Roller cam

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Unsure how a 60ft time even affects a bracket car. I do not have much compression and my convertor is way too tight and flashes too low, my R/T doesn't suffer but the 60 ft time isnt bad considering. Now if I had the right converter for an all out race setup i know it would be even better. Any race car shoudl have tghe right convertor. Mine was used for the sesson becasue I had nothing else and wasn't ready to drop the change or putt eh car back apart.

As far as torque which someone else mentioned, I didn't see the wide LSA hurt the torque, but that's just me.

I suggested he could go narrower with his LSA to boost his cranking compression instead of changing hard parts.

if you read my post i didnt say it effects it other than to say its worse.
A bracket car is about consistency, nothing else. I know that.
What i said was( reread my post) is that in a typical N/A bracket car the wide LSA cam will be a dog compared to a narrower LSA cam. The 60 foot will be doggier too. Maybe you like doggier, i dont.
My goal is to get my car to run as good as its capable of, then try and make it consistent. Some guy make them consistent by putting big tires on, others having a good suspension, etc.
Everybody is different. But i would never put something in my car knowing it will slow the car down.
I also said “ typical”
Now if you have lots of compression, real good heads, lighter car, dont mind spinning it....a wider LSA cam “might” work better.
Pro stock guys run wide lsa cams. Stock/ superstock guys dont.
Do you have any ideas why that is?
See what i said just about for a clue
 
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Car is strictly drag. 3500 lbs. 10.7 comp. home ported Eddy’s, solid cam 272 at .050 and .660 lift, tunnel ram and two 800 dp, 5000 stall and 4.30 gears. Best e.t. Is 10.48 at 130. Leaning towards the smaller of the two cams for better torque with the tunnel ram.

This is a big block? How many inches? Have you talked to any of the well respected cam companies for a recommendation?
 
if you read my post i didnt say it effects it other than to say its worse.

Now if you have lots of compression, real good heads, lighter car, dont mind spinning it....a wider LSA cam “might” work better.
Pro stock guys run wide lsa cams. Stock/ superstock guys dont.
Do you have any ideas why that is?
See what i said just about for a clue

I do have great heads. I don't spin it at all. I make peak tQ at 4500 and peak HP at 5900.

What's a doggy 60ft time? 1.40's? I don't know. My car is not a race car. I was happy to leave a little performance on the table to trade for function.

Some of what we are talking about here is definitely subjective.
 
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I do have great heads. I don't spin it at all. I make peak tQ at 4500 and peak HP at 5900.

What's a doggy 60ft time? 1.40's? I don't know. My car is not a race car. I was happy to leave a little performance on the table to trade for function.

Some of what we are talking about here is definitely subjective.
I believe most racers on here would kill for 1.40 - 60ft times.
 
I do have great heads. I don't spin it at all. I make peak tQ at 4500 and peak HP at 5900.

What's a doggy 60ft time? 1.40's? I don't know. My car is not a race car. I was happy to leave a little performance on the table to trade for function.

Some of what we are talking about here is definitely subjective.

not sure what combination you even have.
Doggy 60’ would depend on what the car should be capable of compared to what it actually does.
What do you have. Car, motor, trans, weight, heads, compression, etc

again, i said a wide LSA cam in a typical NA car will slow it down. I stand by that.
Have seen it on the track.
I mentioned in earlier posts why, and some exceptions to the rule.
 
61. Big block 440. Mbaird. Nice cam. Who ground it for you? I was going to call racer brown,Howard’s. My friend runs a custom clay smith and likes it a lot. Anyone run a clay smith cam.
 
not sure what combination you even have.
Doggy 60’ would depend on what the car should be capable of compared to what it actually does.
What do you have. Car, motor, trans, weight, heads, compression, etc

again, i said a wide LSA cam in a typical NA car will slow it down. I stand by that.
Have seen it on the track.
I mentioned in earlier posts why, and some exceptions to the rule.

My car is 100% slowed down due to the wide LSA. I agree with that and knew that when my head porter had the cam cut. However it is a street car, and I care more about that then squeezing every ounce out at the track.

My car is a dart, 440, 727 w/GVOD, 3450lb race weight, 3180 w/o me, max worked perf RPM heads, 10:1 compression, cranking compression was 160, never checked it after cam change.
 
My car is 100% slowed down due to the wide LSA. I agree with that and knew that when my head porter had the cam cut. However it is a street car, and I care more about that then squeezing every ounce out at the track.

My car is a dart, 440, 727 w/GVOD, 3450lb race weight, 3180 w/o me, max worked perf RPM heads, 10:1 compression, cranking compression was 160, never checked it after cam change.

to give you an idea, mine is a 3300 with me street car. 9.5 compression stock stroke 360( bonestock bottom end) eddie heads that were just on a bench last night in fact( they go 256@550) in other words, very little work. 106 LSA cam
1.52 60 foot. Has run 11.26 at almost 119, shifting it at 6100.
I drive it everywhere. If the heads were any good( they soon will be) it would have ran in the 10’s without working up a sweat. Stroker motor now in the works
Ran max 180 degrees all the time, at the track its won money a few times, its consistent as all get out...lol..its better than the driver.
But to me, its about as good as can be expected, thats what i try to do, and it doesn't suffer anywhere.
In your case i don't see where the proper cam would make it less streetable.
 
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Rocco. What does it cost to get the rpms max ported.

