slick decision

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Demonx2 said:
Now a 38" tire on a Duster...hmmmm....

I posted just so people would know that with a 28" and 1" clearance, you could go to a 29" but would be at 1/2" clearance. A bit tight for my liking hence why I stayed with a 28". And since it hooks hard, figured I didn't need any more contact patch.

p.s. Can't wait to hear whatcha run with that car!!
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:lol: I fat fingered it. 28’s actually appear to be the perfect size for our cars and it looks fantastic on yours. When I first penciled my build on a cocktail napkin, i planned to run a 29.5 and 4.30 gears. When I got my parts for the 3rd member, I was shocked to see that I had received 4.11’s. Rather than taking them back, I decided to ask a few here and decided to give the gear a try. I then decided to run a 29” tall tire instead. I might be way off on my combo but we will all know soon enough. lol
 
Update for everyone.

I have a set of Hoosier CO7 slicks. I have not ran them yet. Actually only had time to hit the track once this year. I ran the DR for that day. They actually hooked great! They seem to like a really good burnout and 15psi. It landed me my best 60' to date, a 1.68. So that is progress. Consistently laying 1.68-1.73 between my 5 passes until rain shortened our day. Those DR are going down the road tomorrow and the slicks will be mounted for the next weekend.

Anyone have any tips for this style slick? PSI? Burnout? Is there a break in procedure?

For those that may not care for the choice. I won them on one of those waffle pages on the book of faces. $120 is all I have into them. Pretty cheap set of rubber.
 
MoparMcK said:
Update for everyone.

I have a set of Hoosier CO7 slicks. I have not ran them yet. Actually only had time to hit the track once this year. I ran the DR for that day. They actually hooked great! They seem to like a really good burnout and 15psi. It landed me my best 60' to date, a 1.68. So that is progress. Consistently laying 1.68-1.73 between my 5 passes until rain shortened our day. Those DR are going down the road tomorrow and the slicks will be mounted for the next weekend.

Anyone have any tips for this style slick? PSI? Burnout? Is there a break in procedure?

For those that may not care for the choice. I won them on one of those waffle pages on the book of faces. $120 is all I have into them. Pretty cheap set of rubber.
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Are they stiff sidewall?
 
-Boosted- said:
Please describe what you did to fit a 30" tall tire in the wheel wells of your Demons. I'm trying to shoehorn a 29.5 on my Duster without cutting up the openings too much.

Thanks in advance.... Bill
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I reroll the front of Fender on bottom of
lip back to flush with inter fenderwell.
I slice the lip about 3/4 of an inch every
couple of inches and carefully roll it back.
Take your time.
I have to roll both the lip much further than
you will since my Rear end is moved forward (not back)
3/4 of an inch. NHRA gives you that much tolerance
in your wheelbase.
Everything else on the car is moved around a bit as well
but I better not go into any more details.
 
MoparMcK said:
Thanks John. I know your cars now. My Uncle Ron knows them and you fairly good I believe. As you let him run one of yours one year in Vegas and he won!

My car is mini tubbed and the springs are relocated. I currently have a 10" wide wheel with 5" BS under it. I don't want to go larger than a 28" tire. I have been told I will need to trim the front side of the wheel opening to fit a larger tire.

I have always thought it is not good to mix radial and bias tires. Sounds like that has changed.

Thank you for your input.
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My old car(3220 currently Duster) has been 9.50’s at 140 on CE 3 way shocks all around, 002/003 super stock springs and Hoosier 28 by 11.5(10 inch measured) QTP tires. It’s not even minitubbed. Was slightly slower when I raced it. These are bias DOT tires he and I both run/ran with tubes to stiffen the sidewall
Ultra consistent car.
I suspect the change to a more forgiving bias tire and some clutch adjustment will go a long way towards making the car more consistent.
Frankly, if you want to remove being a semi rocket scientist…lol and make it much easier on yourself…..put an automatic in it.
 
B3422w5 said:
My old car(3220 currently Duster) has been 9.50’s at 140 on CE 3 way shocks all around, 002/003 super stock springs and Hoosier 28 by 11.5(10 inch measured) QTP tires. It’s not even minitubbed. Was slightly slower when I raced it. These are bias DOT tires he and I both run/ran with tubes to stiffen the sidewall
Ultra consistent car.
I suspect the change to a more forgiving bias tire and some clutch adjustment will go a long way towards making the car more consistent.
Frankly, if you want to remove being a semi rocket scientist…lol and make it much easier on yourself…..put an automatic in it.
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I mean this in a nice response. NO WAY!! LOL. I have had so many people tell me to put an auto in it. I could careless if I win. This thing is so much fun on and off the track.
 
Both of my cars have been hacked in the wheel wells by a hatchet man. I’ve watched guys stretch their wheel wells before and it wasn’t as hard as these guys thought it was.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Both of my cars have been hacked in the wheel wells by a hatchet man. I’ve watched guys stretch their wheel wells before and it wasn’t as hard as these guys thought it was.
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I have both a fender, rolling tool and cut off wheel. I’m choosing to use the wheel. :lol:
 
MoparMcK said:
I mean this in a nice response. NO WAY!! LOL. I have had so many people tell me to put an auto in it. I could careless if I win. This thing is so much fun on and off the track.
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You're gonna have a new best friend on fabo, you qualified his names rat bastid
 
pittsburghracer said:
Both of my cars have been hacked in the wheel wells by a hatchet man. I’ve watched guys stretch their wheel wells before and it wasn’t as hard as these guys thought it was.
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Yep, if I didn't absolutely love the look of the 68 dart s/s I would stretch mine but I love that s/s wheel well with tall tires showing and I know It looks good on a 70 because dick Landy drove a 70 with s/s wheel wells
 
MoparMcK said:
Update for everyone.

