Shop layout recommendations?

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RustyRatRod said:
Keep in mind the bottom of the vehicle will be much higher than that 6'-2".
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Strange. I coulda swore it said it’s 6’2” lift height WITH the adapters but I just went and double checked and it’s 6’ 9” lift with the adapters. That said, IF I can fit the 9000 in the shop, I’m still probably gonna go with that one because it doesn’t have anything on the floor between the post, like the 8000 does.
 
75slant6 said:
Strange. I coulda swore it said it’s 6’2” lift height WITH the adapters but I just went and double checked and it’s 6’ 9” lift with the adapters. That said, IF I can fit the 9000 in the shop, I’m still probably gonna go with that one because it doesn’t have anything on the floor between the post, like the 8000 does.
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Yes but you need to understand, the bottom of the VEHICLE will be above that 6' - 9" because you put the adapters on the frame. The frame is lower than the underpinnings of the vehicle, so the rest will be above that. You're still a tall dude, though.
 
When I bought my house it had to have room to build my shop and extra garage . Set backs limited the width to 24' for the shop . I needed 12'3" clearance for the BendPac asymmetrical Twin post lift . To avoid engineering I kept the length to 34' . To get the height I needed we did a 2' concrete stem wall and 2"x6"x10' framing to to get the 12' plate height . To get the lift clearance I used scissor truss' .
For the lift I put 6" concrete in the area of the lift and 4" for the rest of the slab . Check with your lift manufacture for floor spec's for 2 post lifts , it will save your neck .

In the shop I added a 2 1/2' shelf along both sides of the shop and a 4' shelf across the front .
Also added forced HVAC to the shop and a ceiling fan over the forward area of the lift .
I added outlets 4' over the floor every 4' all around the shop on 4 circuits along with a 220v outlet for the welder . The windows on the side are mounted with the bottom at 63' above the floor , they are for light not looking out of . I also tied into the whole house Vacuum system , make clean up a breeze .

The Extra Garage is 24' x 28' with a 11' high door at both ends . The air compressor has its own compartment in the corner with 220v . The outlets are again 4' off the floor every 4' on 3 circuits . The HVAC servers the both the extra garage and the main garage .

The Main Garage is 28' x 40' with a 10'x28' bay separating the Extra Garage , and a 10'x20' bay separating the Shop from the main garage . The Main garage has a 1/2 bath room with a deep sink . I decorated it as a Texaco Station bathroom .

1st Picture as I bought the house .
2nd Pic under construction .
3rd pic Shop .
4th pic Extra Garage and compressor compartment .
5th pic Extra Garage double stack parking .
6th pic Extra Garage packed parking .
7th pic Extra Garage getting new roof last year with Airstream and double stack parking .
8th pic front of shop .
9th pic inside shop with enough space to park next to lift .
10th pic Texaco bathroom in Main Garage .
11th pic how it looks after construction .
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75slant6 said:
All great suggestions that I’ve read here so far. That said, here’s the story to clear up a few things. My wife and I are selling our farm (closing next week) and therefore I’m losing my two shops/garages. This project is redoing a dilapidated old shed on dads farm for my brother and I to use until we get a shop built at our new place. Once my new shop is built, we’ll still use this shop some, since my brother lives just down the road from dads but majority of work will be done in my new shop. We’ll be running power and water over from dads primary barn. I’d considered radiant heat in the floor, but since we’re trying to get this done as cheaply as possible (more details in the videos in my original thread) we’re going to forego that in this shop and use a wood stove for now, and propane heat later.
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You can’t afford to skip this step. The PEX is cheap and you can add the remaining components later. I insulated around my foundation and under the floor. I heat a 1250 square foot building with a small on demand water heater. I doubt I have much over $1500 in the entire heating system including the PEX.
 
Hemirunner said:
You can’t afford to skip this step. The PEX is cheap and you can add the remaining components later. I insulated around my foundation and under the floor. I heat a 1250 square foot building with a small on demand water heater. I doubt I have much over $1500 in the entire heating system including the PEX.
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Well, the nice thing is, we were planning on concreting this weekend and I didn’t wanna spend the $1000+ for the insulation, but plans changed, we’re not concreting it this weekend after all, so now I’ve got more time to mull it over.
 
If you are planning to install a 2 post lift be sure to read the manufactures instructions about the floor requirements .
Nothing worse then the lift pulling out of the floor or the floor cracking and dropping the lift with a vehicle on it .
 
GGs66GT said:
If you are planning to install a 2 post lift be sure to read the manufactures instructions about the floor requirements .
Nothing worse then the lift pulling out of the floor or the floor cracking and dropping the lift with a vehicle on it .
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Atlas requires a minimum of 4” of 3000 psi for either the 8000 or 9000 lift. I’m going to be doing 5” throughout the entire shop
 
You'll be glad you put in the bathroom... Put in a small pit & drain for washing vehicles... Really makes it nice washing vehicles in the winter... add a large cement approach outside... (to wash things off or do a quick job outside...) Deep sink out side bathroom for washing greasy hands or cleaning up parts... Possibly water spigot on drain end for washing vehicles...possibly a water spigot on outside of shop...220 for welder... Put in PLENTY of electrical plug ins & AIR drops... Can never have enough of either..Put in Plenty of lights. Don't know how high your ceiling is? My shop is tall enough for lift...( I went with 4 post lift)(Can drive another vehicle underneath a raised vehicle)...I have a small loft...That's where compressor & hot water heater are located along with some storage cabinets for paint & misc ...bathroom & small office (computer) are under the loft. LP Gas furnace hangs from the ceiling. I also have a wood furnace in one corner that gets used practically every day fall thru springtime here in NE Iowa.( Insurance Company was fine with this.) I put in one 14'x20' overhead door & one 36" walk in door. My main shop is 40'x40'x16'...My cold storage is same size with 14'x20' overhead door between the two halves.The cold side is where my cars are kept. It is just spray foamed insulation..no liner installed. Good Luck... Have Fun...
 
