TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
Hey guys, do you know where I can find the circuit board to do the conversion? this is for my willys jeep.
Thanks
Thanks
Solid-State Voltage Regulator Conversions
- Thread starter TheTecher
- Start date
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If you mean the 5 Vreg in your dash cluster for the fuel and temp gages, search "voltage limiter" on ebay (pinkfuzzy or such) or posts here w/ other vendors.
If you mean the alternator Vreg under the hood, depends on what alternator you have. Post photos. I don't know Jeeps, but guessing might have the early Mopar "round-back" alternator. If so, see www.rockauto.com, ~65 Dart.
If you mean the alternator Vreg under the hood, depends on what alternator you have. Post photos. I don't know Jeeps, but guessing might have the early Mopar "round-back" alternator. If so, see www.rockauto.com, ~65 Dart.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yeh. We need a LOT more information here. A LOT
How 'bout a little about the project? What cluster are you using in the Jeep. Is this a 6-12 volt conversion with 6V gauges, or a later cluster or just what?
How 'bout a little about the project? What cluster are you using in the Jeep. Is this a 6-12 volt conversion with 6V gauges, or a later cluster or just what?
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
It's 12v it had a alternator in it but I'm converting it back to a generator there is not a factory correct voltage regulator that I can afford that's 12v. They are about $400.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Uh.................bullshit, but you STILL haven't told us anything.
WHAT EXACTLY is this setup? What body? What year? What engine? swap? What alternator?
You can buy one of these:
Standard VR-128 or NAPA VR1001, and use it on HUNDREDS of alternators, except internal Delcos, and if you cared to modify them slightly, you could adapt it to them, too. You can even use these on late model Mopars by grounding one field terminal.
Hell, you can even adapt the older style '60's/ 70's/ 80's regulator to work on a number of different alternators.
Going to a generator has one word to describe it. You aren't THAT, are ya?? LOL
WHAT EXACTLY is this setup? What body? What year? What engine? swap? What alternator?
You can buy one of these:
Standard VR-128 or NAPA VR1001, and use it on HUNDREDS of alternators, except internal Delcos, and if you cared to modify them slightly, you could adapt it to them, too. You can even use these on late model Mopars by grounding one field terminal.
Hell, you can even adapt the older style '60's/ 70's/ 80's regulator to work on a number of different alternators.
Going to a generator has one word to describe it. You aren't THAT, are ya?? LOL
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
Its a 1944 Willys Mb military jeep. Its the L134 4 banger, Im not using an alternator, Im using an original style generator. My problem here is that the original voltage regulator is 6v and I need to convert it to 12v. There is a company doing it but for $100. I think I could save some if I do it my self.
http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx
http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK, if you insist on using a generator, it is possible, believe it or not, that the 6V will output 12V just fine. If not you'll need to do one of several things. This depends on how "original you want it to "look."
1 possible the 6v generator will work at 12
2 you can have a real rebuild shop rewind the 6v for 12v
3 Find a later similar Jeep 12v generator. I'm not sure when Willys went 12V but I'd guess 55-56
4 Find a 12V generator that will physically fit or that you can build brackets to fit. This can be off most any vehicle.
NOW THE REGULATOR
It is IMPORTANT to realize that you do NOT polarize the regulator but rather the generator. Therefore, there is no such thing as a "positive" or a "negative" ground generator
So far as regulator ground, some DO matter. Some OEM regulators had the contacts material made such that if run at reversed polarity, you would burn up the contacts. Many (probably most) aftermarket replacement regulators had different contact materials, so that they would operate EITHER neg. or positive ground.
SO THE TYPE OF regulator determines what ground polarity you can run. Most 12V vehicles are neg ground, but some heavy trucks (White, I think) were 12V pos. ground. Who knows?? Why did Mopar use left hand lug nuts?
It is EXTREMELY important to discover which "circuit type" your system is to not only get a proper regulator, but to polarize the generator. Autolite made BOTH "A" and "B" field circuits, so you MUST figure this out.
It is EXTREMELY important that the regulator be designed for same as or SMALLER than your generator, because the regulator current relay cuts back on current, protecting the generator. Google "throwing solder."
