Resurfaced Lifters

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Bodyperson

Pedal to the metal
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I just got them back from the machine shop and going through them again. I noticed the edges of SOME of the lifters feel like a dull knife edge. Not like hair shaving edge but sharp enough to scrape off some finger nail. They fit in the lifter bores just fine. These are new Johnson HY-LIFT. They may have been fine but I just wanted to make sure. They do look better. The convex seems to be centered better. I have left a message with the machine shop but have not heard back from them but I'm sure I will.
I'm just wondering what proceedures would be used to relieve this edge or maybe its not an issue.
 
Leave the sharp edge, it will not hurt anything! Just make sure the lifter rotates when it is it's bore. Some lobe designs require the full diam of the lifter, no chamfer.
 
Stone. Fine stone like sharpening stone and carefully "45" bevel

You could also use fine sandpaper on a flat surface. Glass or even good flat steel, etc

I would not use anything "powered"
 
Stone. Fine stone like sharpening stone and carefully "45" bevel

You could also use fine sandpaper on a flat surface. Glass or even good flat steel, etc

I would not use anything "powered"
That's what I did. Took nothing at all. Probably was no issue at all.
 
If you actually research this, you will find out that the sharp edge, in this case, is a good thing. By beveling the edge, you are reducing the effective diameter of the lifter.

Let's talk numbers. The Mopar lifter is .904 dia. If you put a noticeable bevel, that's gonna be probably a .0025 to .005 chamfer. Thats if youre being careful and ljggt handed. So now you're talking about reduction of diameter between. 0.005 and 0.010 inches. So now your. .904 lifter is a .894 to .899 to diameter lifter.

If your cam is aggressive enough you could run into issues. Pretty unlikely but still a possibility.
 
If you actually research this, you will find out that the sharp edge, in this case, is a good thing. By beveling the edge, you are reducing the effective diameter of the lifter.

Let's talk numbers. The Mopar lifter is .904 dia. If you put a noticeable bevel, that's gonna be probably a .0025 to .005 chamfer. Thats if youre being careful and ljggt handed. So now you're talking about reduction of diameter between. 0.005 and 0.010 inches. So now your. .904 lifter is a .894 to .899 to diameter lifter.

If your cam is aggressive enough you could run into issues. Pretty unlikely but still a possibility.
I don't think the bevel will hurt anything if the pattern is centered and correct......but I'm like you, I wouldn't want much if any bevel. It's just amazing that back in the late 70s and all through the 80s, we slapped engines together, started them up and drove them down the street and never thought about it. Never had a problem, either. Not one.
 
If you actually research this, you will find out that the sharp edge, in this case, is a good thing. By beveling the edge, you are reducing the effective diameter of the lifter.

Let's talk numbers. The Mopar lifter is .904 dia. If you put a noticeable bevel, that's gonna be probably a .0025 to .005 chamfer. Thats if youre being careful and ljggt handed. So now you're talking about reduction of diameter between. 0.005 and 0.010 inches. So now your. .904 lifter is a .894 to .899 to diameter lifter.

If your cam is aggressive enough you could run into issues. Pretty unlikely but still a possibility.
I did research this. The machinist called me back and said to get rid of the sharp edge. No real bevel to speak of. From his stand point it was more of a safety issue, so nobody cut themselves. Some of it was pretty sharp. I'm sure, at the machine shop, there was an operation to mitigate the situation, it just didnt get done to the fullest of intention.
 
If you actually research this, you will find out that the sharp edge, in this case, is a good thing. By beveling the edge, you are reducing the effective diameter of the lifter.

Let's talk numbers. The Mopar lifter is .904 dia. If you put a noticeable bevel, that's gonna be probably a .0025 to .005 chamfer. Thats if youre being careful and ljggt handed. So now you're talking about reduction of diameter between. 0.005 and 0.010 inches. So now your. .904 lifter is a .894 to .899 to diameter lifter.