Depends where you go to get them done and what you have done. Mine are max ported with 2.20 intake valves. Ported intake as well. Mine were done by hand but on 2 separate benches outflow the best CNC jobs I've seen advertised. Cost? IDK, mine wasn't just a port job.
 
to give you an idea, mine is a 3300 with me street car. 9.5 compression stock stroke 360( bonestock bottom end) eddie heads that were just on a bench last night in fact( they go 256@550) in other words, very little work. 106 LSA cam
1.52 60 foot. Has run 11.26 at almost 119, shifting it at 6100.
I drive it everywhere. If the heads were any good( they soon will be) it would have ran in the 10’s without working up a sweat. Stroker motor now in the works
Ran max 180 degrees all the time, at the track its won money a few times, its consistent as all get out...lol..its better than the driver.
But to me, its about as good as can be expected, thats what i try to do, and it doesn't suffer anywhere.
In your case i don't see where the proper cam would make it less streetable.


I do not like choppy, lopey idles and I do not like fast ramp power curves. That's just me. My circle track car...that's cut on a 104 LSA. Fast ramp coming off the corners, idle means nothing.
 
I believe most racers on here would kill for 1.40 - 60ft times.

70 Hemi Cuda running F.A.S.T class around 9.50ish and a 60ft of 1.67
I am sure he his cam is a 112+ . That is why he can run a 9.50 car with a "slow" 60ft. Getting a car like that to hook on bias plys is magic !
FAST requires the car to sound stock as well...
Different classes and cars require unique cam profiles .

61. Big block 440. Mbaird. Nice cam. Who ground it for you? I was going to call racer brown,Howard’s. My friend runs a custom clay smith and likes it a lot. Anyone run a clay smith cam.

This cam was spec'd by Ryan at Shady Dell when he ported my W2's a few years before his disappearance.

440 ? I have a 360 with a 4" stroke .... 408 ci . Not a big block.
 
i'm still not buying the torque bit with wide LSA cams.

If the engine makes big torque at whatever RPM and your converter is optimized for that engine i'm not seeing the "soft" leave

Also, it has been my experience that that curves are flatter. They make tq and HP early, and keep making it. For a street car this means power all the time and a car that is more forgiving.
 
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i'm still not buying the torque bit with wide LSA cams.

If the engine makes big torque at whatever RPM and your converter is optimized for that engine i'm not seeing the "soft" leave

Also, it has been my experience that that curves are flatter. They make tq and HP early, and keep making it. For a street car this means power all the time and a car that is more forgiving.

if you raced a lot and had tried swapping cams around in known combo’s you would change your mind.
 
if you raced a lot and had tried swapping cams around in known combo’s you would change your mind.


YOu are talking optimal and maximal race performance. i'm talking about a consistent well functioning street car that can drag race. In the earlier mentioned case with a FAST car, some of us are happy with 1.60 shorts and 9 second passes. I'm happy with 1.40-1.50 shorts and 10 second passes. This is all subjective.
 
Imo, this is a better representation of what’s going on than focusing on one data point:

DF42A145-8C10-45BF-A360-C7E20395D2F8.png
 
That graph help me with a little misconception of my own.

I have always felt that for the "street"(classification of street, in this insistence......1200-1500 stall speed vacuum brake, vehicle) that the 113 would have more bottom end grunt..........and it might, in a tip in, throttle test. But in a full throttle test, 101 make more torque and stays ahead of the curve all the way threw.
However, vacuum restraints make the 113, hand down better all around "street" application
 
That graph help me with a little misconception of my own.

I have always felt that for the "street"(classification of street, in this insistence......1200-1500 stall speed vacuum brake, vehicle) that the 113 would have more bottom end grunt..........and it might, in a tip in, throttle test. But in a full throttle test, 101 make more torque and stays ahead of the curve all the way threw.
However, vacuum restraints make the 113, hand down better all around "street" application


If you have a carb, and if you work with the tune up long enough (how long depends on how good you are and how effective your O2 meter is) the “tight” LSA will lose no driveablity and it will idle as low as you want to go.

I can get mine to idle at 750 and I’m not that close yet.
 
Imo, this is a better representation of what’s going on than focusing on one data point:

View attachment 1715622048

The 2 biggest take aways are more torque and a fast ramp. The differences aren't anything crazy but as far as all out performance, the lower LSA always wins.

There is more to it than just numbers on a graph though. I would not want my street/strip car to perform or behave like my circle track car does. My circle track car has a 104LSA and my SS car has a 112 LSA. My fathers big block has a muthr thumpr cam and sounds cool. Not very fun or forgiving to drive on the street. We are also talking about N/A cars here. BIgger and smaller LSA's both have their place. Every car doesn't need a 101LSA cam nor does every car need a 114LSa.
 
Very true.

When I’m talking to a customer about a cam for a street/strip build, it’s pretty rare that “maximum power” is at the top of the priority list.

Be interesting to see how those cams would have compared with 1-5/8” headers on the motor, with a full length crimp bent 2-1/2” exhaust and some cheap turbo mufflers.

I’m probably just getting old, but for something I’m actually going to “drive”, I really don’t want the idle to be overly rowdy.
This is about right for me these days....... post 83:
New build. 505"

It could be a bit rowdier than that if I wasn’t driving it much.
 
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I do have great heads. I don't spin it at all. I make peak tQ at 4500 and peak HP at 5900.

What's a doggy 60ft time? 1.40's? I don't know. My car is not a race car. I was happy to leave a little performance on the table to trade for function.

Some of what we are talking about here is definitely subjective.

your car run mid 6 et in 1/8
 
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