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I poured area 8-12" thick where I thought lift might set depending on with lift I went with either 2 post or 4 post.I put 25 anchor bolts around perimeter and connected all thread through 3 blocks high and 2x8" treated wood plate. I poured blocks with concrete so everything is anchored to slab. I put 2" slope to front so I can was floor without getting wood wet. I had trusses built with 2' rise in the center to make room for 2 post lift I went with. Shop is 36'X40"
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I dug out and poured 4’ deep footers under the lift legs. I made sure the heating tubes made a wide swing around that area so there was no chance of hitting one when drilling anchors.

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OK now to answer the question 'Where to place the lift ?'
So my garage is 24' wide , I placed my lift 5' from the wall and it's 12' wide and that leaves 7' on the other side to the wall .
Now where to place it front to rear ? I placed mine 14' in from the door and that put it 14' from the stairs at the front .
If I was going to move it I would put it at 13' from the door giving me 15' in front .

In the O.P.'s case I think 13' or 14' from the door and 5' from the bathroom side wall in line with the bathroom . This would give room for tools and a walk way although it may be a bit tight at the rear of what's on the lift to get by the bathroom .
I suppose you could move the man door to the bathroom side and the garage door over to the left . Or flip the bathroom to the left and leave the doors as planed .
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75slant6 said:
Atlas requires a minimum of 4” of 3000 psi for either the 8000 or 9000 lift. I’m going to be doing 5” throughout the entire shop
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We have a 32x48 shop. The absolute best thing we ever did for our shop was put a ceiling in it with R19. Never gets below freezing and it warms up to 50 real quick on the coldest days. OSB walls with R13 behind them and it’s very comfortable to work in. Can’t help with your lay out though.
 
GGs66GT said:
OK now to answer the question 'Where to place the lift ?'
So my garage is 24' wide , I placed my lift 5' from the wall and it's 12' wide and that leaves 7' on the other side to the wall .
Now where to place it front to rear ? I placed mine 14' in from the door and that put it 14' from the stairs at the front .
If I was going to move it I would put it at 13' from the door giving me 15' in front .

In the O.P.'s case I think 13' or 14' from the door and 5' from the bathroom side wall in line with the bathroom . This would give room for tools and a walk way although it may be a bit tight at the rear of what's on the lift to get by the bathroom .
I suppose you could move the man door to the bathroom side and the garage door over to the left . Or flip the bathroom to the left and leave the doors as planed .
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I actually changed the layout of it now. Instead of putting the restroom in the front right corner, I’m adding it onto the back left corner of the shop. As can be seen in my scribbles, I’ll make the restroom big enough to have a toilet, sink, shower and also house the water heater and electrical panel. I moved to compressor from where I had the “compressor room” to outside, behind the shop. I’ll add a door from the restroom, out the back to the compressor area as well. I’ll also do a utility since on the shop side of the bathroom wall.

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That’s a good layout . Where do you think is a good place for your lift ?
Here's a pic of my Bathroom deep sink . It would give you some storage and save the space in the shop . Excuse the mess .
BTW I installed a motion switch for the lights . You can see it in the reflection .

I’d think twice about having the compressor outside . It would pick up a lot of moisture doing its thing and that would also shorten its life . Perhaps in the storage building would be a better place for it .
 
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GGs66GT said:
View attachment 1715900133 That’s a good layout . Where do you think is a good place for your lift ?
Here's a pic of my Bathroom deep sink . It would give you some storage and save the space in the shop . Excuse the mess .
BTW I installed a motion switch for the lights . You can see it in the reflection .

I’d think twice about having the compressor outside . It would pick up a lot of moisture doing its thing and that would also shorten its life . Perhaps in the storage building would be a better place for it .
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I have had a compressor in an outdoor building for 10 years. No bad effects that I am aware of.
In the summer the humidity in an out building will be the same as it is in the shop, unless the shop is air conditioned.
In the winter, in extreme cold, zero and below one may need to pay attention to how the compressor starts,,, but I could hang a 60 w bulb next to the compressor cylinders and warm them.
So please explain, how a compressor will pick up more moisture in an out building.
 
From his drawing it appears that the compressor is outside not in a building .
 
Hmm… I’ll have to research the pros and cons. Truth be told, I’ll probably have the compressor in the main shop area to start with, since I don’t have a big compressor. Once I get a 60-80 gallon compressor I’ll revisit the issue.
 
Hemirunner said:
You can’t afford to skip this step. The PEX is cheap and you can add the remaining components later. I insulated around my foundation and under the floor. I heat a 1250 square foot building with a small on demand water heater. I doubt I have much over $1500 in the entire heating system including the PEX.
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I agree. Also check your insurance rates with a radiant heat floor versus a wood stove. Be honest with your insurance agent. If you're not honest, they can deny anyclaim you might have. JMO.
 
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