Remove and install new transmission 904 auto

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Chryslerkid

Chryslerkid

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Hey guys,
Any tips on how I can take my transmission out in my garage and put in a new one? I have a floor jack, stands, and a hoist..... I would prefer not to take the entire drive train out if possible. Anyone have suggestions or experience doing this? Thanks.
:coffee2::eek:ops::violent1:
 
Chryslerkid said:
Anyone have suggestions or experience doing this? Thanks.
:coffee2::eek:ops::violent1:
Click to expand...

Yes, it's not too bad.

1. take your distributor cap off (You'll break it when the engine tilts back)
2. drop the crossmember and driveline.
3. disconnect all linkages and cooling lines.
4. disconnect speedo cable and neutral safety switch.
5. Pull the dust cover off the bell housing as well as the starter.
6. remove the four flexplate bolts and push the converter back.
7. stablize the trans and pull the bellhousing bolts.

It's out
It's also a matter of personal opinion what the exact order of these are, but this is the best way for me.
I drop the crossmember before removing the linkages because they are easier to get to with the trans down a little.
Also don't let the converter fall out on your foot.

One time I was putting a trans back into a 4x4 and we were all fooling around and generally goofing off in the shop, I got it all back together exept for the converter bolts.
I walked up to the front and started to put them in and realized there was no converter for them to go in to.:violent1:
I forgot to put it in before the trans went up.:banghead:
 
You may also want to tie some plastic around the tailshaft opening to keep from making a big mess.
 
The above is a good start, a few more

Depending on your shop equipment, you need some way of supporting the engine. Rag padding, a good 2 x 4 across the inner fenders, with chain, come-a-long, or just nylon tie straps under the engine.

Figure a way (small bent piece of scrap) to bend a tab, bolted to a lower dust cover hole, to keep the torque converter in so it doesn't fall out ON YOU, or get fingers. This can also damage the converter snout/ front seal/ etc

You can buy plastic plugs to replace the yoke so trans fluid doesn't drain out the tail, otherwise, round up a spare slip yoke.

If at all possible drain the trans first. On most, this means removing the pan, or at least dropping all but one corner of the pan, then put it back on there.

Make sure you get things supported. Ya don't want to drop that pig on ya!!!
 
Lots of great tips and guidance. Thanks guys. Also if you think of any last minute tips or problems to avoid, please let me know.
 
Add to list above, disconnect battery neg. cable and remove starter. You need to rotate the engine to get at each torque converter bolt. Use a socket at front or a screwdriver thru the starter hole. Mark one bolt location on torque converter & flex-plate (paint or center-punch) since they only fit one way.

If you drive the front up on ramps, you will have room to work below, or you can support it on the frame rails. You don't need a lot to secure the engine since it will still be on the front motor mounts. A wood 4x4 across the inner fenders works (rags to protect paint). It is hard to get at the top bolts unless you lower the tranny a bit (remove x-member). Ratcheting box wrenches might help a lot. I have wrestled out a tranny by hand, supporting it a bit on a rope between the torsion bars, but now have a scissors transmission jack from Harbor Freight which makes it simple (good for many things). The transmission only weighs ~150 lb, and much less once you pull the torque converter.
 
an old spray paint cap will slide in the tailshaft with some tape around it will minimize the trans fluid mess...
 
Experience is the real teacher, and he has good info to start on it.
Lets dont overwhelm him.
 
Make sure the convertor is fully engaged into the front pump when you install the new tranny.
 
Do I need to do anything in order to reach and loosen the upper bolts on the transmission?
 
TrailBeast said:
A 36 inch extension is nice, but not many have one.
Click to expand...

For $80.00 (plus shipppng, probably) Harbor Freight has a 450-lb. capacity transmission jack that would make handling the 904 or 727 a lot easier once it's unbolted.

I have one and consider it money well-spent.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

Good luck with this!!!

I took a 2"-diameter hole saw and put a hole in my floorboard behind each bell-housing-to-block attaching bolt so that I can use a 12"-extension a socket and a ratchet to take out those hard-to-get-at bolt heads.

Maybe not smart on a unibody, but I did it anyway. But then, I'm not very smart...:disgust:

No problems from that so far... Maybe I lucked out.:prayer:
 
Here's one everybody forgot: If you are reinstalling the same transmission, take a can of spray paint and mark one ear on the flex plate and also get some paint on the corresponding torque converter tab. The four bolts on the converter only go in ONE WAY and it's possible to get as many as two or three in before you realize the pattern is off and the last one won't go in and you have to START OVER!