So the main points of choosing a regulator are:
Must be able to operate on proper (neg) ground polarity, or with either poliarity
Must be proper field circuit
Must be rated at same as generator output current or LESS, IE regulator must "match" the generator. Do NOT use a "heavy duty" regulator on a light duty alternator.
(An aside: "A" and "B" field circuits are sort of analageous to Mopar early (69/ earlier) and late (70/ later) alternator regulator circuits. In the one case, the regulator controls the "ground" on the end of the field, and in the other case, the regulator is in series with power to the field.
MY QUESTION IS as clean as that photo looks, why on earth would you want to convert such a beauty to 12V?
1 possible the 6v generator will work at 12
2 you can have a real rebuild shop rewind the 6v for 12v
3 Find a later similar Jeep 12v generator. I'm not sure when Willys went 12V but I'd guess 55-56
4 Find a 12V generator that will physically fit or that you can build brackets to fit. This can be off most any vehicle.
NOW THE REGULATOR
It is IMPORTANT to realize that you do NOT polarize the regulator but rather the generator. Therefore, there is no such thing as a "positive" or a "negative" ground generator
So far as regulator ground, some DO matter. Some OEM regulators had the contacts material made such that if run at reversed polarity, you would burn up the contacts. Many (probably most) aftermarket replacement regulators had different contact materials, so that they would operate EITHER neg. or positive ground.
SO THE TYPE OF regulator determines what ground polarity you can run. Most 12V vehicles are neg ground, but some heavy trucks (White, I think) were 12V pos. ground. Who knows?? Why did Mopar use left hand lug nuts?
It is EXTREMELY important to discover which "circuit type" your system is to not only get a proper regulator, but to polarize the generator. Autolite made BOTH "A" and "B" field circuits, so you MUST figure this out.
It is EXTREMELY important that the regulator be designed for same as or SMALLER than your generator, because the regulator current relay cuts back on current, protecting the generator. Google "throwing solder."
So the main points of choosing a regulator are:
Must be able to operate on proper (neg) ground polarity, or with either poliarity
Must be proper field circuit
Must be rated at same as generator output current or LESS, IE regulator must "match" the generator. Do NOT use a "heavy duty" regulator on a light duty alternator.
(An aside: "A" and "B" field circuits are sort of analageous to Mopar early (69/ earlier) and late (70/ later) alternator regulator circuits. In the one case, the regulator controls the "ground" on the end of the field, and in the other case, the regulator is in series with power to the field.
MY QUESTION IS as clean as that photo looks, why on earth would you want to convert such a beauty to 12V?
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
That picture is not mine. My jeep was 12v when I got it, I would have to change everything back to 6v. Sometimes these 6v jeeps have a terrible time turning over even more if it is cold outside. The 12v system just works so much better.
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
Yeah sorry, I have a 12v generator from a 60's willys truck. What I need is to convert my factory correct regulator to 12V. I just want the circuit board to do the conversion to solid state 12v. Electronics are not my favorite field.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
A picture of the generator and terminals will help us. We need to know, the output polarity, and if the regulator energizes the field to +12V or pulls it to ground. It is all about internally how the the field is connected to ground or the output.
http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...s/voltage-regulator-bosch-12-volt-113903803-e Here is a solid state regulator that might work and fit in your box. Again it all depends on what you have.
http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...s/voltage-regulator-bosch-12-volt-113903803-e Here is a solid state regulator that might work and fit in your box. Again it all depends on what you have.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
So you want to end up with a 12V regulator essentially in the 6V case? Yea, a photo of the regulator is required. You MAY be able to find an existing 12v one and fit it in the case.
If the generator you want to use has a stamped tag no. you need to refer to that to get the correct regulator
As I said earlier----------
the amperage of the regulator must match or be smaller than the generator
the CIRCUIT must match, IE "A" or "B" field
But BOTH the above will be taken care of if you go by the generator number.
If it's a rebuild and the original tag has been destroyed, about all you can do is guess by application, and "lean" towards a smaller amperage, rather than larger, regulator.
If the generator you want to use has a stamped tag no. you need to refer to that to get the correct regulator
As I said earlier----------
the amperage of the regulator must match or be smaller than the generator
the CIRCUIT must match, IE "A" or "B" field
But BOTH the above will be taken care of if you go by the generator number.
