Where the bleeder screw is positioned, you will NEVER get all of the air out of the system. The screw has to be at the VERY top. Something is definitely wrong about those calipers!
Rear brakes are not bleeding.
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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Just Send It
There goes the neighborhood!
You definitely want the bleeder screw on top while bleeding. Air bubbles will always move away from the Earth's center.
Think they are made to mount low
Maybe 3rd generation camaro
Maybe 3rd generation camaro
340six
King Of Bling
Can you take them off and pull build with a MityVac. Just keep pulling fresh fluid till bleeding is good to go and reinstall
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Looks like bleeder is facing down. Air goes up so air will never come out if bleeder is facing down like that
If you want to isolate your problem plug both lines to the calipers. Bleed the lines and if you don't have a good pedal then backup in the system and plug at the valve, bleed and check pedal. Personally I would start at the other end first but either way will work. Plug and bleed to isolate. Knowing where the problem is is the first step.
It’s the same kit as mentioned in this DIY, only difference is I moved the brake caliper up 1 slot like the person who did the write up said he might do because of where the bottom bolt is in relation the the spring. I can move it down and check.
I have it positioned about the exact spot where it was on the last car.
I also noticed that the spring to the parking brake was a little tangled on the bracket so I adjusted that off. Still a flat pedal as of now.
I did fix the lawnmower so I could mow before heading to Vegas for a week.
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I have it positioned about the exact spot where it was on the last car.
I also noticed that the spring to the parking brake was a little tangled on the bracket so I adjusted that off. Still a flat pedal as of now.
I did fix the lawnmower so I could mow before heading to Vegas for a week.
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When I bleed with the power bleeder I’m getting clean fluid no air. It’s the weirdest thing. I literally have ran 3 bottles of fluid through the system.
Doesn’t matter. You can put all the pressure you want in those calipers, but as long as the bleeder isn’t at the top, you’ll NEVER get the air out.
Just Send It
There goes the neighborhood!
Inertia
Well-Known Member
The drilled passage to the bleeder screw enters the TOP of caliper piston bore when mounted correctly, where the "air" collects, thus bleeding out the air in that void.
Mosta the problems with the "cobra" calipers is insufficient/restricted travel of the emergency levers not allowing the actual " ratcheting " mechanism to push the piston into contact with the pad. ( like swinging your ratchet back and forth with no "click")
Previous thread, bango fitting interfered with lever return, previous to that cables too short, previous to that, iirc, they didn't know to use emerg at all.
Locating pin of the pad, not secured in the piston notch, - allowed the piston to turn insteada moving out on the screw mechanism.
You won't get pedal till all pads are in full contact with rotors.
Cheers
Mosta the problems with the "cobra" calipers is insufficient/restricted travel of the emergency levers not allowing the actual " ratcheting " mechanism to push the piston into contact with the pad. ( like swinging your ratchet back and forth with no "click")
Previous thread, bango fitting interfered with lever return, previous to that cables too short, previous to that, iirc, they didn't know to use emerg at all.
Locating pin of the pad, not secured in the piston notch, - allowed the piston to turn insteada moving out on the screw mechanism.
You won't get pedal till all pads are in full contact with rotors.
Cheers
Ok I will try bleeding again with the caliper bleeder screw as high as possible and see what happens.
If you plug and bleed the lines going into the calipers and don't have a good pedal then you have a problem upstream. If you do have a good pedal after plugging then you know the problem is downstream. I would isolate where the problem is first then figure out why.
Last edited:
Yes it is. I took 1/2 the brakes off of it. Mainly the stuff off the rear end. Everything on the front end is new from DrDiff.
I’m gravity bleeding now. I think I got like 3 or 4 air bubbles out of the passenger rear.
Still no pedal. I didn’t work on it much after this. The rear lines aren’t the best, and all of them sit super high in the rear subfloor area right in front of the gas tank.
I’m heading to Vegas tomorrow so I won’t mess with it until I get back. When I get back I’m swapping the brakes out and I’ll swap the lines out to the stock location. This will probably help me bleed the lines much better as I can keep the bleeders higher than all of the lines. Plus I will be using new calipers, and a new MC so hopefully it will help rule out bad parts or broken seals.
I wanted to thank everyone for helping me the past couple days.
@340sFastback has great advice, those rear disks can be very tricky with the initial parking brake/caliper piston set up. I had a few go arounds with that set up on my car as well
This too. Especially with aftermarket rear disks kits. The caliper brackets frequently don’t put the calipers at the same angle as they were on the original application, and that can cause real problems with the bleeding process. The more generic the kit the more likely this is to be an issue.
If the caliper can’t have the bleeder at the highest point while mounted in the bracket, you may have to remove one or both of the caliper mounting bolts to get the bleeder at the highest point. You can put a block between the pads if you need to move the caliper far enough it won’t catch the rotor.
If you do have to use a block obviously there may be additional adjustments to be made once it’s back on the rotor, but at least the air should be gone at that point.
