Stalls in gear HELP please !!

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doopdoop67

doopdoop67

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Hey y'all got a weird problem got my 6 running finally and runs/revs great in park/neutral. Once I put it into gear it idles fine but once the motor gets a load on it it stalls out. The car is an automatic. I tuned the carb adjusted timing checked for vacuum leaks tried capped vacuum advance checks spark changed the points changed the coil has good plug wires on it. I have no idea what else to check!??? Any advice!? Got a big car show I help put on Saturday and I want the car to be there. Asked all the hot rodders and old timers I know and they are all stumped. Any advice/tips I would really appreciate. Thanks guys!
 
doopdoop67 said:
Hey y'all got a weird problem got my 6 running finally and runs/revs great in park/neutral. Once I put it into gear it idles fine but once the motor gets a load on it it stalls out. The car is an automatic. I tuned the carb adjusted timing checked for vacuum leaks tried capped vacuum advance checks spark changed the points changed the coil has good plug wires on it. I have no idea what else to check!??? Any advice!? Got a big car show I help put on Saturday and I want the car to be there. Asked all the hot rodders and old timers I know and they are all stumped. Any advice/tips I would really appreciate. Thanks guys!
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carb lean? float low?
 
Runs fine sitting still, but stalls under a load? Sure sounds like a carb.
 
fuel pump pressure maybe?
 
At idle,Not concerned about pressure,nor volume.The only things that affect response to load going from idle/no-load to idle/loaded,are; correctness of float level,pump-shot at tip-in, and T-port sync. And PV operation must remain off.
If the T-port sync is off,Likely so will be the timing, and the transfers will likely be dried up.So that makes two strikes.If the float level is unstable, too high or too low, that would be three strikes. You can put a hundred carbs on there, with faulty Syncs and you will still have a hundred stalls.
 
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Could be a number of things; carb seems most likely. What carb is on there?

What coil did you install? And measure your ballast resistor when cold; it should be less than 1 ohm. If higher, it is the wrong one.

Check the points gap; it should open to about .017-.018" maximum. Your symptom is common for a too narrow points gap.

Will the spark from a spark plug wire wire jump a 1/4" to 3/8" gap in open air? (Seeing if it will jump across a spark plug gap in open air is nowhere nearly a good test of spark energy so if you did that, you don't know if it is good.)
 
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I have seen new coils bad out of the box..... Tried the old one again?
 
Please post what you find. Mine does this until you drive it about 10 minutes down the road. Bad thing when you have a bunch of traffic lights close to home.
 
Edit to post 10
Two more things are too high an idle with too tight a convertor, or a locked-up convertor.
It's all about the sudden loss of airspeed past the idle discharge ports and bleeds.Loss of air speed means loss of signal, which means loss of fuel, and that leads to loss of crank locomotion.
 
slantsixdan said:
When's the last time you did a valve adjustment?
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That's a real good question. One day I had nothing better to do, so I was messing with the valve adjustment on my old slanty. When I got the intake too tight, I kinda noticed your symptoms. I had forgotten all about that.I think I finally settled on 13/22, at around 70*F engine temp. Ima guessing.
 
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