stall or not to all?

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joshua dewitt

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hey yall, 73 dart swinger built 318, have a cam p4452782 cam factory 340repo cam
429/444, idle to 5500/. using air gap intake holley /summit 600 cfm, vacc. sec. 9.5/1 compression ( 0 decked pistons) #302casting heads. rebuilding a new a904 for car, old one slips so bad.... just worn out.... wont handle the new engine... gear 3.50 with 28" mickey on back.... what stall would be good for this combo? 1800-2000 stall form tci? or any other brand that is a 2500 stall? don't want is to rev all the way up to that stall to get the car to creep into the driveway/garage, ok for red light take off though. never used a stall converter other than stock before... any thoughts, I want is fully streetable with some punch... any thought, I"ve already talked to the custom converter guys, the cheapest one out there is PTC and is 500.00.... a little too rich for me, I can get a high stall 1700-2200 from Torco, 189.00 reman. or tci/ hughes, etc for around 300.00... not a drag car. ( looks like one though) just really imitatedating...
 
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Cheap converters never work out, either stay stock, or wait until you can get the bucks to do it right. Been there, done that. Have the red oil stained t-shirts. It's too much work to swap and way too important, if not the MOST important part of a combination.

Don't **** around.

That being said. Factory hi-stall is available from gopnh.com. Great prices.
 
Do NOT cheap out on the stall converter. I put a 2k stall in a camaro I had once. Barely noticeable. Something in the 3000-4000 range is where I'm going next. You can drive them on the street easily if it's setup right.
I've always been told to never run a stall without a GOOD tyranny cooler.
 
I have a 4500 rpm stall in my big block dart. Around town it drives like stock! Do not even waste your time and money on an aftermarket converter unless you want to do it right! A nice converter from dynamic (frank lupo) will bring your car to life! Trust me it's the best money you will spend. You already did the hard part and built a stout little engine, why get cheap/lazy now?
 
I agree 100% not to cheap out on the converter.......BUT I cannot justify spending 600 bucks on what will basically be a stock factory high stall 340 converter......which is about all you need.
 
Remember that stall selection varies WIDELY based on your motor. A "2500" stall behind your sorta stock 318 is nothing like the exact same converter behind a sorta stock 440. The input torque changes how the converter performs, and can do so drastically.

A friend has a very similar build in his dart, and I think he's got a 3800 stall in it. Drives GREAT around town, and his stall his right where it needs to be for full throttle fun. Remember that the Converter still converts below stall rpm, and there's a lot more there than "on n off".

That said, does that mean you want a 3800 stall? NO! Manufacture A is going rate differently than manufacturer B.

Call the converter manufacturers, explain what you got and what you want to do. They won't lead you astray, they want you to be happy with what you buy. And like the rest said, don't cheap out.
 
You want cheap,I have a stock converter with the stall raised to around 2200, if interested. Stall was raised by Roadrunner, here in Phoenix.
Worked on a somewhat stockish 318 just fine with 2.76 gears.
 
where do you get a factory converter like the 340 stall converter for a internal balanced 318, and a904? from what I've been reading would do well. I really want a converter that fits well 1st time, I've already put a used 1978 a904 l/up in it, and was rebuilt I was told, but it is total crap. slips and no movement before 1700-2000 rpm... literally,,, this time, the original 1973 a904 is being rebuilt b me, all the goodies going in it and a tf-2 shift kit with 5 clutch forward...and billet servos, all ready drilled rear of case for relocated vent. not doing the used thing again. all that exhaust removal will only do one more time... pain in the *** on my back!!!
 
Google Precision of New Hampton and give them a call.
 
Josh
lighten up, this is supposed to be fun.
I couldn't find specs on your p4452792 cam, but I did find specs on P4452782, which I assume is the same cam. 268/276/114. installed at 112, this cam has an ICA of 66*. I assume your compression spec of 6.5/1 is a typo, and that you are closer to 9.5. If that is right, then your Dcr comes in around 7.5/146psi. This is kindof low,(the stock teener comes in around 7.1Dcr) and means the take-off torque will be a little soft(only a wee bit better than the stocker). If you have the 2.45/1.45/1.00 A-904 and 3.50s, then (with 2.45x3.5=8.58 starter gear) you are already in pretty good shape.
The stock teener performs quite nicely with a 2400TC, and a free-flowing exhaust.Even with a bit less gear.
And you may already know how the stocker performs with the stock TC and 2.76s.As I recall the stock 904-TC was around 2200, while the 340/727 was around 2350.
I can't tell you how much TC stall you should have, on account of I don't know how strongly you want to blast off.
I can tell you I have been happy with a 2400 behind a stocker, with 3.55s and a 2.74 first-gear (9.73starter). I mightabin happier with a 2800...:)
 
Call paul at turbo action he built one for my car and it works great. i would not deal with any other company believe me i went through 3 stall convertor changes before i went to turbo action.Do not buy any brand off shelf have it built for your cars specs.Save your money and do it right
 
Call paul at turbo action he built one for my car and it works great. i would not deal with any other company believe me i went through 3 stall convertor changes before i went to turbo action.Do not buy any brand off shelf have it built for your cars specs.Save your money and do it right
I agree. I run a S800 10" TQ from Turbo Action and love it for my street/strip car. Drives like grandma's car until you mash the pedal.
 
