abdywgn
dismantler
is this one of the drains by the outlet?
Shop must haves
- Thread starter DentalDart
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is this one of the drains by the outlet?
First thing I would do is get rid of any trees that could land on the shop.
melcardona
Well-Known Member
the lid needs to be white metal..put in rep for lights as you put up your steel lid..nothing is better ...do the uper part of walls in metal as well no osb just over studs...at 8 ft put your osb to 1'' before floor....i got my 9k lb 4 poster for 1200 deliverd to a wh 20 mi away..that incl all duty cost...
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Yes, it is, but it rarely has any water in it. 99% of the time I've only had trace amounts blow out towards the bottom of the fire extinguisher. Its never dripped or sprayed on the outlet, as this is the 150psi feed from the compressor before the regulator. Even partially opening the ball valve turns any water in it into a fog/mist for a second or two.
The drain that collects the vast majority of water is next to the compressor, as the drain-back from the upward sloping pipes towards that down pipe accounts for 2/3 of the galvanized pipe circuit. The silver tank behind the black tank was salvaged from my original compressor when it threw a rod. I also added cable actuated drains to the bottom of them.
I guess I should have screwed a 8 inch length of pipe in the down pipe by the outlet for visual effect.
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autoxcuda
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Maybe a 50-60’ reel of electrical cord heavy guage near one of the doors.
Also an outdoor outlet and maybe an air coupler for jobs you don’t want inside the shop.
Also an outdoor outlet and maybe an air coupler for jobs you don’t want inside the shop.
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Agreed on the electrical outlets. I have external outlets on all three sides where there is no door, and I’ve found this to be quite useful. Never considered running the air lines outside, though.
A few thoughs, having been in my shop for 25 years now. I agree with all the suggestions above. And I've pretty much done them all, albeit in hindsight. Be smart and play along from the start. In no particular order:
I would go the extra expense to do plywood on the walls instead of OSB. I have both, and plywood is vastly superior and well worth the extra cost. Dont scrimp here, you will thank me later.
This may be a me thing, but I need shop tunes. My shop system is excellent and I about never work in silence. Run overhead speaker wires early on. If TV is your thing, set that up also. Mine uses the stereo for sound. I watch it very little but I do have one.
I dont see a mini-split mentoned yet. Get a big enough one, you will never be sorry. It is 45 outside right now and I'm in a t-shirt inside. Same deal applies in the summer. Set it to cool and if it's 95 outside, it's 70 inside. In this vein, seal up the shop. I use a mickey-mouse deal on the sliding doors but it works. Minimizing cold/hot air from the outside is a big deal.
All that said, I'm jealous of your setup. I'm on a couple of acres but more land is better. As many have said, buy once cry once.
I would go the extra expense to do plywood on the walls instead of OSB. I have both, and plywood is vastly superior and well worth the extra cost. Dont scrimp here, you will thank me later.
This may be a me thing, but I need shop tunes. My shop system is excellent and I about never work in silence. Run overhead speaker wires early on. If TV is your thing, set that up also. Mine uses the stereo for sound. I watch it very little but I do have one.
I dont see a mini-split mentoned yet. Get a big enough one, you will never be sorry. It is 45 outside right now and I'm in a t-shirt inside. Same deal applies in the summer. Set it to cool and if it's 95 outside, it's 70 inside. In this vein, seal up the shop. I use a mickey-mouse deal on the sliding doors but it works. Minimizing cold/hot air from the outside is a big deal.
All that said, I'm jealous of your setup. I'm on a couple of acres but more land is better. As many have said, buy once cry once.
Elmo65
Well-Known Member
It might sound stupid, but I’d put a dishwasher too. Have you ever been guilty of using the one in your house? you can buy a used one cheap and they’re really easy to put in.
I split all of my receptacles and only put 2 of them on each circuit.
abdywgn
dismantler
I've noticed plastic sheeting hanging from the ceiling, foam insulation in walls/ceilings. What are your thoughts on fires? These would seem to be items that would catch and spread quickly, especially welding/cutting sparks. Plywood would be good on the walls with a fire retardant paint. Or thin sheet metal wall material. Or both? Just a thought.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Absolutely on the outdoor outlets!
Be careful about outdoor air couplers- they are handy but can be an issue in our climate. An iced-up coupler in the wintertime can cause you a lot of grief.
Maybe if you put them in a weatherproof enclosure or put an inline ball valve indoors to shut them off once old man winter settles in for six months.
abdywgn
dismantler
what about the gas station "outlets" that were on the garage doors? the ones they had before lines were outside? you'd have to go in and ask for the air line and they would run it out the opening? at home, you'd need to be able to "lock" it so the critters don't think of it as their own little door.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
While we're talking about air supply and compressors, I thought I'd mention this.
While mounting your compressor remotely or putting it in an enclosure is generally a good idea, it can have some drawbacks; one is accessing it to drain condensation from the tank. This should be done regularly, not just to keep moisture out of the lines but to prolong the life of the tank itself.