If your cam is aggressive enough you could run into issues. Pretty unlikely but still a possibility.
Funny how we can look at the same information, the same facts, and come to different conclusions. I don't disagree with any of this except my final conclusion would be that if the cam is aggressive enough and might be contacting the lifter very close to the edge I sure want a slight radius on the edge of that lifter to keep it from digging into the cam.
 
It's just amazing that back in the late 70s and all through the 80s, we slapped engines together, started them up and drove them down the street and never thought about it. Never had a problem, either. Not one.
and there wasn't a bevel on the edge of the lifter face. lol
 
Stone. Fine stone like sharpening stone and carefully "45" bevel

You could also use fine sandpaper on a flat surface. Glass or even good flat steel, etc

I would not use anything "powered"
This, just enough to remove a burr and nothing more. Those burrs can come loose later.
 
When I was young and broke, I would put used lifters on a new cam. Never lost a cam. No break in either. Start and idle then go. What the hell has changed so much.
We will likely never know the accurate answer to that question. I just went through the problem and I still cannot nail it down, exactly. This time, I did it all by the book. ZDDP paste, rotated the cam by hand to assure the lifters rotated in their bores, the whole bit. It seems to have turned out good.

The only thing I did this time that I did not last time was, I had the new lifters refaced by @NC Engine Builder Sean. I did not do that with the new Summit cam and lifters last time and had a failure. Everything else was done the same. Was it the fact that I did not have the new Summit lifters refaced? Who's to say? That is the only thing that was different, other than the fact that Summit cams and lifters are now made in China and the cam I used this time is an older Crane Fireball from the 1980s.

Although three years ago, it was NOS, now it has three years worth of run time on it, although minimal mileage in that time. Under 5K I am sure. Also of note is the fact that now this Crane cam has successfully broken in THREE sets of lifters on top of it. The original set three years ago failed, because when hot, they sounded like solid lifters. They were Crower Cam Saver lifters. After some reading, it appears in some applications, they bleed down too quickly and cause noise. So out they came after about a week. I then put in a new set of Melling lifters and drive the truck until it lost oil pressure back in February.

Once the engine was cleaned up and reassembled, I decided to go with a new cam and lifters from Summit, because one or two of the Melling lifters on the Crane cam looked what I can only describe as "suspect" for not rotating. Although their faces were still convex, they had a straight across witness mark, as if they hadn't rotated. The Crane cam however, looked pristine.

The cam replacement proved to be a mistake and the Summit cam and lifters very quickly failed. I had valve train noise within the first hour of running and a filter full of metal filings. So the engine came back down, cleaned again and here we are now with the old used Crane Fireball back in, with the new refaced lifters on top of it.

I will say this with 100% certainty. I believe the Summit cam and lifters 100% failed due to being a poor, inferior product. Period. Whether it was because the lifters were not finished properly, bad metallurgy, I am convinced that it was indeed a parts failure whether through poor machine finishing, poor metallurgy or both.
 
I just got them back from the machine shop and going through them again. I noticed the edges of SOME of the lifters feel like a dull knife edge. Not like hair shaving edge but sharp enough to scrape off some finger nail. They fit in the lifter bores just fine. These are new Johnson HY-LIFT. They may have been fine but I just wanted to make sure. They do look better. The convex seems to be centered better. I have left a message with the machine shop but have not heard back from them but I'm sure I will.
I'm just wondering what proceedures would be used to relieve this edge or maybe its not an issue.
Do us a favor and post some pics of the lifters!

Did you have new ones re-ground to correct the tolerances or were used ones re-ground?

What cam specs are they going with? How much did it cost? Who did them?

Also keep us posted on the break in results!
 

Do us a favor and post some pics of the lifters!

Did you have new ones re-ground to correct the tolerances or were used ones re-ground?

What cam specs are they going with? How much did it cost? Who did them?

Also keep us posted on the break in results!
I think I can do most of that. I'm not sure I have pics before Oregan cams resurfaced them.
 
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