timkens my self. May be stuck in my old ways and think they are a lot stronger then green bearings.
 
I am old school and prefer stock timkens my self. May be stuck in my old ways and think they are a lot stronger then green bearings.
if there is any wear on the axles where the "lip seal" rides its going to leak. I took a good look at mine and decided on the "Greens" One can always drift the seal in short in the axle tube to compensate, but for the average Joe... The "Greens" are simple install.
 
I have greens as well easy to fit place in oven ( while wife is out) warm them up bout 170-180 they'll drop right in place on shaft. Considering all modern cars now run seal/green bearing they can't be to bad.
 
Green bearings are simple and easy to install, but they are a Ball bearing, unlike the factory tapered design. I personally do not use green bearings, the tapered kind can last 40+ years with no problems, and I never had issues with oil leaks either.
 
I'd like to hear if any one has had failure with the Greens... I could not seem to find any negative feedback..?
 
I'd like to hear if any one has had failure with the Greens... I could not seem to find any negative feedback..?

There has been a few threads here about the failures. There are also a lot of guys running them without issue.

Ever see an axle walk out of a housing and tear up the rear quarter?
 
J-mac, if you do go with the ball bearings, I think the ones with the snap ring are the ones you want if your suregrip has the thrust buttons/block in it. If you use the other version they need to be removed.
 
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There has been a few threads here about the failures. There are also a lot of guys running them without issue.

Ever seen an axle walk out of a housing and tear up the rear quarter?
Good point. now I have been schooled. That's a scary thought. I would prefer a wet set of Brake shoes any day.
 
I'm not saying they are bad, as I said a lot of guys run em with no issues. I just can't bring myself to use them on a street car with a lot of turning involved. I would probably run them on a straight line car just because it would be easier to swap out a center section.

We'll see if Cosgig jumps in here, I believe he knows of a few failures local to him and I.
 
I'm not saying they are bad, as I said a lot of guys run em with no issues. I just can't bring myself to use them on a street car with a lot of turning involved. I would probably run them on a straight line car just because it would be easier to swap out a center section.

We'll see if Cosgig jumps in here, I believe he knows of a few failures local to him and I.
The insight is appreciated. I had a torn seal on the left axle, the axle is grooved pretty good.
 
Perhaps if you swap that grooved axle to the other side it will ride in a better area. Theres no law that says the adjuster has to be on a certain side. Or you can swap the adjuster also at time of pressing.
 
Green bearings get a bad rap because there are two kinds. The first older style was an inferior design and was prone to failure due to excessive side loading. The second later designed is much improved having resolved those issues.

I used to know how to tell them apart by number and name, but I have forgotten. Maybe Supershafts or Dr Diff will chime in. I have seen one or the other....or maybe both talking about the same thing.

The green style bearings have been used on cars and trucks for a very long time and you do not see large scale failures. It's a very good design, you just have to get the right ones.
 
I plan to buy from Dr Diff, I just priced all the brake lines out and it's going to get expensive. Lol
 
My old V code 70 RR had the livin' you know what run out of it. The rear bearings lasted nearly 100K as I recall. I'd say if the axle seal surfaces are in good shape stay with tapered. Adjustment is not that hard, and is right in the shop manuals. A tapered roller, all things being equal, has much more side load capacity than a ball bearing of similar size

If you are narrowing a housing I can see that greens might be easier

81sruds.jpg
 
this is a debate that will never die.

all i can say is that the rear in our dart has had a the same set of green bearings in it since the mid 90's and i have never had any issues with them. tons of hard street miles and it was beat to hell at the track. still no problems.

if ya go green then call dr diff and he will sell you the correct ones.
 
I've read and read and read.. Lots of opinions on green bearings.. Lots of people saying they fail, but what I have not read is someone that actually running them and theirs failed. Just people saying they fail. Sure there may be pics of them, but what did they do to cause them to fail? Any bearing can fail. There is always a cause. With that said, Im running them and I have not been easy on them, corners, sideways, you name it. I know a lot of drag racers that are using them as well. I say run them!
 
I've had the Green bearings on my Dana 60 for 6 years no problems. Got mine from Dr. Diff.

Fred B
 
Here we go again, LOL

Actually, there are seals to worry about with green bearings......they are integral with the bearing, and if they allow the diff lube into the bearing they could possibly lead to a premature failure of the bearing.

Honestly, it takes all of about ten minutes to set up the end play in tapered rollers, the argument the green bearings are easier to install does not fly, at least with me.

My opinion....and only my opinion......if you are a dedicated drag racer and change the pumpkin often to suit different tracks I can see using green bearings.

If it is a street car, stick with tapered rollers. They are simple. They work. The rear end was designed to use them. They last for 40 plus years with a little grease every now and then.

My 2 cents
 
I run the green bearings/snap ring type and still use the inner axle seals. I get them from Dr Diff and never had any failures street and strip driver. I'm also not sure if all Timken bearings are still made in the USA.
 
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