So looks like I have to replace my heater core

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scampy72

scampy72

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The title says it all. Anybody got a link to instructions on how to do this? The car is a 72 scamp. Dont have the space to take out the dash so I need a way to do it without doing that. Whole repair will be done on the street cause I lost my garage so please keep that in mind. Thanks marc
 
A/C or heater only.


Heater only = possible, but pain in the @ss.....

A/C car = You're f*cked....
 
Also, be careful of the new heater core. Some of them do not have as tight of bends as the originals, and if you try to force them into the duct, it will crack the housing.... :banghead:
 
krazy elaborate on A/C box removal for heater core replacement
 
If it is a non A/C car, you never touch the dash, the heater box falls right out under. Very , very easy to do.
 
BTW I had to replace my heater core cause my new motor revs a lot higher and puts extra pressure on the heater lines and core. When I replaced the core I also put a restrictor on the inlet fitting.
 
krazykuda said:
A/C or heater only.


Heater only = possible, but pain in the @ss.....

A/C car = You're f*cked....
Click to expand...

Yea, what he said.
I've done 73 and 74 A/C cars without removing the boxes a couple of times.
BUT both boxes had been out of the cars before.
That makes a difference and I knew what to do. Working through the glove box, etc.
You are going to do it in the street in the cold in New York?
I feel for you. Hope your car is a non A/C.
 
krazykuda said:
A/C or heater only.


Heater only = possible, but pain in the @ss.....

A/C car = You're f*cked....
Click to expand...

Yea, what he said.
I've done 73 and 74 A/C cars without removing the boxes a couple of times.
BUT both boxes had been out of the cars before.
That makes a difference and I knew what to do. Working through the glove box, etc.
You are going to do it in the street in the cold in New York?
I feel for you. Hope your car is a non A/C.
And don't stress the lines. The replacement ones don't always fit exactly.
I always leak test them before install too. 15 psi air in a water tank.
 
I just removed my heater box on my 70 dart yesterday. I left the A/C part of the box in the dash. You don't have to remove the whole thing. And you also don't need to remove the dash. BUT I did tear my glovebox out(I have a new one). It was my first-time doing so. And it took me about an hour taking my time in my apartment parking lot. Just make sure and blow all of the water out of the heater core so it doesn't pour all over the interior. Take lots of pictures so you can replace the vacuum lines and control cables back on properly. If you do have an A/C car and need some help. Send me a PM.
 
Also try to replace any of the old foam seals that you can get to.

The flat one on the fresh air door. The ones around the doors, heater, etc. that will help keep the air going where it's supposed to be.

When you put it back in, make sure to get the hook set for the fresh air area, then put the studs through the firewall and secure all of them after they have all been started. Also make sure that you get the drain tube for the evaporator through the hole if that part was removed, otherwise the condensation from the A/C will get in the interior/carpet....
 
You never have to actually remove the dash to do any A Body heater core. Drop the three bolts on the column, and pull that down. Pull the two bolts that secure the bottom of the dash frame behind the kick panels. Then, just pull the bottom of the frame outwards and you've got TONS of room to do whatever needs to be done.
Flashback....I spent my whole youth working on these things outside in NYC winters. Made me the man I am today!
 
Ok no ac In the car. Sorry should have said that at first. Thanks for all the general info but it would help a ton if soneone is willing to give ne a blow by blow. Pun intended lol.
 
I don't drop the box, or move the dash,..

I remove the glove box,, and unsnap the clips that holds the box halves together, take off the cover,, remove/replace the heater core.. put the cover back on and the hardeast part is putting ALL the snaps back on,, but quite do-able.. I seldom ever took a box out except for restorations..

Saves messing with the wires, cables, seized j-hook,, and torn foams..

Takes me about 40 mins to replace a core,, non A/C..

hope it helps
 
Not sure why it became accepted to remove the dash on AC cars, at least after about '72.

The factory service manual outlines the procedure to remove the heater core on AC-equipped cars and nowhere does it say take the dash and the HVAC box out. You remove the center vent, the part of the case directly behind it and the heater core is in there. Did it on my '75.

I suggest anyone doing jobs like this invest in an FSM.
 
TylerW said:
Not sure why it became accepted to remove the dash on AC cars, at least after about '72.

The factory service manual outlines the procedure to remove the heater core on AC-equipped cars and nowhere does it say take the dash and the HVAC box out. You remove the center vent, the part of the case directly behind it and the heater core is in there. Did it on my '75.

I suggest anyone doing jobs like this invest in an FSM.
Click to expand...


