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Dfr360cuda

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Forgot about this tool.
Oldest one in the book.
The cheater bar. I have a couple lengths. 3/4 and 1 inch conduit. Fits over a breaker bar or a spud wrench.

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Had to remove a sink the other day, and the shut off valves were the one for handicapped bathrooms, so I needed a special key to shut it off

Picked one up from the plumber, but it turned out to be the wrong size, so I had to get creative

(Not that creative, just a spin on the helicoil setup)

So, we got a 1/4 inch bit holder then a torx bit, and a 1/4 wrench on that
Worked like a charm

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Cliff Ramsdell

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Got my old car back and have been working on it. Gas was who knows how old and a full tank.

Took an old Holley blue pump my son pulled off his Duster and fabbed up some lines and BAM, empty tank.

Video of it working..

Cliff Ramsdell
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Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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Apologies if this has already been posted, but how about the poor man’s digital readout for the mill? This is a little trick I picked up for locating your part after moving the table. Just be sure to zero the gauge on your wheel before moving.
 

gzig5

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Add a vernier section to that tape on the front edge of the table and you'll have a full time analog read out. That is how my 1940 Index mill table was outfitted.

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gzig5

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The thumbwheel on the brass part zeros the vernier. You still have to remember where you start from. In that position, you would zero on 0 or 1". In the middle somewhere, pic a whole number or build in your total move so you end on a whole number. I want to say the top rod on mine goes full length but I may be mi-remembering and it isn't on there at the moment. I nabbed that pic from the net
 

67Dart273

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The thumbwheel on the brass part zeros the vernier. You still have to remember where you start from. In that position, you would zero on 0 or 1". In the middle somewhere, pic a whole number or build in your total move so you end on a whole number. I want to say the top rod on mine goes full length but I may be mi-remembering and it isn't on there at the moment. I nabbed that pic from the net

What in heck do you call those if you were to go lookin?
 

12many

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Guys that ride (or used to ride) motorcycles might appreciate this set of tools here. These are improvised “cartridge emulator” adjusting tools for the front forks (stanchions) on older motorcycles that had non-adjustable forks. You drill out the damper rods to bypass the damping they are stuck with-and then install the emulators (adjustable valves) on top of the rods and reassemble the forks. Typically you have to pull apart the forks to adjust the emulators for softer/firmer damping. With these tools I made the forks now only need to be drained of oil, the forks cap on top is removed, and the long Allen tipped tool drops down through the spring in the fork and engages the emulators Allen bolt, and the other two tools insert from the bottom of the fork: the brass tube with notches engages the gold vanes of the emulator to prevent it from turning while adjusting the bolt, and the tool with the prongs engages the modified stop nut (nut is notched to accept the prongs on the tool) Takes both hands but one is able to loosen the nut, tighten or loosen the bolt to soften/firm up the damping. All without removing the front end of the bike and disassembling the forks. Works a charm as they say

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Righty Tighty

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The thumbwheel on the brass part zeros the vernier. You still have to remember where you start from. In that position, you would zero on 0 or 1". In the middle somewhere, pic a whole number or build in your total move so you end on a whole number. I want to say the top rod on mine goes full length but I may be mi-remembering and it isn't on there at the moment. I nabbed that pic from the net

That’s a great system. I still like to be able to zero my part without having to find its location on a scale, because many (or most) times, I find that my part isn’t directly on an increment that I could easily locate. It’s usually in between or a few thou off.
 

12many

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Here’s a tool I made for loosening/tightening the Notched axle/hub nut/ring thing-a-ma-bob on the front Dana 44 of a 90 W-150. Obviously an old socket pressed into some type of odd shaped pipe with some notches ground out...I wonder what that pipe could be:rolleyes: And then we have a front pump bushing driver for a 727 trans fab’d from some pipe, massaged to the correct diameters, with a thick washer welded on to accept thedrive handle from a seal/bearing driver set. I love making tools!:eek:

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gzig5

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What in heck do you call those if you were to go lookin?
Vernier slide? It really isn't any different than a set of Vernier calipers and you could probably convert a caliper to do the same. Not hard to make, it just depends on how accurate you require them to be. Digital DROs are so cheap now though, I don't know if it is worth the effort if you start from scratch.
 

4spdragtop

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Nothing special here, its simply to sift junk out of used sandblast media.
Sally Anne sander strapped to a "bucket" with holes drilled in it. Saves aggravation of junk plugging the gun.

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kursplat

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904 trans, the dogs or pins, or whatever they're called in the pump that the torque convertor notches slide over, got bounced around in shipping, and moved out of alignment enough i couldn't get the TQ in. decided to sacrifice the old convertor and cut the hub off it, welded on some handles and made an alignment tool.

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gzig5

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Big_John

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I bet something like that would help my HF blast cabinet keep the sand around the pickup rather than stacked up along the walls.
What you want to do is add a metering valve to the bottom of the hopper and get rid of the pickup tube. Turned mine into a completely different machine that works so much better. I just have to keep a couple cups of media in it too. You add a cup of fresh media every once in a while to replace the old that got broken down and sucked up by the vacuum.

Listen to this guy, and then search for other videos on the subject.

 

4spdragtop

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Great video, my cabinet I made from a chest freezer. Biggest expense was hemi orange spray paint and dust collector.
What you want to do is add a metering valve to the bottom of the hopper and get rid of the pickup tube. Turned mine into a completely different machine that works so much better. I just have to keep a couple cups of media in it too. You add a cup of fresh media every once in a while to replace the old that got broken down and sucked up by the vacuum.

Listen to this guy, and then search for other videos on the subject.



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