RECENT EXPERIENCES FI TECH AND ALTERNATORS

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GMachineDartGT

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Some here know I operate a shop that specializes in work on modernizing musclecars. My Dart is no exception. In my continued quest for better, faster, stronger I installed a FiTech unit after installing several others for customers. Coming from a well tuned carb with a documented fuel curve, a fuel tank I can run on a road course down to 2 gallons and a dead accurate fuel gage I was hesitant.
I'm a tanks inc dealer and installed one of those as well. Once up and running the efi is light years better than any carb, even mine. You will learn a lot depending on your combo. Mine is a 505 hp 410 stroker that makes 13" vacuum. First issue that came up is a blown fuel pump fuse. It seems some fitech systems were packaged with fuses too low in amperage. Mine was one of them. Stuck on the road scratching my head...Once I realized what had happened, I checked another unit we had on the shelf and found 25amp fuses in both locations. Next, tuning was posing some unique challenges as I had a noise code come up, like many people. After checking my ignition very carefully, I found a cracked cap on my MSD E curve. I also decided to replace my old msd wires with Firecore 50s. This was my first time purchasing these wires, and I have to say, they are super nice. Tuning continued and well pretty well until I noticed by 60 amp Nippondenso unit was not keeping up with electrical demands of twin 12" spals, fuel pump, etc. Forget about my air conditioning. Before I could get the electrical sorted, I had a track event at Lime Rock. As long as the fans were not on, I was ok. While the fans run, the voltage ticks downward until they turn off. Lime Rock was great, did 2 sessions and was thrilled. I now burn 2.5 gallons, when I used to burn 4. Mileage is clearly improved even at full boogie. The end of the second session the motor shut off mid track. Luckily, the run off area was safe. I was quickly able to determine I had lost the tach signal from the coil. Incidently, I had this happen on a clients vehicle last year. I send the unit in for repair. Luckily, I had a spare unit was able to get on with life. The new unit has been fine. On to the alternator issue. I have factory style ac brackets (Bouchillon) and edelbrock heads, so the space behind the alternator is limited. After trying the Quality power unit (not even close), and the John Deere Nippondenso (Spider Marine deal) there was only one option and an expensive one. I bit the bullet and purchased the unit from Flaming River. I had to modify one of the mounting ears in a way that was not easily noticeable. Now I can run dual belts again. It fit perfectly otherwise and I am thrilled to have 14v give or take .2v under any circumstances. This thing works.
Now all is good in the world, except the huge electric fans now need a PWM controller. The current draw effects the efi when they turn on. Never a dull moment!!

20170722_222822.jpg
 
I use a GM unit out of a 88 Olds custom Ciera. Put's out 120 Amps at full boogie, with 14 volts at idle with the air on. I have FItech also, no problem as of yet. Pic is starting FItech install.