73-76 is done that way. 72 back is a completely different animal.
 
scampy72 said:
Ok no ac In the car. Sorry should have said that at first. Thanks for all the general info but it would help a ton if soneone is willing to give ne a blow by blow. Pun intended lol.
Click to expand...

No AC is easy.

Disconnect the two heater hoses at the firewall under the hood.

Remove the bracket at the firewall that the heater hose lines go through.

Remove glove box. Should just be a few screws and the two bolts that hold the metal latch bracket.

Use a long flat head screwdriver to pry the clips off the sides of the heater box. There's some easy to reach ones along the bottom. A few on the top and a hidden one on the right side that you'll just have to feel for since there's not much room to see in there.

Pull the front cover of the heater box off.

I believe there's a wire connector/ground you have to remove from the top of the heater box. It's easy to get to.

Remove the clamp that holds the heater core lines down to the heater box. Should just be one screw holding it down.

Remove heater core while keeping the lines tipped up so you don't spill coolant.

Install the same way in reverse order.

Only tough part from here on out is getting the clips back on the box. Use some sort of hook tool to pull the clips back into place. I didn't have a tool like that so I just used a pair of pliers and grabbed a nail. Then I used the head of the nail to slip into the clip and pulled it tight. Don't put the clips on backwards. They'll be easier to install backwards but much more difficult to remove the next time you take the heater box apart.
 
Ok, since this is the guys first attempt at this, I would highly recommend he actually remove the box from the car so he can see the location of all the clips. It's literally just unbolting the blower motor and undoing the J hook. Five minutes of extra work to avoid half a day of poking around and wondering why the damn thing won't come apart...and then there's reinstalling the clips. MUCH MUCH easier with the box out.
I'm doing these cars for 37 years, and when I've got to do a heater core, I just drop the box. Done it both ways, and believe me it's faster and easer with the box out.
 
I was taught my method by my mentor..

At the Dealership we get paid flat rate 1.3 hrs, and I do them in 0.8,, that's
an extra .5 each job, and adds up on the pay-check..

My concern would be that if the box has never been out, that the j-hook is seized,, it'll cause him a problem trying to get it out and may consequently break the housing, or mangle the hook making the job much more difficult..

I'm also concerned that the vent hoses usually tear as they're often brittle/rotten.

And often that foam ring at the cold air inlet will shred/tear/disintigrate,, and time will be wasted trying to find/repair that seal, when you don't have any replacement materials readily avail..

Then he has to figure out the cable setting, which could be challenging for a novice..

As my mentor used to say.. "Shoot youself"..

Sorry Tony . . .. jmo

hope it helps
 
inertia said:
I was taught my method by my mentor..

At the Dealership we get paid flat rate 1.3 hrs, and I do them in 0.8,, that's
an extra .5 each job, and adds up on the pay-check..

My concern would be that if the box has never been out, that the j-hook is seized,, it'll cause him a problem trying to get it out and may consequently break the housing, or mangle the hook making the job much more difficult..

I'm also concerned that the vent hoses usually tear as they're often brittle/rotten.

And often that foam ring at the cold air inlet will shred/tear/disintigrate,, and time will be wasted trying to find/repair that seal, when you don't have any replacement materials readily avail..

Then he has to figure out the cable setting, which could be challenging for a novice..

As my mentor used to say.. "Shoot youself"..

Sorry Tony . . .. jmo

hope it helps
Click to expand...

All good points! Looks like the OP has some good info to work from. He'll just have to decide which way is going to suit his purposes and abilities best.
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
All good points! Looks like the OP has some good info to work from. He'll just have to decide which way is going to suit his purposes and abilities best.
Click to expand...

I was thinking his weather conditions,, it's one thing in a warm shop,, but outside near freezing.. brrrr.. lol

cheers
 
thanks alot guys. ive poked around there alot and i think i can see most of the clips. one more quick question i have is this.

the reason i think i need to replace it is the telltale coolant leak from the box however i noticed that it is not constant. its not even most of the time. it only happens every once in a while and it stops when i get going and usually doesnt start again. could this mean that i dont need to replace it after all? i checked the hoses where they go into the firewall and dont see any leaks there. is what im describing a normal occurance when the core goes bad or do i need to check something else.
 
On occasion a heater hose could squirt coolant into the heater box,, but you checked that..

It likely the coolant pools inside the box,, and leaks with the vehicle in motion,,

Wet the tip of your finger with a drop,, taste it, , if it sweet,, its coolant,,

cheers
 
Like INERTIA said , do not take it all apart for an non ac car , its about 40 minutes , read whta he says .Few screws , spring clips , heater hoses, and possible glove box insert .I changed one years ago in a 69 340 Barracuda and it does not take to much time .
 
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