LOL! You said “original” and “50+ years old”. One look at the pictures and you can see neither of those are even remotely true. Used yes, original- not even close. And the brakes were functional before they were removed. Also in the first post. No need to get mad at me because you missed the obvious straight away
This too. Especially with aftermarket rear disks kits. The caliper brackets frequently don’t put the calipers at the same angle as they were on the original application, and that can cause real problems with the bleeding process. The more generic the kit the more likely this is to be an issue.
If the caliper can’t have the bleeder at the highest point while mounted in the bracket, you may have to remove one or both of the caliper mounting bolts to get the bleeder at the highest point. You can put a block between the pads if you need to move the caliper far enough it won’t catch the rotor.
If you do have to use a block obviously there may be additional adjustments to be made once it’s back on the rotor, but at least the air should be gone at that point.
LOL! You said “original” and “50+ years old”. One look at the pictures and you can see neither of those are even remotely true. Used yes, original- not even close. And the brakes were functional before they were removed. Also in the first post. No need to get mad at me because you missed the obvious straight away
Doc, when you get back take a picture of the rear calipers installed showing us where the bleeder screws are positioned. As mentioned multiple times, if the bleeder screws are NOT at the very top, you WILL have air in the system no matter how many times you bleed it, or how many pints/quarts of fluid you use.
I unbolted the calipers last time I bled them and did gravity bleeding. I bled them for about 5 minutes each rear caliper while holding the bleeder higher than the hard lines and brake hose entering the caliper. I reinstalled them after having no air bubbles. Still a dead pedal after reinstalling everything
This is where it all sits front and back. You can see the bleeder higher in location relative to the hose coming in the caliper but the bleeder faces down not up. When I took the calipers off the rotors and gravity bled them I wasn’t getting any air, but the fluid comes out super slow compared to the front calipers.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
When you had them unbolted and tilted back it looked like bleeder was up and air should have been able to get out
I tried to gravity bleed my rear disc and fluid would not flow. So that did not work for me either. I used a Motive Pressure Bleeder but had to jack up back of car to get master cylinder level so air could be pushed out.
I tried to gravity bleed my rear disc and fluid would not flow. So that did not work for me either. I used a Motive Pressure Bleeder but had to jack up back of car to get master cylinder level so air could be pushed out.
Good grief that bleeder location is really crap for access!
The fluid coming of the rear should be slower than the front, it is going through a combination valve that reduces the flow compared to the front.
Remember when gravity bleeding it’s not enough for the bleeders to just be higher than the lines, the bleeder has to be at the highest point of the cavity in the caliper. If it’s not you’ll clear air from the lines but can still trap a pocket in the caliper above the level of the bleeder.
You’ve been working with the same master cylinder this entire time right? Those rear brakes can be tricky and that particular set up leaves some things to be desired but given that nothing seems to have helped so far a bad MC is probably the most likely culprit at this point.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
This is the kit? Like why do they sell a so called kit that has bleeder screws facing down?
8 3/4" Chrysler Dana-60 Rear Disc Brake Kit | Rustic Disc Brakes 8 3/4" Chrysler Dana-60 Rear Disc Brake Kit | Rustic Disc Brakes
I pick options add to cart and its more expensive then Dr Diff 10.7 rear disc brake kit:
8 3/4" Chrysler Dana-60 Rear Disc Brake Kit | Rustic Disc Brakes 8 3/4" Chrysler Dana-60 Rear Disc Brake Kit | Rustic Disc Brakes
I pick options add to cart and its more expensive then Dr Diff 10.7 rear disc brake kit:
It’s an old master power kit, but it’s the same as MBM kit, I believe some of the parts on the front said MBM.
I didn’t buy it, it was already on the black dart, I just figured I’d steal it off and put it on my purple dart. I have a DrDiff kit sitting on my copper dart in the other shop, and that car isn’t going anywhere for a while so it doesn’t need brakes.
@72bluNblu yes same MC. When I get back into town I’ll swap out the MC and see if it bleeds with a firm pedal before putting the other brake kit on.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
If it were me I would sell that rear disc kit that came off that black Dart.
The Dr Diff kit you have on your other Dart is same one I have and its a proven to work setup. After some install issues I had I can verify that Dr Diff 10.7 rear disc kit is excellent. And Dr Diff is quick to respond to any issues that may arise too.....
The Dr Diff kit you have on your other Dart is same one I have and its a proven to work setup. After some install issues I had I can verify that Dr Diff 10.7 rear disc kit is excellent. And Dr Diff is quick to respond to any issues that may arise too.....
Before you pull the master, bleed it and put plugs in it. If you have a good pedal then the master is fine. if not replace the master. Order these adapters and plugs and you will have them for future diagnosing on these old cars. This is a good way to isolate the problem area in your brake system.
Amazon.com: Allstar Performance ALL41012 3/16" Adapter for Sideport M/C : Automotive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8MKEA?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DMH3MGS?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNGVDUG?tag=fabo03-20
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