If it's a rebuild and the original tag has been destroyed, about all you can do is guess by application, and "lean" towards a smaller amperage, rather than larger, regulator.
What a great thread! I'm NOT kidding!
It looks like there are some people that can help solve this dilemma & are willing to put in the effort to type in long technical replies - AWESOME!
It looks like there are some people that can help solve this dilemma & are willing to put in the effort to type in long technical replies - AWESOME!
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
The Generator number is GJC-7002K, not sure on the amperage because its out being rebuilt now. But I found this.
GENERATOR
Auto-Lite GJC-7002J (4 Cyl ), GJC-7002K ( 6 Cyl.)
Armature - Auto-Lite GJC-2030F (All Models).
Performance Data
Amperes Volts RPM
0.0 12.8 1225-1325
30.0 - 15.0 2050-2250
Brush Spring Tension 18-36 ozs.
Fi Id Current - 1.2-1.3 amps, at 10.0 volts (70°F).
R tation - Counterclockwise at commutator end.
B It Adjustment: 1/2-5/8" deflection with thumb pressure
midway between generator and water pump pulleys.
REGULATOR
Aut -Lite VRX-6009B. 12 Volt Voltage and current
type with "Temperature Compensated" Current Regulator
This is what my regulator looks like.
The tag reads
Auto-Lite
VRY 4203G 37023831
MODEL SERIAL
6 VOLT
MAX AMP 40
GENERATOR
Auto-Lite GJC-7002J (4 Cyl ), GJC-7002K ( 6 Cyl.)
Armature - Auto-Lite GJC-2030F (All Models).
Performance Data
Amperes Volts RPM
0.0 12.8 1225-1325
30.0 - 15.0 2050-2250
Brush Spring Tension 18-36 ozs.
Fi Id Current - 1.2-1.3 amps, at 10.0 volts (70°F).
R tation - Counterclockwise at commutator end.
B It Adjustment: 1/2-5/8" deflection with thumb pressure
midway between generator and water pump pulleys.
REGULATOR
Aut -Lite VRX-6009B. 12 Volt Voltage and current
type with "Temperature Compensated" Current Regulator
This is what my regulator looks like.
The tag reads
Auto-Lite
VRY 4203G 37023831
MODEL SERIAL
6 VOLT
MAX AMP 40
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Your "can" looks large enough to easily install "something else" in there. I'd just get a N.O.S. replacement to match your 12v unit and stick it in the box.
Solid state? That might be a little more difficult.
Generator regulators consists of three separate units.
1 The cutout, the oldest of all generator accessories, is a relay which disconnects the battery from the generator when not charging. These CAN be replace by a huge silicone diode, and example of one I did on a starter/ gen on a garden tractor
These are a "two unit" regulator and have no current protection relay. The cutout went bad, so I found a bridge at Radio Shack and wired two of the internal diodes in parallel. Not pretty, but hey..
2 The voltage regulator, which works surprisingly similar to an alternator -- it 'reads' voltage, and adjusts field current to keep charging voltage where it should be
3 The current relay. This protects the generator from burnout. It reads current flow out of the generator and starts to drop out as it's limit is reached. THIS would be the difficult part to build solid state, but could be done.
I don't know if there are specialty outfits which do this or not.
As I said earlier, the EASY way would be to find an automotive one and mount in your gutted case.
Solid state? That might be a little more difficult.
Generator regulators consists of three separate units.
1 The cutout, the oldest of all generator accessories, is a relay which disconnects the battery from the generator when not charging. These CAN be replace by a huge silicone diode, and example of one I did on a starter/ gen on a garden tractor
These are a "two unit" regulator and have no current protection relay. The cutout went bad, so I found a bridge at Radio Shack and wired two of the internal diodes in parallel. Not pretty, but hey..
2 The voltage regulator, which works surprisingly similar to an alternator -- it 'reads' voltage, and adjusts field current to keep charging voltage where it should be
3 The current relay. This protects the generator from burnout. It reads current flow out of the generator and starts to drop out as it's limit is reached. THIS would be the difficult part to build solid state, but could be done.
I don't know if there are specialty outfits which do this or not.
As I said earlier, the EASY way would be to find an automotive one and mount in your gutted case.
TheTecher
Evan the jeeper.
Would one for a motor cycle work? I bet its smaller and will fit inside.
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