reworking a fully restored car

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Well I thought I had this thing licked but I showed it to a friend yesterday and it turns out there is three oval patches about 4 inches long that have cracked like a dry river bed DOH ! the paint supplier showed me the manufactures sheets and apparently I did something wrong either to thick on the base coat or not enough flash time for the temp between coats or a full moon who knows but it looks like I will be sanding and recoating from scratch ie.. primer , paint , clear -eff me gently .
 
I'm so sorry to hear that. It's a scenario like that which holds me back from thinking about primering and painting.
 
I just read through the whole thread and I sure understand why you want to get the word out about the shop that did the work. 50K??? I know some shops around here that will bleed guys for all they're worth but the honest shops try to overestimate costs so that the customer knows in advance what they're getting into and have a chance to back out before they're in too deep.

Great work on areas you've done. Is there anything questionable about the rest of the car forward?
 
1967 'cuda said:
I just read through the whole thread and I sure understand why you want to get the word out about the shop that did the work. 50K??? I know some shops around here that will bleed guys for all they're worth but the honest shops try to overestimate costs so that the customer knows in advance what they're getting into and have a chance to back out before they're in too deep.

Great work on areas you've done. Is there anything questionable about the rest of the car forward?
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I would say that given all that I have redone both body wise and mechanically that everything remaining that hasn't been redone has a big question mark over it eh ! Going to redo the paint on the valance first and am already in the midst of refreshing the stroker I put in after the #s 318 this guy worked on went sideways (I have since rebuilt it with the help of a FABO member and it sits pretty in the corner of the garage where #s 318s belong ) so the body forward of this round of rework will have to wait until those tasks at hand are complete .
 
Mopar92 said:
That car doesn't look even restored at all. $50k. Lawyer up.
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It looked damn good when I got it back 6 years ago , thousands of people have seen it at shows and commented on how good it looked proving you may not be able to polish a turd but you sure can candy coat it , read back theres no Lawyer up for a cash job especially one this old .
 
cannucky said:
I would say that given all that I have redone both body wise and mechanically that everything remaining that hasn't been redone has a big question mark over it eh !
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I don't suppose you could dig up pictures of the car before you took it to him. I'd definitely be concentrating my attention to any areas he reworked.
 
Even if you could get a lawyer involved, it ends up being a rocky road. The original body man who worked on my car filed for bankruptcy after I filed a lawsuit against him. Now it just becomes a long drawn out affair that at best will return pennies on the dollar. It is so frustrating to see how these criminals prey on the car owner all to often.
 
Thats kind of my point when people say lawyer up . As for old pics well I have some actual photographs but given all that I've found I' m just going to keep working my way forward in sections . the fender , doors quarters etc .... Are good it's the bones that are suspect the over the diff panel is good which is why I stopped where I did , the wheel houses have some questionable spots so they are next and can be done from the inside without screwing up the paint , There will most likely be some future frame rail replacement and I'll have to see how the front floors look when I get into that but again this can be done without getting into the exterior paint .
 
cannucky said:
As for old pics well I have some actual photographs but given all that I've found I' m just going to keep working my way forward in sections . the fender , doors quarters etc .... Are good it's the bones that are suspect the over the diff panel is good which is why I stopped where I did , the wheel houses have some questionable spots so they are next and can be done from the inside without screwing up the paint , There will most likely be some future frame rail replacement and I'll have to see how the front floors look when I get into that but again this can be done without getting into the exterior paint .
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That's a relief!
 
Ditto what Kevin said, damn shame. I'm assuming they sold you waterborne base clear, flash off time is real important too little and it will fail miserably so give it lots of time. Most systems give up to 24 hours to get the clear on so make sure all the water is out. You can speed this up by gently blowing air on it.
 
Swinger340Canuc said:
Ditto what Kevin said, damn shame. I'm assuming they sold you waterborne base clear, flash off time is real important too little and it will fail miserably so give it lots of time. Most systems give up to 24 hours to get the clear on so gmake sure all the water is out. You can speed this up by gently blowing air on it.
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No the paint is a colour matched single stage custom mixed in a rattle can , all I'm painting is the lower rear valance.It had a tiny bit of orange peel to it so I let it cure for like a week before I clear coated it , it was all good for months but now has this crackling has appearred .
 
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