Reluctor Gap

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dkamp

Active Member
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Jan 14, 2023
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Location
Terre Haute, IN.
318 Stock Engine.
When setting the reluctor gap I noticed that if I push/pull the Distributor shaft it has a small amount of play.
The reluctor does not touch the pickup.
What side to side play is acceptable?
I have zero play at the bottom side to side or up/down.
I just replaced my Intermediate shaft and bushing (Yes it was worn with a lot of play it it). So I was checking for any other potential issues.
If the top of the distributor is not allowed to have side to side play, can a bushing be replaced or is a new distributor needed?
Dkamp
 
Are you speaking of lateral movement in the distributor shaft? That's easy to answer. There should be NONE.
 
.008 with a brass feeler gauge. Check them all to make sure the tangs are all close to the same.
 
Last edited:
.008 with a brass feeler gauge. Check them all to make sure they are all close to the same.
That's the air gap. My understanding was he was asking how much lateral movement the distributor shaft should have. That would be zero.
 
That's the air gap. My understanding was he was asking how much lateral movement the distributor shaft should have. That would be zero.
I took it as reluctor gap. "I have zero play at the bottom side to side or up/down." Your guess is as good as mine.
 
OK side play is usually MAX .005, I like them around 2 Zero will not let oil get to them. up down usually around .030 on the average., gap is .008-.010 on all reluctor points. It should be all in the FSM in section 8 27. Hope that helps.
 
The top side play is very small but noticeable. I set the reluctor gap to be .008
If I press the reluctor towards the pickup, I cannot get a .006 feeler gauge into the gap.
It does not touch the pickup.
I don't know what brand of distributor this is, so most likely cannot get a bushing to fix it.
Again at the bottom, there is no play side to side or up/down.
I will begin looking for a replacement distributor.
What is an OK distributor brand/model to get for an 86 318 that is all stock?
They seem to be priced $65-280, how do I select one?
Thank you for any guidance you can provide me, this is new territory for me, I'm a retired computer network Engineer that wants to learn. I've got a Chrysler Service Manual but it does not give the experience that you guys have.
dkamp
 
Since changing the reluctor gap does not affect the timing, your reluctor gap can be anything from zero until it stops triggering the ECU, which point I have not found even with a reluctor gap of .030.
Vertical end-play in the distributor matters not a whit.
Radial play in the bushing I suppose could affect cylinder to cylinder timing, but for a streeter, so what.
What I find tho, more than anything is that the play you might feel by moving the reluctor, is actually above the bushing, between the flyweight carrier axle-pin, and the flyweight cam.
However, just so you know, my distributor is from the 70s, has been thru several cars and I'll guess has 300,000 miles on it, and the last time the car went to the track, she still went 93 in the Eighth, the car has a Commando 4-Speed, AND check it out, she will pull herself around the parking lot at 550 rpm in First gear with 3.55s, as long as I care to, with not a single missfire.
So IDK, I have a very high opinion of that factory Electronic-Ignition distributor.
What's my gap?
IDK, the last time I checked was about 1999...... lol.
 
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