Rear bearings, green vs timken

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Going straight down the dragstrip? Go with Green bearings.

Driving around turns? Tapered Timkens.

If you can gap spark plugs, you can adjust axle end play. It takes no more than 10 minutes.
 
Woodie said:
I'd like to hear if any one has had failure with the Greens... I could not seem to find any negative feedback..?
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I've seen two green bearing failures first- hand, both on the street.

Look, it's easy. Ball bearings (green) don't take side load well. Yeah, they're cheaper/simpler. But there's a reason even cheapskate Chrysler didn't run em.

If the car gets cornered, run the Timken tapers. If it's drag ONLY, then the greens are fine.
 
My Ford E-250 (2010) still uses Timkens, but The GM's run greens. Sounds right? thats what my fleet mechanic told me. I have had a sealed bearing failure in my Breeze, front hub went south, squealed and then cooked. had to buy an entire hub from junyard which was cheaper than the new bearing anyway and lasted me another 40K until I junked it. I dont think they are meant to even be serviced.
 
Last I read a few years ago Timken was closing up and going over seas.
Don't know for sure though.
Yea, Greens work OK, I guess.
Are you going in straight line a few miles at a time?
Are you going to be swapping out the gears in a hurry?
If ball bearings are good for side loads, put them in the front hubs.
(Rhetorical)
I had a Honda with ball bearings in the front.
But it was front wheel drive.
I don't think "new cars" using them is a ringing endorsement myself.
And I don't like to think I have to get "the right ones".
 
...lots of failures with the ball bearings,just changed one on our crv...theoretically there is only a few thou contact.
i don't know why anyone would even consider them,as stated adjustment of axles is simple!
 
This issue has been beat to DEATH but I will say that I've run green bearings for many years with no problems.

Jeff
 
Let's sum this up.
We've established the newer green bearings only fail occasionally (just check the track record on newer cars) but are probably O.K.
..how many parts do you want on your car that are probably O.K.
 
I like to run a green on the passenger side, but on the divers side I would only use the timkens.
 
ir3333 said:
Let's sum this up.
We've established the newer green bearings only fail occasionally (just check the track record on newer cars) but are probably O.K.
..how many parts do you want on your car that are probably O.K.
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so you are saying a timken bearing has never failed?? i find that kinda hard to believe.
 
IDK
Is there a third option?
Im too lazy to adjust those funny looking ones, once every 5 or 8 years, and Ill probably never change my rear end( Im happy with the 2.45s). I like to autocross every other weekend, and the in-betweens, I will be drag-stripping it! Got a turboed 379 in er.During the week I drive er to work every day. Its a straight shot, but about 50% is a little twisty. I like to take the little ones camping, now and then, and will be towing a 40 ft camper. I think the 379 can pull that at 80 no sweat. So all in all, I think thats about 30% twistys, 30% straight,and 50% everything else.No A/C. Am-Fm if it matters.( But the in-dash speaker dont work so good any more).So any ideas for my 8 1/4?
 
Don't road race with the Green bearings. They can't stand much side load.
 
Been using green bearings for over 6 years in my 8 3/4 running a SPOOL not one single problem even on the STREET!!!:D:D
 
The entire issue of failure or not, probably has to do more, with the installer, rather than the design. I never had an issue with either.
 
All kidding aside,i have never seen a tapered bearing fail.
I have replaced some that were pitted due to water contamination and usually on something 35 or 40 years old.
...i am convinced they are a better, stronger design.
 
J-MacsMopars said:
I am sure this has been brought up before. What is the better bearing and why? I am rebuilding a 67 b-body 8 3/4 for my duster which will be daily driven. I drive the car hard and play even harder. I will be running a 741 case with sure grip and currently running factory 10" drum brakes. If it matters, the car has a mild 340 with built 904. I plan to run 15" wheels and SS springs with rear sway bar.

Thanks in advance for the thoughts...
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What's a 'built 904?'
 
AJ/FormS said:
IDK
Is there a third option?
Im too lazy to adjust those funny looking ones, once every 5 or 8 years, and Ill probably never change my rear end( Im happy with the 2.45s). I like to autocross every other weekend, and the in-betweens, I will be drag-stripping it! Got a turboed 379 in er.During the week I drive er to work every day. Its a straight shot, but about 50% is a little twisty. I like to take the little ones camping, now and then, and will be towing a 40 ft camper. I think the 379 can pull that at 80 no sweat. So all in all, I think thats about 30% twistys, 30% straight,and 50% everything else.No A/C. Am-Fm if it matters.( But the in-dash speaker dont work so good any more).So any ideas for my 8 1/4?
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You Win for best post!
 
I have green ones in my car and I have been beating the $hit out of it for 8 years on the street and track and all is good.
 
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