removing brake line fittings

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DusterDaddy

DusterDaddy

sledgehammer mechanic
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What is the best way to take apart brake line fittings that are rusted in and are frozen without stripping the outside of the fitting?

What is a good penetrating oil and tool that has worked for you?

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated! :violent1:
 
1st thing is to get yourself a good quality flare nut wrench..........

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ATF and kerosene mix, douse it the night before. Use said flare wrench and try to loosen. If it doesnt budge, try tightening . if it still doesnt budge, try again tomorrow. Dont know if heat on brass or fluid line is good idea.
 
I wouldn't think heat would be good either, especially on or near the proportioning valve or cylinders...
 
I know you shouldnt but every time i cant get them loose with a line wrench i have to use vise grips. But you have to be extremely careful and even then they wont budge sometimes. Most of the time they make you want to :banghead:
 
If at a hose or junction, always place a wrench to hold back. If possible, place the wrenches close so one hand, thumb, them to loosen. It is important to limit the travel, other wise if the nut is stuck to the line, it twists. A small turn, to break loose, then check, that nut moves on line. Quick heat to just the nut, then quick shot of penetrant on line. Be careful of fire hazards.

I grew up in the salt belt.
 
Clean around the fittings+PB Blaster+ tapping/vibration to work it into the thread+flare nut wrench=half a chance.
For my Duster, the hardest part was accepting that most of my original brake system was scrap. It was pretty easy to take apart after that. LOL
 
If I'm replacing the line anyways I'll cut it and use a 6 point socket. If trying to save I'll clean around threads and soak w pb blaster, then a day or so later put the flare wrench to it. If it breaks free, I work it back and forth the whole way out. Real stubborn lines I have put a little heat to them. Rolls of line are cheap, more often than not I just cut them use the 6 point socket and bend up a new one. Keep in mind, I'm in Maine where most brake lines are rusty anyways. Can replace quicker than spending a day trying to break it free.
 
I have a small round jaw vise grip that I use. I get it carefully positioned and adjusted the way I want and smack it with a 1 pound hammer. Works 99.9% of the time.
Beyond that first break it loose a common open end wrench will bring them on out.
I do use proper line wrenches in re assembly.
 
DO NOT USE HEAT ON A FITTING THAT GOES INTO A HOSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It will blow the hose out of the crimp joint sound like a gunshot and could cause serious injury.
 
well what i do and i also live in the rust belt i will heat with a blue tank propane torch, not the cutting torch, first just enough to get every thing to expand break the rust loose, then i spray it down with pb-blaster let it soak. go back a few times and soak it down again with the pb-blaster. then make sure you have a tight fighting flare nut wrench, some times metric depending on how old car is, and first off i will tighten it. then spray it down with more pb-blaster. then i will loosen it a little, then tighten, then loosen, then tighten, spray it down with pb-blaster and the back and forth thing again. well you get the idea take your time with it. hope this helps
 
IMO If they are that rusty and crusty it would be wise to just replace the line.

Advance auto/most auto stores carry brake line in many lengths and you can just bend it yourself. The lines are probably crusty on the inside from being there for many years.

If your flare nut wrench wont do it then you will have to go to the vise grips.

Better safe with good brakes then sorry with a smashed up car. :burnout:

Mop
 
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