my opinion is to save,work OT sell some things and find the money for a good converter. a converter can and will make or break a combo. a stock high stall may work ok but i'll bet it will be on the too tight side. we are talking 40+ year old technology. i ran one in my car when i put a temporary stock 360 in my yellow dart. worked well for what i was doing at the the time. i would never have used it as a long term thing though... you can't believe the difference a modern converter set up for your combo makes. with a modern converter you can get a higher stall converter that acts stock on the street. it really is the best of all worlds. if you want everything you can get out of your combo get a good converter.
but hey thats just my opinion.. take it for what its worth.
 
hey yall, 73 dart swinger built 318, have a cam p4452782 cam factory 340repo cam
429/444, idle to 5500/. using air gap intake holley /summit 600 cfm, vacc. sec. 9.5/1 compression ( 0 decked pistons) #302casting heads. rebuilding a new a904 for car, old one slips so bad.... just worn out.... wont handle the new engine... gear 3.50 with 28" mickey on back.... what stall would be good for this combo? 1800-2000 stall form tci? or any other brand that is a 2500 stall? don't want is to rev all the way up to that stall to get the car to creep into the driveway/garage, ok for red light take off though. never used a stall converter other than stock before... any thoughts, I want is fully streetable with some punch... any thought, I"ve already talked to the custom converter guys, the cheapest one out there is PTC and is 500.00.... a little too rich for me, I can get a high stall 1700-2200 from Torco, 189.00 reman. or tci/ hughes, etc for around 300.00... not a drag car. ( looks like one though) just really imitatedating...
 
hey ajforms...... I had all kinds of typos.. I have since corrected them... was tired and long day. FTC came back with a 2200-2400 for 289.00 plus freight... now that is about what I wanted... anyone used them? and would 2400-2500 be better? also have a 100 NOS shot on car but not active yet.
 
don't want is to rev all the way up to that stall to get the car to creep into the driveway/garage, ok for red light take off though.

never used a stall converter other than stock before... .

You need to educate yourself on convertors.

To give you an idea, an F150 stalls around 1700RPM.

What you are referring to is flash stall. Meaning under load, mash your foot to the floor, what RPM does it go to.

My car has a 3500 stall. My last car was about 4,000. You feel it go into gear. It will move the car in the driveway at 800RPM idle without giving it any gas. It drives like a normal car around town and down the highway. Whack it to the floor under load and it snaps to 3500 and goes.

In a perfect world the convertor you need is 500RPM over where you make peak torque. When you call a convertor company, (do not buy an off the shelf junk converter from summit etc) they will ask you for the dyno numbers followed by the intended use, gear and weight of the vehicle. Again, that's in a perfect world. My car makes peak torque at 3500 and I run a 3500 convertor.
 
hey yall, 73 dart swinger built 318, have a cam p4452792 cam factory 340repo cam
429/444, idle to 5500/. using air gap intake holley /summit 600 cfm, vacc. sec. 6.5/1 compression ( 0 decked pistons) #302casting heads. rebuilding a new a904 for car, old one slips so bad.... just worn out.... wont handle the new engine... gear 3.50 with 28" mickey on back.... what stall would be good for this combo? 1800-2000 stall form tci? or any other brand that is a 2500 stall? don't want is to rev all the way up to that stall to get the car to creep into the driveway/garage, ok for red light take off though. never used a stall converter other than stock before... any thoughts, I want is fully streetable with some punch... any thought, I"ve already talked to the custom converter guys, the cheapest one out there is PTC and is 500.00.... a little too rich for me, I can get a high stall 1700-2200 from Torco, 189.00 reman. or tci/ hughes, etc for around 300.00... not a drag car. ( looks like one though) just really imitatedating...
6.5-1 compression?? Assuming typo. Check out edge racing converters. I got their 2600 stall for a 727 behind my 440. I'm really happy with it for street use. Doesn't seem overstalled, but when you hammer it, it flashes to 2600ish and grabs. Like 250ish delivered.
 
You need to educate yourself on convertors.

To give you an idea, an F150 stalls around 1700RPM.

What you are referring to is flash stall. Meaning under load, mash your foot to the floor, what RPM does it go to.

My car has a 3500 stall. My last car was about 4,000. You feel it go into gear. It will move the car in the driveway at 800RPM idle without giving it any gas. It drives like a normal car around town and down the highway. Whack it to the floor under load and it snaps to 3500 and goes.

In a perfect world the convertor you need is 500RPM over where you make peak torque. When you call a convertor company, (do not buy an off the shelf junk converter from summit etc) they will ask you for the dyno numbers followed by the intended use, gear and weight of the vehicle. Again, that's in a perfect world. My car makes peak torque at 3500 and I run a 3500 convertor.

Here is another example. 1989 Dodge Spirit 2.5 Turbo I, 3 speed auto, stock stall rpm 3500-3800rpm.
 
pual from turbo action, recommended 10" to 11" s-800 medium unit stalls at 3500, anyone used this? with what rear gears?
 
Florida torque converter said can make me one 2200-2400 stall for 289.00 plus the ride. anybody used them before?
 
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