How I handle this is to remove the drain petcock from the tank and install a 110v N.O. valve in it's place, and wire/plug it into the same dedicated circuit as the compressor power (or into one leg of the 220 circuit if that's the case). Then run a length of hose from the valve to a floor drain, or outside.
This way, every time you shut the compressor down for the day, the valve opens and the tank drains. When you turn the compressor back on the next day the valve energizes and closes, ready for use.
Works for me.
While mounting your compressor remotely or putting it in an enclosure is generally a good idea, it can have some drawbacks; one is accessing it to drain condensation from the tank. This should be done regularly, not just to keep moisture out of the lines but to prolong the life of the tank itself.
How I handle this is to remove the drain petcock from the tank and install a 110v N.O. valve in it's place, and wire/plug it into the same dedicated circuit as the compressor power (or into one leg of the 220 circuit if that's the case). Then run a length of hose from the valve to a floor drain, or outside.
This way, every time you shut the compressor down for the day, the valve opens and the tank drains. When you turn the compressor back on the next day the valve energizes and closes, ready for use.
Works for me.
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Forgot about those, great idea!what about the gas station "outlets" that were on the garage doors? the ones they had before lines were outside? you'd have to go in and ask for the air line and they would run it out the opening? at home, you'd need to be able to "lock" it so the critters don't think of it as their own little door.
I was wondering about that…..
I still have to finish insulating the ceiling, and installing the furnace and air, but I’m getting to be too much of a wuss to do it in the cold, so when it warms up in the spring I’ll jump right on those two. Guess what I’m trying to say is I have all winter to think about how to do this (run compressed air outside).
Thanks!
autoxcuda
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Was wondering about outside air with freezing. A non issue here. I’d think in either climate, a cover enclosure to keep corrosion down.
I brought it up so you could paint with a gun or blow something out that you didn’t want the mess inside the shop.
I don’t do any welding/cutting in here yet. The foam is when I started insulating it last year, finished the walls but never hung board over them. The ceiling I tried putting plastic up until I could find someone to redo the trusses, but it was hard and stayed cold. I said f it I’ll hire it out to do the rest. My other shop has a heat pump so I stay in there most when I can.
The big shop is getting wall coverings and the roof will be retrussed with I’m thinking spray foam but blow in wouldn’t be the worst.
That’s a great idea! I won’t be using my compressor on a daily basis, nor do I foresee leaving it “online” all the time, and while I am planning on running a drier, this will help ensure that the condensate will be drained automatically.
Thank you!
lol I just walk outside and pee… my wife can barely find my pecker so I know my neighbor a quarter mile away through the trees can’t see it.
I would saw out the concrete where lift legs will be and put plenty of concrete. I did that when I put a two post at my equipment shop, I built shop here at house I dug two runs 12" deep with rebar before pouring pad. I am two Eaton compressors, one in my equipment shop and one on my service truck. There are great compressors. I also have a T-30 Ingersoll in my 36'x40' shop ., Joe
Plywood costs 2x as much lol. I’ve looked at tin and vinyl sheeting even used but dang those all run like 40 bucks a pop, a touch more expensive than plywood. But it’s probably easier to just do it at the beginning.
I’m a music person, I’ll probably put a couple Alexa’s in the shop and just play music on those, cheap and easy to connect them together.
I’m not sure if I’ll do a mini split or another heat pump, I bought my heat pump for 300 on Facebook and paid 500 to install it. Keeps the small shop perfect degrees all year long. That shop has metal walls and it does amazing for heat/cold retention
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
@abdywgn 's post above got me to thinking (and that can be a dangerous thing...), and along the lines of the old gas station "doors", why not put a small-sized "doggy door" in the wall near one of the air couplers?
Keep it a few feet off the floor to discourage critters; and they generally are pretty weatherproof and lockable.
That would be really handy for passing an air hose or electrical cord outside when you don't want to crack any door open in 0* weather...
I used 2” foam insulation panels as the “first coarse” on both my walls and the ceiling, followed up with bat insulation. The foam boards are re-purposed roof insulation purchased from roofing contractors (from school buildings, offices, etc), and it’s worked out great (and for only 40 cents on the dollar roughly compared to new)! In the gaps I used spray foam, and I gotta say- that building is TIGHT! Unfortunately I ran out of warm days to finish-up filling gaps with foam, so here I am….waiting.
Picture of some of the foam boards I bought from a local roofer:
It’s currently a 10in thick slab with rebar, was built 35 years ago but it’s thick. This is the 10ft walkway I wanted to close in but the drop in elevation is what makes connecting the 2 shops super expensive. The reason I show it is to show the concrete below the shop outer wall. This is also the opposite side of where I was measuring the thickness of the slab, so I’d assume it’s probably thicker on this side.
Yeah I think I decided on the Eaton compressor.
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