steering coupler removal

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terry

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hi folks is there a way to remove the coupler from a manual steering box even after i have drilled out the pin and of course used a hammer but to no progress yet? the usual wd-40 soaking didn't help. i'd like to sell the box but feel it should be removed first.
terry
 
I've had some rusted up stuff but never had to drill out the coupler roll pin. You may have a remaining fragment of the pin still in your coupler.

If I get something that appears stuck, grab a propane/map gas torch and heat up the coupler around the roll pin. You can spray it with PB blaster and it may wick into the area.

And, I've tried to beat the roll pin out the wrong way too... DOH!!!
 
i would just sell the gear box but tell them your going to store it for them untill the car is ready to drop it for them.
 
I'm trying to remove the power steering box from my 1971 Duster. Have removed the roll pin, I have removed the bolts from the firewall mounting plate and loosened the bolts from the under dash mounting bracket but can't get the steering shaft and coupler to come off the steering box spline. anyone have any suggestions on what I should do next

Thanks
Ken
 
Ken Blackman said:
I'm trying to remove the power steering box from my 1971 Duster. Have removed the roll pin, I have removed the bolts from the firewall mounting plate and loosened the bolts from the under dash mounting bracket but can't get the steering shaft and coupler to come off the steering box spline. anyone have any suggestions on what I should do next

Thanks
Ken
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I find an air chisel with a blunt blade will knock them loose and off.
 
I've been trying to remove and replace my power steering gear box and I am having trouble getting the coupler pin drilled out and even drive it out. Does anyone know what size the pin is so I am using the right size bit. Ive never seen anything so difficult in my lifetime to remove even with pb blasterand all.
 
hammer-60 said:
I've been trying to remove and replace my power steering gear box and I am having trouble getting the coupler pin drilled out and even drive it out. Does anyone know what size the pin is so I am using the right size bit. Ive never seen anything so difficult in my lifetime to remove even with pb blasterand all.
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I know it! Had this problem myself. Once you get the correct "chisel" don't know the exact name, but it is 5/16. Make sure you are pounding the right way, it only comes out one way.
 
Ken Blackman said:
I'm trying to remove the power steering box from my 1971 Duster. Have removed the roll pin, I have removed the bolts from the firewall mounting plate and loosened the bolts from the under dash mounting bracket but can't get the steering shaft and coupler to come off the steering box spline. anyone have any suggestions on what I should do next

Thanks
Ken
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Terry- No new ideas...posted below how I got power strg box out.

Ken,
Minor hijack of Terry's thread, but as I removed my power strg box from my 71 Duster recently here's what I did after removing the pin and firewall bolts. I removed the TWO steering column nuts (front) and ONE bolt (rear) dropped it down slightly off the two front studs, and kept back pressure on the column while a friend lightly tapped with a small hammer on the shaft where it joins the power steering box. Make sure you've disconnected the transmission linkage from the column inside the engine compartment. Now the unexpected part...factory service manual says the box should come out the bottom--guy who wrote that obviously never did it. After pulling the arm and removing the three bolts the box was loose, but there was NO WAY we could get it out the bottom...stock 71 340 with stock manifolds. Sooo, off came the exhaust manifold...take your time and don't break a bolt off...lots of wiggling back and forth. Next surprise was antifreeze coming out of the rear most bolt. Don't know if that's just my heads being drilled too far years ago...or if that's factory...just might have a bucket ready. Luckily it came off no problem and the power steering box came out the top. New bolts, gasket, steer and gear pump went back in reverse order in eventfully. Good Luck!
 
I haven't seen the split pin that was tapered. ( the roll pin at the top of wheel locking columns is tapered ). The split pin will drive out from either end but I've always centered the steering gear first so they master spline is on the top. That places the split pin to the fender side. Proper pin drift and a hammer.
That pin should be hardened steel too and very difficult to impossible to drill out. Just drive it out. I drop the steering column but not so far as to cause a bind at the coupling. I stack shop manuals in the drivers seat under the steering wheel to get the angle I want. Then I can use a ball joint splitter ( pickle fork ) to move the box coupling off the gear box.
 
The coupler uses a roll pin and only goes in and out through the side that has a cup to the hole. Also hammering on it is pretty hard on the input shaft and seal. On a box that I plan on keeping I block the shaft on the underside. Then I use a large pry bar to slide off the coupler, not a hammer. I use large channel locks to install the pin. Done this a gazillion times over the last 40 years especially with the 150+ cars I've parted out but mostly desert cars and even then can be tough to do. I can see how rust belt cars could a real chore.
 

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I had trouble removing it from my 72 Dart. I sprayed the coupler around the roll pin with Kroil oil, unbolted the steering column from the firewall, more kroil oil, unhooked the tranmission linkage, a little more kroil oil, then blocked underneath the coupler, aligned it where I could see the roll pin, a little bit of heat, the with a round punch with a flat face, slowly tapped the punch with mild to moderate force with occassional heat and kroil oil and it gave up its fight and drove the pin out. I then took a crow bar and seperated the couple from the gear box inut shaft.
Patience, a little heat, and kroil oil did the trick for me. I work in an industrial setting with high pressure and high temperature and the only penetrate we use is kroil oil. Not trying to sell the product but I have seen it used on over 40 year old equipment under over 2000# of pressure and over 700*F heat and it penetrates and loosens. Just passing on what I have personally seen.
 
I'm in the process of removing my steering box. Harbor Freight has a set of longer pin punches for $9 that I just picked up. Perfect for this job because they're long enough to drive it all the way through. A little oil on the pin and it drove out easy. I came at it from the top and blocked it from underneath. Figured I should edit and add that this is the large roll pin locking the coupler to the steering box.

punch.jpg
 
Robj said:
I'm in the process of removing my steering box. Harbor Freight has a set of longer pin punches for $9 that I just picked up. Perfect for this job because they're long enough to drive it all the way through. A little oil on the pin and it drove out easy. I came at it from the top and blocked it from underneath. Figured I should edit and add that this is the large roll pin locking the coupler to the steering box.

View attachment 1715174854
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Thanks for saying that, btw. WD-40 and the correct drive pin punch, and you should not have any problem driving that roll pin out of the coupler. Heat will damage the seals on that steering box input shaft , for those who are not re-building the steering box.
 
Robj said:
I'm in the process of removing my steering box. Harbor Freight has a set of longer pin punches for $9 that I just picked up. Perfect for this job because they're long enough to drive it all the way through. A little oil on the pin and it drove out easy. I came at it from the top and blocked it from underneath. Figured I should edit and add that this is the large roll pin locking the coupler to the steering box.

View attachment 1715174854
Click to expand...
I bought and used the same set. On my 66 barracuda, I stuck the end of the punch in the female end of a 3/8" drive extension and wrapped some tape around it to hold it. Gave me the room I needed to give it a good wack with a hammer, and the Roll pin came out.
 
No the coupler itself comes right off did it many times. OP before it went sideways.
 
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