Speedmaster heads revisited.

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If you would see some of the Edelbrock heads I’ve been getting to port it would bring a tear to your eyes. I swear the plunge cutter they use on the port entrance is the same one from 40 years ago. Terrible work.
Agree 100%… I noticed the metallurgy on my Bloomer heads( which are overseas castings as well)were downright pretty. It was very obvious comparing them to the Eddie’s I took off. I was surprised.
 
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Have you ever used that tubing trick on iron heads? Would it be worth the effort?

Be curious what John thinks about that.
my thought is…why?
For a ”class” type car you wouldn’t want to do it because rules wouldn’t allow it.
For any other type car, why would you throw the money/ porting, etc, etc at a limited iron head when you could buy an offset or non offset aluminum head that weighs way less, has more potential, and is cheaper to port and likely has cnc options as well.
 
Be curious what John thinks about that.
my thought is…why?
For a ”class” type car you wouldn’t want to do it because rules wouldn’t allow it.
For any other type car, why would you throw the money/ porting, etc, etc at a limited iron head when you could buy an offset or non offset aluminum head that weighs way less, has more potential, and is cheaper to port and likely has cnc options as well.

Just curious because I have a set of "ported" J heads on the shelf that I was thinking of using for a future budget build. I use quotes because I have no idea who did the work, or to what extent they've been worked. Obviously if they'll require more work, I'll scrap the idea. I'm just curious if opening up the PR pinch to the extent discussed here is generally worth the effort on iron heads.
 
Just curious because I have a set of "ported" J heads on the shelf that I was thinking of using for a future budget build. I use quotes because I have no idea who did the work, or to what extent they've been worked. Obviously if they'll require more work, I'll scrap the idea. I'm just curious if opening up the PR pinch to the extent discussed here is generally worth the effort on iron heads.

if its just a budget build I doubt I would chase the little bit of extra power a budget build would show. I know back in the day the Indybrocks with move
over pushrods were not hugely better than non moved over..10 cfm..20-25 horse maybe
And if you ever went to sell them, likely would sell to a bigger audience the closer to stock they are
 
Have you ever used that tubing trick on iron heads? Would it be worth the effort?


Sorry I was getting a package ready to ship and missed this. I got rid of five stock heads here years ago for 50.00 so I didn’t start working on one. Back then I didn’t have a valve a seat machine so everything would have been out of pocket. It’s been so long since I looked at a stock head I’m not sure if it could be tubed or not. I do know water lurks on the shortside because I followed a J or X head porting post on the Flowbench forum. He had them flowing pretty nice if I remember right. We have a friend that runs easy 9’s in his barracuda so power is available.
 
Sorry guys zero progress zero update. Boxed up and set off the RPM and Victor340 intake and spends hours on the phone with customers. Actually lost money talking one member out of buy a set of bare Speedmaster heads from me and having me port them. But time we bought the Ferrea intake and exhaust valves (400.00) we were pushing 2000.00 before springs and retainers. I talked him into ordering TrickFlow heads. Now I’m going to have to go back to eating Ramon noodles. Lord willing this head will be finished and on the flowbench tomorrow.
 
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The Speedmaster sloppiness is in the bowl under the seat and short turn. East fix but most guys aren’t going to disassemble their heads let alone take a grinder to them.
I bought mine bare and noticed this as an area for easy gains. A good valve job and bowl blend would be worth a few CFM across the board for not a lot of hassle. Does the valve that comes in the assembled heads have a back cut on it?
 
I bought mine bare and noticed this as an area for easy gains. A good valve job and bowl blend would be worth a few CFM across the board for not a lot of hassle. Does the valve that comes in the assembled heads have a back cut on it?

No backcut but it will be getting a 30 degree cut on the intake today.
 
Ok small update before I get suited up to start grinding. Customer needed spring heights so he could order springs. Number to left is the actual number with zero shims so I minus .060 for the minimum hardened shim I use. I usually prefer more when possible. Just got the heck of it I measured the valves as I figured they had to be different lengths because of the different shim packs I posted about earlier. Now this is the first and only set of heads I’ve ever ordered complete and they were set up for a .600 hydraulic roller cam. I really impressed by the looks of the 10 degree retainers and keepers. Way nicer than the 7 degree crap on Edelbrock heads that I throw in the trash bin. Now here’s the craziness in the next post.
 
Ok on this Speedmaster head the valves measure

5.040 intake
5.070 exhaust

Used Edelbrock valves
4.995 intake
5.010 exhaust

Valves I ordered from Speedmaster 2-3 years ago

4.995 intake in pro comp box
5.010 exhaust in Speedmaster box

5.010 Ferrea 2.055 intake valve.
 
Didn’t finish the valve job so no flow numbers today but the porting and double cut clean up is done on the first head. I needed parts bad so I looked up the part numbers for valve seals (6 sets) 2.055 valves (3 sets) 2.08 valves (2sets) 1.60 valves (2 sets) LS 2.02 valves (2 sets). 1000.00 at least later my order is in.
 
Didn’t finish the valve job so no flow numbers today but the porting and double cut clean up is done on the first head. I needed parts bad so I looked up the part numbers for valve seals (6 sets) 2.055 valves (3 sets) 2.08 valves (2sets) 1.60 valves (2 sets) LS 2.02 valves (2 sets). 1000.00 at least later my order is in.
Could you please share the part numbers for the valves you are using?
Thanks
 
Could you please share the part numbers for the valves you are using?
Thanks

These heads will have stock Speedmaster valves in them. He bought a complete set from me and I’m porting them. They came with hydraulic roller springs in the .600 lift area so he’s looks for softer springs right now.
 
Ok on this Speedmaster head the valves measure

5.040 intake
5.070 exhaust

Used Edelbrock valves
4.995 intake
5.010 exhaust

Valves I ordered from Speedmaster 2-3 years ago

4.995 intake in pro comp box
5.010 exhaust in Speedmaster box

5.010 Ferrea 2.055 intake valve.
All over the place. I would have expected the typical...5.011 or 5.025. Speedcrappers are supposed to be .050 longerthan stock, so around 5-5.03.
Their vj is bare essentials, 2 angle.
72,58,45,33 work very well. I dropped using 15 for 18 if I do at all. Ootb for me They go turbulent after .520, peak at 245-247. In my bench. Not racing those though.lol
If they can only cast something that didn't fall apart after .500 that would be a true out of the box head. Tubing the pushrods is definitely for a track head it can be done on the street if it's a monster type build ragged Edge and tons of gear and all that. Those reading should realize that's what we're talking about, not budget or Iron heads. At 300 ea bare... you can experiment n try all kinds of **** and be at no real lo$$. As usual great thread, thanks for sharing
 
The
F6116 (2.08)
F6114 (2.055)
F6104 (1.6 exhaust)


I struggled to get these at times so I try to have at least one set of the 2.055 and 2.08 on hand. These are the Liberty valves I order yesterday. They sound like nice valves so I went all in. You have to have an account to buy these which I don’t but a good friend does.

B33E1033-1E2E-4CA2-B452-2AED1251135E.png


E5973E47-3BDA-48A2-B79C-51EE1E845E70.png


2CD02685-D693-4D4D-89E9-A17D8DFA88D9.jpeg
 
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