If you are installing a different transmission, try to line up the 4 converter bolts with the flex plate before installing it (or by using your old converter with the painted tab). Hell, I'd even rather drop the flex plate off the motor and line up and mark the four bolts than have to do it with the trans in place!
 
The biggest thing I can recommend is to make sure the car is 100% stable BEFORE you get under there and work. I usually get mine set where I want it and shake the hell out of it to see if it's gonna move on me. The last thing you want is the car on top of you.

Also make sure you have a cordless phone or cell phone within reach if you're working by yourself.
 
Do like greg said and spray paint 1 flex plate ear while hooked to converter. Also, put engine on TDC because you will be turning engine to get the torque converter bolts outs. I realize our 318,340, and 360's are either in or 180 degrees out, but if it makes it easier. Mark where the distributor sits on the block also- that way the timing is about dead on. Need to take the oil pressure sending unit out also to get to a bellhousing bolt.
I literally just did this- twice- in the last 3 weeks and finished the second time today- dumb me didnt change the front pump seal the first time. A $6 seal-REPLACE IT!!
I used the car jack to lift the front end up to get the trans out- looked like it was popping a wheelie lol. I first undid the driveshaft, then inspection plate and TQ conv bolts. Then passing gear linkage at bell housing then linkage at z-bar-take zbar off and let hang-only need to disconnect linkage from tranny side but at the zbar.
I actually raised the tranny side up to get at the top bolts on bell housing-didnt have enough extensions, universals, and short socket to reach. So wrenched the top 4 at a 1/4 turn at a time-fun lol.
I have headers-hedman??-so I had to disconnect the inner tie rod on drivers side and also disconnect pitman and that other are??lol and slide drag link out from headers just to get the starter out. Dont forget to disconnect nuetral safety switch harness either at top of firewall or down by switch. I did both so it wouldnt get tangled up somewhere or pinched between bell housing and block on reassembly.
Dont forget the threadlock goo for TQ conv bolts-red or blue, up to you.
The rest you prob know lol. Hope this helped. I cant think of any other tips off hand that hasnt been mentioned here or by others.
Def make sure converter is ALL the way in before installing. Should be about 1/2 inch?? inside the bellhousing-not flush with it. Have rags and oil dry. And maybe beer haha. and earplugs for the kids because of some words you may make up. Good luck. Not too bad of a job, just take your time and if you get too stressed-walk away for 10 min.
 
It was brought up about marking the flexplate to the converter previously.
 
I replaced the slant 6 and transmission with a 318/904 transmission in a 73 Duster. However, I cannot figure out how to install the speedometer cable. I have both cables run but is there a part I need to ensure the old cable will connect properly and provide accurate speed readings? I have been told by several individualsthat I need a special part at the transmission connection but none of them could tell me what part.
 
Great info here, 1 thing is a must! You need to flush your trans cooler and lines. You need air compressor or they sell cans of cleaner with flex lines to screw onto fittings.
 
Balinesian said:
However, I cannot figure out how to install the speedometer cable.
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You should start a new thread on this, and include photos. What year were the engine and the transmission from? If also 73, the cables should attach. Why more than 1 cable? I thought 1973 had just a speedo cable. Early A's had 3 cables - shift, park, speedo.
 
Maybe they are thinking of the speed o adapter that goes in the tail housing it has to line up with the mark on the housing with the corresponding speed o gear number if gear is 28 it has to line up with the mark for 27-30 and so on. try the one out of the old trans first.
 
Deman is right. Many people just pop in the speedometer gear housing and wonder why the speedometer won't turn! There is a little pointer cast on the side of the hole in the transmission case where the speedometer pinion housing goes into place. The housing has 4 marks with numerical stampings "26-31" "32-38", etc. The pinion housing is eccentric. You turn it to align the correct markings for the number of teeth your speedo gear has with the pointer on the side. (if you have a 30 tooth gear, set it on "26-31" etc)

This allows the plastic gear to mesh with the gear in the transmission. It's simple once you know how it's done, but without it your speedo is not gonna work and you'll have no idea why!
speedohousing.jpg
 
So removing the center link is not usually necessary? My 72 Duster with 360 and headers has about a half-inch gap between the top of the center link and the oil pan, so I can't tilt the engine very far. But it doesn't look like the engine has to tilt much to get the inch or two of backward trans movement for the converter snout and dowel pins to clear. Does that sound right, or should I plan on pulling the center link?
 
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