SB stroker guys - what fuel line diam and what carb?

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Moparmal

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Id like to hear from the bigger cube SB guys - what diam fuel line you are running and what carb...

Just sounding out what mods Ill need to do to the fuel system for the 318/390....
 
416 stroker..3/8" fuel line and sending unit..850 quick fuel race carb.
 
What are you doing with it Mal? I forget...
Click to expand...

318 stroker with a 4" crank - 750 AFB, Carter electric pump, Roush tank cannister filter.

Id prefer to go .5" or -8, but finding a suitable male or female threaded fitting for the carb top plate is the problem atm.

The existing brass threaded female fitting is way too small in internal diameter.........:-k
 
For a race car, or stree? I would run std 3/8 steel for a street car to keep things simple. If you are racing, I'd run a -10 to the pump, then -8 to the regulator, and -6 to the carb. If you just really like braided and the fuel pump is deadheaded, the '6 will be fine.
 
moper said:
For a race car, or stree? I would run std 3/8 steel for a street car to keep things simple. If you are racing, I'd run a -10 to the pump, then -8 to the regulator, and -6 to the carb. If you just really like braided and the fuel pump is deadheaded, the '6 will be fine.
Click to expand...
I ran 1/2" aluminum line from tank to engine simple and cheap. still have a lot left over.

January 09 155.jpg
 
I'd do what there leading to, build my own. Since your running a Carter carb right???? I'd drill and tap the otherside and run the line like moper said. Though, it wouold have to be a really serious engine for more than a 1/2 inch line.

You could do dual 3/8's off the carb to the split/regulator and half on back from there. That would be enuff to feed quite a monster.
 
Thanks for the feedback-

Its been suggested to use 1/2" fuel line - in case I want to go with more HP later -



Biggest problem with running 1/2" fuel line is the carb fitting - no-one seems to make make an AN fitting with a 5/8-20 thread for the AFB .

So two questions -

1. - Will 3/8ths work fine for a street/strip 400HP 390 stroker?

2. - Is it worthwhile running 1/2 line from the tank/pump to my canister filter (see pic) in the engine bay, and 3/8 line from the filter to one side of the carb?

(Fuel and oil filters )

P1010006-1.jpg


Also - RFish - I like your idea, but Ive already tapped the other side of the fuel bowl for a return line back to the tank - Fuel vapourisation in the bowls can be a problem in our climate, so one quick fix is to recycle the fuel in the bowl back to the pump at the back.
 
I guess that would be a heat issue huh? Hot outside the car?
 
I run a Carter TQ on my 71 Demon NHRA stocker and I had a friend of mine machine the fitting for my TQ. He did a great job and it works perfect with the -8 braided line. I can give you the contact info if you would like.

Ken
Edison, NJ
[email protected]
 
rumblefish360 said:
I guess that would be a heat issue huh? Hot outside the car?
Click to expand...

Yep - the AFBs are prone to fuel bowl heat transference, and the under hood space is not huge in our Oz Valiants, so that doesn't help and means we cant run big spacers.

Holleys don't seem to have the same issue..but at $5.00 a gallon a Carter/Eddie is a smart investment for a street driven car. ;)


Its ambient heat from the ashpalt and traffic combined with long idle periods at the stop lights or in the staging lanes - so we block the heat cross over, run a return line and a shroud with electric fans or clutch fans.

Physixx - thanks for the offer, I'll find someone on this side of the pacific:-D ;)
 
416 #8 line from the tank to the reg. # 8 from the reg to the carb. PF 950HP carb. Clay Smith mech. pump. 10.59 @ 125.94 69 Dart. Jim
 
408 1/2 " steel braided fuel line all the way through- pro systems 950 race carb
Aerospace 350 GPH electric fuel pump
 
I wont use the aluminum tubing on the street. I've had a couple start to leak after some street m iles. There's just too much vibration and flexing in that application. Braid or steel on a street car. Also, if you do use it... use the right hardware.. it needs to have padded clamps and grommets where ever it goes thru steel or it will rub thru in no time.
 
Ill be removing the existing hard line and running the new line in its place using padded "P" clamps.
 
408ci 1/2'' stainless steel line with street hp holley 750 manual secondaries areomotive electric pump [regulated] 7-7 1/2 lbs
 
I run a 3/8" steel reproduction line and 3/8" sending unit with a Holley 750 DP.
 
an8 from the tank to the regulator an6 from the regulator to each end of the 1000cfm Demon. 7 lbs pressure. 340 stroked to 416.
 
For a 400hp 390ci stroker, 3/8" would be fine. Plus 3/8" sending units are about half as much as a 1/2" unit! If you do plan to go more wild in the future, then it would make sense to go 1/2" while your at it.
 
Mines a 408 w/factory fuel line and a carter high volume fuel pump. I'm running a holly 780 street advenger carb. Just took it to the strip last week and put 7 runs on it back to back with no fuel problem at all. For my motor all that extra work of new fuel lines would be over kill. I Think what helps my car is that was used as a driver when I bought it. If you buy a car that has been setting up the line are probably full of junk. jmo
 
Think ahead... a long way ahead to any possible options you might want to try.
build your fuel system once and build it right, you won't have to worry about it ever again.

Here is what I'm finishing up installing for a fuel system on my turbo 318 which will get swapped for a 360 or 408.
Granted its probably extreme over kill for what your thinking. But maybe it will help.

Fuelsystemcost.jpg
 
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