spacer in differential carrier

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daredevil

daredevil

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How do you know if you need to take out the little disc in the middle that the axles butt up to?.
 
i think the only reason is if u are running the 28" axles that most sell these days... or running the green bearing...
 
It's the use of "Green" bearings that requires it because the thrust block (cone type sure grip) or thrust pins (clutch type sure grip) in the middle is for the stock axles to butt up to for adjustment of the stock tapered bearings. Most (if not all) of the aftermarket axles can only accept Green bearings.
 
fishy68 said:
It's the use of "Green" bearings that requires it because the thrust block (cone type sure grip) or thrust pins (clutch type sure grip) in the middle is for the stock axles to butt up to for adjustment of the stock tapered bearings. Most (if not all) of the aftermarket axles can only accept Green bearings.
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fishy, I am confused now. I am running green bearings/moser axles, with a 742 (clutch type) posi, and am not running the little spacer in the middle.
That is correct, right?
 
Ed - that's correct. Green bearings DO NOT use the spacer as there is no end play adjustment.
 
Thanks moper, I was just getting that sentence of fishy's all twisted around.
 
Looks like I had a pretty good question. The answer will help others besides me also.
 
I emailed Dr. Diff about it when I put my Greens on and it's sort of a situational answer. I ended up not taking them out of my rear end (clutch type), but I'm also running stock axles, so Dr. Diff said it wouldn't be an issue. I think someone else hit it on the head that the aftermarket axles are usually longer for more spline mesh area. I just didn't want to lose the little things if I even went back to a tapered setup, so I left them in, but if you have greens installed you don't need them.
 
Easier said than done. I pulled the carrier and now I,m thinking i need to take every thing apart to get the spacer out. is this correct or is there a trick?
 
Factory axles you should be able to leave them in place, Clutch type you can punch out the rivet in the center with a small punch and pop them out. Cone type I believe you need to pull the differential apart. Just make sure you have the splines aligned when you bolt it back together.
 
its cone. and from what i can find online i believe its gotta come apart. tempted to knock an 1/8th of each axle with a belt sander. my axles are moser so i bet they would put preload on the green bearings if i dont remove it or take a tad off the axles. is there anything wrong with shortening if you dont get them hot.
 
I have another carrier with a 4.57 gear and a clutch type s/g.I may as well trade s/g,s and use the clutch type in my 4.10 carrier. Since i,m in this deep I am gonna do it right. How hard is disassembling the clutch type to inspect for wear and is there anything i should look for to jump out at me?
 
daredevil said:
its cone. and from what i can find online i believe its gotta come apart. tempted to knock an 1/8th of each axle with a belt sander. my axles are moser so i bet they would put preload on the green bearings if i dont remove it or take a tad off the axles. is there anything wrong with shortening if you dont get them hot.
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Moper's right the cone type has to come apart. The only problem with knocking off some is you'll loose the taper on the end which you need to get the axles started back in the side gears. If you carefully grind a taper back and file the splines you'll be fine.

daredevil said:
I have another carrier with a 4.57 gear and a clutch type s/g.I may as well trade s/g,s and use the clutch type in my 4.10 carrier. Since i,m in this deep I am gonna do it right. How hard is disassembling the clutch type to inspect for wear and is there anything i should look for to jump out at me?
Click to expand...

As you probably know the clutch type is a much stronger piece and rebuildable so if you have one it's the one to use IMO. Disassembling it isn't hard at all. You just need to remember the bolts that hold it together are left hand thread and loosen them a little at a time cause it's under pressure from the clutch plates. It's really a very simple piece. Just check the spiders, splines, cross shafts, and clutch plates for wear. I've went through 4 clutch type units and never had to do anything except replace the clutches. BTW: since you haven't been in one before you may not know the clutch plates are just steel. No friction material like a regular clutch or auto trans. clutch. They have a set order to be installed as some are concave. Make sure and put them back as they should be. Here's a link to a page that has a lot of info on sure grips and shows how the clutch plates should be oriented.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/13.html

Oh yeah, when assembling either type unit you need to insert the axles to align the side gears and then tighten the case bolts a little at a time. Sometimes when you get all the bolts tightened down the axles may be a little tight. A few gentle raps with a brass hammer side to side will loosen them up.
 
spacer gone hoorah. one last question. red loctite on the bolts or ok without? I assembled without but can pull one at a time and loctite and reinstall.
 
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