Spring Relocation Question

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DartOS

DartOS

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I'm building my own spring relocation kit. My question is: if I mount the front spring boxes flush with the outside frame rails that leaves about 3/4" offset to the inside. Do I weld the rear tube 3/4" offset to the inside as well? All the pics I've seen the tube is centered in the frame. Seems logical to off set it as well to keep from any binding. Am I correct in thinking this? Also, if I move the front spring hole to the rear 1" (to gain tire size) and use the existing hole in the frame for the rear spring, this effectively reduces the length of the spring mounting by 2". Will this cause problems?
Thanks
 
there are 2 ways to do it,

1st use has offset front hangers that move the spring in 3/4", and use a 3/4" offset shackle in the rear...
Here are the basics...

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/offset.html
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ofshacset.html

2nd "The Kit" moves the rear shackle through the frame(like you have seen), and the you cut/weld a new box into the frame up front that the spring sits between also. Looks like this...

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/sprinrelkit.html

P.S.

i have the 2nd type minus shackles/bushings I am not gonna use... yours for $50 if interested...
 
The shackles are offset so the rear spring hanger stays where it is. If you move the spring back 1" it may position the rear shackles too far backwards unless there is ample arc in the spring to counter it.
 
i follow what your saying,i just completed the same on a 69 dart and am helping currently on a 67 dart, and the answer is yes. The things to watch for is the taper in the frame, its wider in the front where you will weld in the box then it is in the back. Make sure the tube you weld in the rear is the same width as the spring, so your shackle bolts up square.Once your boxes are welded in, hang the springs and make sure the springs are parallel, and it will kind of show you where the tube needs to be welded. i think most of the offset is to the inside.Im probably not making much sense, but measure everything! As for moving the springs back one inch, i really dont think it will matter. i put my spring in the stock location and should have moved it back. both my 69 and the 67 have the rear shackle tube welded in the same location as the stock hanger would have it. it will just angle the shackle a little more on the 67.
 
A couple pics to give you an idea..










P.S the bushings in the rear frame are flush and fit in the tubes supplied in the kit.

car pics 66 Dart 090.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 094.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 092.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 089.jpg
 
I misunderstood you DartOS, I thought you were just doing the offset hangers not the move to the frame rail. I`m sorry I can`t help you there.
 
As you can see, I've built the front spring boxes but have not drilled the holes. If I move the holes back 1" in the front spring hangers and install the spring tubes at the rear in the existing hole in the frame, will this cause the shackle to bottom out on the frame? If I drill holes at the rear that match up with the existing rear pearch holes, I don't think there is sufficient clearence for the shackles to clear the rear supports. I could have new springs built that are approximately 2" shorter than stock and solve all problems. That's not going to be cheap!!! th_P1010531.jpg

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th_P1010564.jpg

th_P1010566.jpg

th_P1010531.jpg


P1010561.jpg


th_P1010564.jpg


th_P1010566.jpg
 
From other pics I have seen from other peoples builds. The existing hole just barely works. If you are putting that much work into the car and you have the rotissery to get a good angle, I would just weld up the existing and make a new sleeved hole back further. just my opinion though.
 
You need to do to the back what you do to the front. If you move the front 1" then you need to move the back 1" in the same direction. If you don't then you will be limiting the travel the spring has and it will make for a ruff ride.
 
I think if the rear shackel location is moved back 1'' it will contact the frame support for the origional mounting bracket.
 
After a whole lot of measuring and calculations, I've decided that sliders are the best way to go. I made multiple adjustments in the front spring hangers (stock, 1 1/2" lowered and 1" to the rear). The sliders should be here tomorrow. I may need to modify them (lengthen them 1") to accommodate the for the rear most setting. By making the front hangers from 3/16 material, there's enough meat there I should have several more settings if needed.
P1010573.jpg
 
I tried to order the sliders through Summit,they won,t ship them to Canada?WTF?Must be a safety issue?Who knows?I may have to get an American member to buy for me then ship?
 
I have a question to those of you using sliders. The aluminum bushing that came with the kit measures .950 OD and the eye on the spring measures .897. Don't all A body leaf springs have the same ID? I realize the bushing needs to fit tight but .053 seems too much. I can chuck the bushing up in the lathe and turn it down .030 or .040. If I press it into the spring the way it is i'm affraid it will s
P1010580.jpg
[/IMG]rink the ID and bind on the inner bushing. Have any of you run across this?
 
I"m not sure what the difference is between Speedway and Jegs sliders! Speedway now ownes AFCO. JEGS sells AFCO. Don't believe everything the "tech guru's" at JEGS tells you. I called AFCO right after I got off the phone with "Mr. Guru" and was assured I did have the CORRECT kit. He said the .053 was OK and proceed with pressing them in the spring eyes. I'm not bad mouthing JEGS, but I sure got the feeling I was bothering him with my question. Two seconds after I explained the situation he said "They won't work".
That's it. No reason, how's the weather, how's your grandmother. Nothing!!!!!!!!!
 
I still say you should cut off the shackle mounts and drill two holes back there in the frame, one for stock and the other for the 1" off set. But thats just me.
 
Burntorange70, I took part of your suggestion on cutting the rear frame out. I didn't like the way the sliders were looking and considering the fact that I have to drive on gravel roads to and from my house, I thought they might not be the best overall solution. After measuring the angle of the rear shackles(loaded and unloaded) I found that if I notched the rear brace 2 1/4" this would give ample room for stock spring mounting or 1" to the rear mounting. By drilling the hole in the same place as the original rear hanger I gained the 1" I was needing. The existing hole in the frame that most suggested I use, is 1" closer to the front. I didn't want to remove the complete rear frame since that portion helps support the outer bolts for the rear bumper. And also the rotisserie is bolted to it!!!! Thanks for the idea.
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What are you doing with the sliders? Selling or sending back? So this does not get moved to the forsale section, PM me if you sell them.
 
I've got them packaged and ready to send back. $150 can go towards new springs. If you want them at that price, let me know?
 
I am good, I just did not know if they would take them back once you had semi mounted them. Good luck with the build.
 
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