Spitting Driveshafts

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

You need a yoke that has the u bolts that run all the way through and have nuts on the back. Those are the really heavy duty ones. Like a.......dare I say it.....Ford 9". lol

Those look like hardware store bolts.
Remember the moroso u joint cap sets?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Those look like hardware store bolts.
Remember the moroso u joint cap sets?

Yes sir. Solid and lotsa meat.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Yes sir. Solid and lotsa meat.

Think i have a set laying around somewhere. Was a buy and abort idea kinda thing. Didnt need it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Think i have a set laying around somewhere. Was a buy and abort idea kinda thing. Didnt need it.

Moroso 85860 Moroso U-Joint Girdles | Summit Racing

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Moroso 85860 Moroso U-Joint Girdles | Summit Racing

 

[RustyRatRod]

Bein steel, I like these better, I believe.
Fast Shafts BBSK-10 Fastshafts Billet U-Bolt Strap Kits | Summit Racing

 

[furrystump]

The instant center is the front spring eye. To determine the % of rise draw a line from the contact patch of the tire through the spring eye extending up through the horizontal center of gravity line. Yours has to be 2’ in front of the rear axle almost! The farther forward they intersect the less % of rise. The front leaning angle of the shock and the way it is attached probably helps with spring wrap. Very neat!

 

[crackedback]

Just a thought. Is the pinion snubber (AKA Doorstop around here) deflecting into the your yoke, causing the shaft to spit?

I've seen those Moroso retainer cause more issues than they solved.

 

[furrystump]

U bolts here. Not sure of the cost of the Moroso caps, but you are going with new yokes, why not just go u bolts? No pinion snubber here either

 

[furrystump]

I have never heard of modifying a strap yoke to work with u-bolts.

 

[12many]

Converted the 7260 yokes to u-bolts, new hd u-joints, also found that the trans had shifted on the rubber mount (a crappy aftermarket rubber isolator with a sleeve that didn’t hold together) had shifted to the left at some point by almost a 1/4” so I shimmed it to put it where it belongs, trans yoke now again parallel to the pinion yoke (as measured side to side) Fabricated a 2”x3” cross brace w/snubber plate to replace the thin and too short wholly inadequate factory steel piece. Added 2° more downwards pinion angle. Moved the shocks inwards a 1/4” to clear for the addition of 1 more leaf spring clamp. Got 4° down tail-shaft, 7° driveshaft and 2° up pinion. Best I can do, reassess my suspension settings, maybe limit the amount of rise and go from there.