shift shaft seal replacement

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Drop the pan and valve body out. Drive the seal up and out from the bottom. Use all thread, large washer and nut to make a small slide hammer to install new seal.
Replace the neutral safety switch and throttle valve shaft seal while you have the valve body out.
I buy the seals at a local family run tranny shop.
 
ahh...that makes sense I was trying to figure how to do from the top, I was going to service the trans anyway, I will pull the valve body, pay attention to the little ball and do both seals, thanks guys, you see this is why I love 4 speeds and dis-like auto's so much, lol
 
I did it on my 70 dart with a slant 6 and a 904. I did it with the trans in the car and WITHOUT pulling the pan. It took about an hour to do while laying on the floor in the garage. It was my first time doing the job as well. I do know that there is a special tool to remove the seals, but I didn't need it. A flat blade screwdriver pryed the seal perfectly for the shift seal. And the TV shaft seal popped out with a pick.
 
well redram you must have smaller paws than mine or the Dart has more clearance because there isn't very much room to work above the seal in the Duster, however I was going to change the trans fluid anyway, I already bought the filter kit, for less than 10 bucks I cant go wrong there, so if the valve body is only 6 bolts after that to drop from the bottom I think I will just go that route, to be honest I didn't even want to do it as we are putting an a833 in it anyway but my son hasn't rounded up all the parts he needs for the swap yet so it looks like one more season of the auto, thanks for the tip though
 
I dropped the pan and valve body, replaced seals, all back together, no leaks at the pan, all good. A short time later the front seal at convertor started leaking. The seals are all the same age so I should have expected another failure. Good luck
 
There is a tool for this job, makes it much easier. Prying out the seal is not the way to go. The tool threads into the seal and pulls it out.

The only issue is that there is stuff in the way but once you get it threaded, it should be easier. The tool can range from $15-$100 depending on where you buy it from.

Go to this thread here on Moparts, scroll down to the second to last post, you will see how to do this.
 
mopar56 said:
well redram you must have smaller paws than mine or the Dart has more clearance because there isn't very much room to work above the seal in the Duster, however I was going to change the trans fluid anyway, I already bought the filter kit, for less than 10 bucks I cant go wrong there, so if the valve body is only 6 bolts after that to drop from the bottom I think I will just go that route, to be honest I didn't even want to do it as we are putting an a833 in it anyway but my son hasn't rounded up all the parts he needs for the swap yet so it looks like one more season of the auto, thanks for the tip though
Click to expand...

There is PLENTY if room once you unbolt the trans crossmember and let the motor and trans tilt back. Once you loosen the two small bolts for the shift and TV levers and remove them, it becomes easy to see the whole "operation". I used a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pop the old shift shaft seal out and used a large socket to install the new one with a few taps of a hammer. The kickdown seal is a little trickier. I used a very small pair of visegrips at the top of the shaft to keep it from falling down into the pan. There is a small C clip and washer that hold the seal in. Remove the clip, washer and seal and slide them up as high as you can. Hold the shaft just under the seal and remove your visegrips, slide the old stuff off. Slide the new seal and washer on. Clamp your vise grips back on and slide the seal into position, reinstall the washer and clip. Reinstall the linkage and your done. It's a simple quick and easy job.

Pull the pan and valvebody if you want. It's just whatever you're comfortable with. However, you plan to do it. Good luck and have fun!
 
Yep, dropping the crossmember helps a ton for the extra room.

One thing I would like to add is that a short section of all thread can also be used like a threaded press by lining up the seal and tightening one of the nuts (on the bottom or top either one)

Also unless you are some big clumsy gorilla taking the large seal out of the case by prying it out is fine.
You just stay inside the steel shell of the seal with the screwdriver and pop it out of there.
Removal tools for GM and ford transmissions are much more mandatory just because of needing to remove the seals with the sector shaft still in there.
 
Ok, well all good info, but I already have the gasket/filter kit and the fluid needs a change so we will already be half way there, I think I will make a tool with some ready rod or a bolt when I am at that stage, this looks like a next week project as it seems my weekend is already full now, lol, thanks for the help, BTW, did anyone have the seal part numbers?
 
mopar56 said:
BTW, did anyone have the seal part numbers?
Click to expand...

I can't find a part number anywhere (maybe a manual has it) but this is THE man when it comes to TF transmission parts online.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torqueflite...l-Shaft-Kickdown-Shaft-Seal-Set-/221708801263

I don't think I would pay 30 bucks for them though if you can find them somewhere else.
Mine came from an online parts place and I think it was about 11 bucks for both those seals and the tail shaft seal with the boot.
Problem is, I can't seem to locate the info on them.

I'll look some more and chime in if I find it.

Here it is: http://transpartsonline.com/tpfile/tpcat.asp?TransPartsOnline=904&TransPartsType=904

Those two seals are listed in separate catagories (Clad seals for the shifter post, and gaskets and Orings for the kickdown shaft seal.

(About 5 bucks for both) and if I remember right the shipping was pretty quick.
 
I went to the dealer to get mine. I think they were around $12
 
1994redram said:
I went to the dealer to get mine. I think they were around $12
Click to expand...

Every time I go to the dealer here all the salesmen run out and try to talk me into trading my Dart in, so I just don't go there any more.
 
Ok, found them locally for under 20 bucks no shipping, will be here by Monday, thanks for the help, BTW, any one ever put a auto Indy stick on one of these?, I have a NOS Indy stick, universal application, had it for years and never used it, when we do the four speed swap we are using a auto consul the we are converting to four speed, I thought until we do the conversion we could install the Indy stick in the mean time then he could at least floor shift it and install the consul, what do you think, any one done it?
 
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