Restoring AC

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LJS30

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Hey guys it's been a long time but my once hobby car now looks like it might be my transportation to work. So with that said it's time to get the AC going on my 74 Dodge Dart. Everything is in one piece except the new heater core which needs to be installed. How difficult will it be to get the AC going after many years of non-service?
 
HEY,look at the post i just did on ac heater box i just removed. i talked to a ac person here and they said you should replace the dryer (the cylender type unit on the inner fender. they said it breaks down with years of non use and can runit your other componets by trying to use it due to the stuff(salt) in it that makes it a drier. check the radiator unit and the dash unit by using less than 25 pounsa of air preasure and put it under water for leaks. vaccum does not show the leaks as well. if not leaks. you are in business. you must get a "o" ring set and replace all. they are located whereever a hose or fitting bolts together. use ac oil to rub on them before you bolt up. you can check your compressor, cluth etc. against lock up by crossing over the two wires on the dryer and the clutch will/should kick in and if not locked up you are good. put less ac gas in system than is called for due to old running higher than new 'freon" . of course do the vacc etc. you can get the loaner at autozone i think. that all i can think of right now. but should get you down the road a ways. :)
 
HEY,look at the post i just did on ac heater box i just removed. i talked to a ac person here and they said you should replace the dryer (the cylender type unit on the inner fender. they said it breaks down with years of non use and can runit your other componets by trying to use it due to the stuff(salt) in it that makes it a drier. check the radiator unit and the dash unit by using less than 25 pounsa of air preasure and put it under water for leaks. vaccum does not show the leaks as well. if not leaks. you are in business. you must get a "o" ring set and replace all. they are located whereever a hose or fitting bolts together. use ac oil to rub on them before you bolt up. you can check your compressor, cluth etc. against lock up by crossing over the two wires on the dryer and the clutch will/should kick in and if not locked up you are good. put less ac gas in system than is called for due to old running higher than new 'freon" . of course do the vacc etc. you can get the loaner at autozone i think. that all i can think of right now. but should get you down the road a ways. :)


Thanks I'll begin this process and see what happens. I really want to stick with the stock system so I can keep the car as OEM as possible.
 
This helps me out as well. I will be stealing the factory AC from the 66 Dart and putting it in the 65 Barracuda.

Thanks.8)
 
Pull the inlet line off the expansion valve use a dental pick to pull those little cone shaped screens out. Should be 5 or 6 stacked togeteher. Seperate them, clean them , reinstall.
There is plenty of info on the web about the RV2 compressor including its crankcase oil level.
 
Pull the inlet line off the expansion valve use a dental pick to pull those little cone shaped screens out. Should be 5 or 6 stacked togeteher. Seperate them, clean them , reinstall.
There is plenty of info on the web about the RV2 compressor including its crankcase oil level.

I have another concern which I forgot to mention. How hard will it be to convert to the updated freon? Or, is there anyway possible I can get a hold of some old freon?
 
the conversion kits for r134a are simple enough. The air may not be quite as cold at the vent. Still better than no air at all. Anywhere you can find to add insulation will help too.
 
R12 is still available at a lot of AC repair shops. It is recycled and much more expensive but cools so much better than the 134a conversions. They don't advertise but its still out there. 134a sucks in older systems! If you want to stay cool bite the bullet and put R12 in it.
 
Our local NAPA store sells a product called "Freeze 12" It is a direct replacement for the old r-12. Its only about 12.00 a can here. R134A wont cool as well, but it will work. I have read somwhere that if you use r134a, you need to wire in a high side safety switch. Dont know why?
 
Our local NAPA store sells a product called "Freeze 12" It is a direct replacement for the old r-12. Its only about 12.00 a can here. R134A wont cool as well, but it will work. I have read somwhere that if you use r134a, you need to wire in a high side safety switch. Dont know why?

Hmmmmmmmmmm I'll remember that. Nice Dart by the way.
 
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