IMG_0627.JPG
 
Some here know I operate a shop that specializes in work on modernizing musclecars. My Dart is no exception. In my continued quest for better, faster, stronger I installed a FiTech unit after installing several others for customers. Coming from a well tuned carb with a documented fuel curve, a fuel tank I can run on a road course down to 2 gallons and a dead accurate fuel gage I was hesitant.
I'm a tanks inc dealer and installed one of those as well. Once up and running the efi is light years better than any carb, even mine. You will learn a lot depending on your combo. Mine is a 505 hp 410 stroker that makes 13" vacuum. First issue that came up is a blown fuel pump fuse. It seems some fitech systems were packaged with fuses too low in amperage. Mine was one of them. Stuck on the road scratching my head...Once I realized what had happened, I checked another unit we had on the shelf and found 25amp fuses in both locations. Next, tuning was posing some unique challenges as I had a noise code come up, like many people. After checking my ignition very carefully, I found a cracked cap on my MSD E curve. I also decided to replace my old msd wires with Firecore 50s. This was my first time purchasing these wires, and I have to say, they are super nice. Tuning continued and well pretty well until I noticed by 60 amp Nippondenso unit was not keeping up with electrical demands of twin 12" spals, fuel pump, etc. Forget about my air conditioning. Before I could get the electrical sorted, I had a track event at Lime Rock. As long as the fans were not on, I was ok. While the fans run, the voltage ticks downward until they turn off. Lime Rock was great, did 2 sessions and was thrilled. I now burn 2.5 gallons, when I used to burn 4. Mileage is clearly improved even at full boogie. The end of the second session the motor shut off mid track. Luckily, the run off area was safe. I was quickly able to determine I had lost the tach signal from the coil. Incidently, I had this happen on a clients vehicle last year. I send the unit in for repair. Luckily, I had a spare unit was able to get on with life. The new unit has been fine. On to the alternator issue. I have factory style ac brackets (Bouchillon) and edelbrock heads, so the space behind the alternator is limited. After trying the Quality power unit (not even close), and the John Deere Nippondenso (Spider Marine deal) there was only one option and an expensive one. I bit the bullet and purchased the unit from Flaming River. I had to modify one of the mounting ears in a way that was not easily noticeable. Now I can run dual belts again. It fit perfectly otherwise and I am thrilled to have 14v give or take .2v under any circumstances. This thing works.
Now all is good in the world, except the huge electric fans now need a PWM controller. The current draw effects the efi when they turn on. Never a dull moment!!

View attachment 1715073602
fitech doesn`t control the elec. fans ? my fast 2.0 will control two , only running one for a back up tho.
 
Fitech like others only provides a ground output when the desired temp is reached. None of the systems provide any type of switching for turn on without relays or some type of controller.
 
Fitech like others only provides a ground output when the desired temp is reached. None of the systems provide any type of switching for turn on without relays or some type of controller.
yes, mine came w/ relays for everything. fuel pump, both fans.
 
You guys using those big alternators still going through the factory bulkhead and alt gauge ?
Total EZ rewire, didn`t want 48 yr old wiring in it. When I stripped the orig. wiring out , the bulkhead was burned up inside! Made me feel like I did somthin right !
 
Fitech like others only provides a ground output when the desired temp is reached. None of the systems provide any type of switching for turn on without relays or some type of controller.

i would much rather use relays to control the fans then have a direct wire to the fan. fans can fail an short out an im sure that would be bad for the fitech.......lol, fan relays is always the way to go.

and the powermaster 120 clears the eddie heads. havent had an issue yet.
 
Nope, did the mad electrical bypass, then use a volt meter.
4 gage charge wire to start relay. Still use the bulkhead but very little current flows through it given the 4ga wire.

You can have a 200 amp alt but you will only use what your vehicle requires.
 
Im trying to get away from relays and use solid state switching. Autocoolguy has a controller I am looking into.
being an electronics/controls guy i know the benefits of solid state but at the same time, solid state does fail as well, the emitter/base/collector junctions can short out or open, especially power or mosfet transistors switching 30amps. even being in a very technical electronics driven profession i still believe in the KISS theory. If a relay fails, i can go down to the local store, or keep a spare with me and replace it on the spot. plus i have 2 fans so im not completely dead. if that solid state device fails....... not as simple of a repair. Just my opinion....... :p
 
yeah PWM would be the biggest thing you would gain. but hey if its not a daily driver you probably wouldn't have to worry about it much either way.....but yeah, i am loving the FiTech so far :)
 
PWM is how they regulate LED flashlights too (LED dimmer) . It basically turns it off and on very quickly, like an injector. The faster the duty cycle, the brighter the light up to 100% power output (well maybe not 100% if the circuitry cant handle that). The Davis-craig electric water pump gets rid of the thermostat by way of PWM control of the pump, slow/off when its cold, ramping up to enough flow to maintain 180 or whatever you want. Brushless fan motors on a quad copter drone use this exclusively as there would be no way to control motor sync otherwise.
 
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