I have a set of Hoosier CO7 slicks. I have not ran them yet. Actually only had time to hit the track once this year. I ran the DR for that day. They actually hooked great! They seem to like a really good burnout and 15psi. It landed me my best 60' to date, a 1.68. So that is progress. Consistently laying 1.68-1.73 between my 5 passes until rain shortened our day. Those DR are going down the road tomorrow and the slicks will be mounted for the next weekend.

Anyone have any tips for this style slick? PSI? Burnout? Is there a break in procedure?
Click to expand...
These are an excellent tire and we
ran them for many years.
They require very little burn out
once broken in for a few passes.
Just a count to two or three to clean any
crap off them.
First few runs do a bit longer burn out to break them

in (Maybe a four or five count).
Start with 18 PST = They do not like low pressure!
You will probably end up with 21 or 22 PSI with your
combo.
We routinely ran 1.33 to 1.36 depending on the track
and density altitude on these with our 3300 + 340 Stockers
on the C07 tires.
The Goodyear Radials are a hundred or two faster than
the Hoosier but are not as forgiving or as fast recovering
if they do spin.
We are sponsored now by Goodyear and do tire testing/development
for them.
We used to have a Hoosier deal before we got a better deal from
Goodyear. Both are a very good choice especially if the last hundred
is not as critical to you. (We won class a few years ago by .0001 true
margin in Denver so it is a different situation for us than most racers).
The stick will need a well set up suspension to tolerate the radials.
But it can be done.
 
MoparMcK May I ask which clutch are you running and how much rpm are you dropping on the hit. If it is more than a 1000 to 1500 rpm you will need to rethink your clutch set up. If you have a 500hp engine you need a clutch that will holds 500hp, if you have a 1000hp then you need one to hold a 1000hp, but never a 1000hp clutch on a 500hp engine or a 500hp clutch on a 1000hp. A controlled slip in the clutch will always have better 60 ft. and quicker ET. than one that hits like a light switch. Drag radials need to dead hook to work, that is a significant amount of clutch tuning for both the inasal hit and each gear change.
 
famous bob said:
almost hit ther red x , dont kno anybody around here doing that ...
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You don't know anyone that does it to fit a bigger tire??, **** everyone I know that runs bigger than 28s either spaces the diff back or trims the front of the wheel well lip.
 
On the other side of the stick shift spectrum, when clutch hit is controlled by a 'tamer stiff walls are not needed. Also saves you the added cost of running tubes. The ability to run higher tire pressure in-turn reduces the need for screws, less rolling resistance is an added bonus. Not many downsides to a proper hitting clutch.

Not sure if guys think controlling the clutch hit is snake oil or what, but the cars that won the stick shift class at the most recent World Cup Finals as well as the Texas2K23 were both using my clutch hit controllers. Both cars used my hit controllers on diaphragm clutches to snatch the $10k winner's checks from the adjustable centrifugal assist "slipper" clutch guys.

Grant
 
19DART66 said:
MoparMcK May I ask which clutch are you running and how much rpm are you dropping on the hit. If it is more than a 1000 to 1500 rpm you will need to rethink your clutch set up. If you have a 500hp engine you need a clutch that will holds 500hp, if you have a 1000hp then you need one to hold a 1000hp, but never a 1000hp clutch on a 500hp engine or a 500hp clutch on a 1000hp. A controlled slip in the clutch will always have better 60 ft. and quicker ET. than one that hits like a light switch. Drag radials need to dead hook to work, that is a significant amount of clutch tuning for both the inasal hit and each gear change.
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I would have to dig and find the part number. It is a Centerforce diaphragm clutch. I told them my driveline specs. They recommended what disc to use for the Hp range. My engine Dynoed 560/620 at the flywheel. They say this disc will hold to 700. It seems to be doing good. The drag radials did dead hook with the good burnout and 15 psi. Usually launch around 3k rpm.
 
Hoosier daddy? :lol:
360141629_6348774051859101_5973640918040098273_n.jpeg


IMG_1188.jpeg
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Wow, that trx is almost pulling a wheelie!!!
Bill you have some nice stuff, what did you do invent water ?
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lol, yeah it will barely pull the left front when on kill. Not bad for a 6700# tow pig.
 
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MOPARMAGA said:
You don't know anyone that does it to fit a bigger tire??, **** everyone I know that runs bigger than 28s either spaces the diff back or trims the front of the wheel well lip.
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I have 295 60 d15`s on my 68 fastback ,and didnt move the rear end at all....
inside the inner fender worked (from previous hemi days experiance) , front of fenderwell reworked to the inner fender panel "like gtx john said" , on a barracuda the shapes are identicle even by a template , inner fender lip rolled , cant tell it unless you get down and look , " wheels have to be perfect !" ...
 
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famous bob said:
I have 295 60 d15`s on my 68 fastback ,and didnt move the rear end at all....
inside the inner fender worked (from previous hemi days experiance) , front of fenderwell reworked to the inner fender panel "like gtx john said" , on a barracuda the shapes are identicle even by a template , inner fender lip rolled , cant tell it unless you get down and look , " wheels have to be perfect !" ...
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How tall is a 295 60 15 it's less or close to 28 inch tall.
I don't think you're on the same topic as me.
I and others are talking about tire circumference, not width of the tire or wheel.
 
-Boosted- said:
Yeah, that’s easy. Stuffing a 29 or 30” tall tire in there is different.

295/55R15’s which are 28” tall and 11” wide on a 15x10 wheel easily fit in the wheel well of my duster.

View attachment 1716114632
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What differential do you have in the duster? Is it a stock length diff or narrowed? How about the 15x10 wheel backspace ? Sorry for so many questions just love the look of your duster! I want that for my dart sport. I have an 8.25.
 
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