Slant six ground locations

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hotrod swinger

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I just picked up a new project. The engine is freshly rebuilt and installed, needs a bit of wiring done.

My question: where are the locations for ground straps? Do i connect the battery ground to the water pump?

Is there a bolt hole at the back of the engine to ground to the firewall?
 
Bolt on the rear of the head or you can use a tranny to block bolt then to a clean ground to the firewall.
Battery ground to block near the power steering pump. I usually add battery to the radiator support too.
Unless you are doing 100% factory then disregard the above.
Love that green paint.Nice job under the hood!
 

Ground for the battery goes to a hole in the block next to the power steering pump bracket. There are 2 open holes on the cylinder head for lifting the engine. The rear one is used to ground to the firewall. I usually use the screw between the heater inlets for the other end.

Nice car, thanks for keeping it a \6.
 
You surely are not worried about "restore correct" with that paint scheme, are ya? I would not worry. Ground the battery to a convenient place on the engine block, and then from the rear add a "Ford starter cable" (eyelet to eyelet) from the head or block to the firewall. The firewall master cyl. mounting studs are a good bet.
 
You surely are not worried about "restore correct" with that paint scheme, are ya?

lol no just looking for a tips because there were no ground straps attached.

I ended up grounding from battery negative to a water pump bolt, battery negative to the radiator, and a bell housing bolt to the heater bracket.
 
Grounding "to the body" with just about any of the "big three" (and the little 4th) back in the day was marginal. Those cars usually had little grounded to the body.......headlights, tail/ stop, heater, etc. It's "now" that people tend to add "other stuff" ---big stereos, etc, that a minimal body ground becomes a problem

This was also true, "back then" of cars used for fleet/ delivery/ taxi/ police with Great Big Heavy 2-way radios, which at that time were at the end of the vacuum tube era and drew a fair amount of current.
 
Next will be the cracked back headlight relays. I’m not gonna do a jumper on this one just yet, I like having a functional ammeter.
 
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