Roller Cam for LA?

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69superbee

Pete E
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Location
N.E Florida
I Have a 360 0.30 over 9.8.1 pistons with a set of ported J heads 2.02 valves

I was wonder what my options would be with going to a hydrolic roller cam also what are the pros and cons of going with this type of camshaft in a LA block.

should free up some more horse power. if so how more of a gain can I expect to see?

I would guess that roller rockers would be a must. ( have them )

I would like the RPM range to work from 1800-6500.

I have heard horror stories about the retro roller lifters, is there a drop in roller lifter that would not require any machine work?

I am guessing that the cam would not be much larger than .500 lift

what kind of gains would I expect to see over my .480 .480 -280 lunati cam

More info on my car is as follows.

68 barracuda coupe says 3100lbs on the title I am guessing in current trim with me in it it weighs about 3400.lbs

410 SG 8 3/4 ( added this year )
727 manual valve body. 2800 stall converter.
super stock springs and shocks. (added this year )
frame connectors. ( added this year )
M1 dual plane intake- I have access to a M1 single but the M-1 dual makes a ton of bottom end torque. reminds me of an old LD 340.
750 quick fuel carb
28'' ET streets.


last year I ran 13.92 @ just over 100 best ET.
on street tires.
8 1/4 2.76 open (awful 60's ) spinning all they way through 1st.
wore out stock springs and shocks.
shifting at 5600 and not even pulling high gear. discovered that I had a bad valve spring was missing past 5600.

The math says it should run 13.63 so I hope to see a improvement this year.

any suggestions would most welcome. I want to have a respectable time this season.

Pete
If get it to hook it should run about 13.00 @ 108 mph ( I hope )

my cuda123.jpg
 
None of the current retro fit hydraulic roller lifters drop in. All that I know of require some grinding in the valley area to for tie-bar/button clearance.

Another deal is that if you go to certain lift levels, the lifter oil band uncovers causing oil pressure issues. A smaller base circle camshaft helps here.

Depending on the heads you use, you may need to clearance the pushrod holes.

You'll need some pretty decent duration to get 6500 RPM and hyd rollers don't tend to like much over about 6200-6300. No chance you get an effective RPM as wide as you requested (1800-6500) The cam to get 6500 will need in the 240-248* range, lifts in the 530-550 area. A cam that starts about 1800 would have 224-226*, You usually get about a 3500-4000 rpm power range, pick you start point. With 3000 stall and 4.10's you could run something a little more aggressive.

My guess your car currently should MPH with the 2.76's in the 102.-103 range. At 100 it's a little short and may be due to the inability to rev issue.

If you are serious about building a hyd roller engine, call Brian at Indio Motor Machine, IMMengines.com . He can get you a Comp Cam cut with a reduced base circle and any flavor you want for very reasonable cost.
 
Thanks Crackedback,


more reailistic would be a cam in the RPM range of 2500 to 6000 then ?

I should stay with a flat tappet cam and just go with a little more lift and touch more duration.

would a solid roller be a better choice? with a little more duration and lift.

what are the pros and cons of a solid,or a solid roller?

I still would like to drive the car on the street mostly with a some moderate track duty.

This whole cam thing a mystery to me .

I was going to go a bit bigger with my cam choice but, I went with the old rule of thumb ( think about what ya want and then go smaller to make the correct choice. ) I was afraid I was going to over cam the motor when I built it . Well I think I went a little too small because it need a touch more cam in it.

Any suggestions at this point would be most helpful.


Pete
 
Brian at IMM ground a small base circle retrofit hydraulic roller cam for me. The off the shelf cams caused the oil grooves in the lifters to come out of the lifter bore. The smaller base circle cam resolved that issue. Brian charged me less then an off the shelf cam from Crane plus the cam is maximized for my combination. Since every combination is different a custom ground cam is the best route to take.

Nice thing about a roller cam is no break in. Roller cams also tend to give a broader torque curve too. The only down side is cost.

I used Crane Retrofit Roller Lifters and they required minimum grinding to get them to drop in, minimum. Brian has solid lifters that require no grinding because the link bar goes toward the middle of the engine. If you don't mind adjust valves every once in a while I'd go solid roller and have Brian set you up with the right parts for your needs. Brian is very easy to work with too.

LifterGrindAreas.jpg
 
Thanks 340.

Cams are one of the trickiest things to make the right selection for a comination IMO.



Pete
 
Brian at IMM ground a small base circle retrofit hydraulic roller cam for me. The off the shelf cams caused the oil grooves in the lifters to come out of the lifter bore. The smaller base circle cam resolved that issue. Brian charged me less then an off the shelf cam from Crane plus the cam is maximized for my combination. Since every combination is different a custom ground cam is the best route to take.

Nice thing about a roller cam is no break in. Roller cams also tend to give a broader torque curve too. The only down side is cost.

I used Crane Retrofit Roller Lifters and they required minimum grinding to get them to drop in, minimum. Brian has solid lifters that require no grinding because the link bar goes toward the middle of the engine. If you don't mind adjust valves every once in a while I'd go solid roller and have Brian set you up with the right parts for your needs. Brian is very easy to work with too.

Could you post contact info please?
 
I think I will go with a solid roller... seems like more of a drop in deal to me.

I will do a bit more research before I decide.

I want to see how it runs with the upgrades that I have made over the winter . I should see some pretty good gains over what I had last year.
 

You should be in the 12.70-80 range with your set up.. I went with a solid purple shaft with a similar engine combo. I have an AirGap intake, best of both worlds, nice bottom end, still pullin past 6200..

Bob
 
The best time to decide roller is the first build. I dont use hydraulic rollers much, because flat tappets make similar power and are cheaper. A hydraulic roller is limited just as any hydraulic lifter is, except it costs more, needs to fit, and can cause oiling issues. So I use a flat tappet solid, or go solid roller and use lifter bore bushigns to sole the oiling issues.
 
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