Still overheating

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I tend to agree about the plate. It needs more holes I think. A friend made it, and I like the look, but if that's the problem...
 
This radiator blocking design is showing up more and more often now. It must be the fashionable thing in the car world these days.

And everyone has the same cooling problems....

It's like covering your 62" big screen TV with a piece of cardboard that has 2, 20" holes cut in it.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
This radiator blocking design is showing up more and more often now. It must be the fashionable thing in the car world these days.

And everyone has the same cooling problems....

It's like covering your 62" big screen TV with a piece of cardboard that has 2, 20" holes cut in it.
Click to expand...

LOL.. right on..

Well,, this way you know which vehicles are "trailer queens", and which cars are truly driven..
 
What size are those fans what cfm. Yes cut some holes it that shroud. Put spring in lower hose.
 
In addition to the shroud being an issue, be sure the fans are wired correctly and PULLING AIR through the Radiator, NOT PUSHING AIR Forward. Easy way to reverse the way the blades spin is to swap + & - leads. The fan will spin the opposite way.
 
Here's my combo that works.
512 ci. engine.
11.3-1 comp
Eddy ported head
tti headers
Total timing 34 degree's
26 inch radiator
2 electric fans on electrical thermostatic controls
I run Evans coolant that doesn't boil over till400 degrees
Car runs 10.30's
Pump gas street driven car





 
Evans coolant. Ill check into that. I really hate to cut holes into the shroud. It seems to be doing the same thing it was before the radiator change. I had a radiator out of a international truck, big and ugly. I hate to wrap the headers, But I think that's where the problem lies. I bought fender well headers, but can't bring myself to install them (ugly). I read once to remove the thermostat, and put a washer in it's place. I have no heater. No need with these headers. A 13 mile trip brought the temp to 220 at 55mph yesterday. I have some Wynns water treatment I'm going to put in.
 
plydus340 said:
Evans coolant. Ill check into that. I really hate to cut holes into the shroud. It seems to be doing the same thing it was before the radiator change. I had a radiator out of a international truck, big and ugly. I hate to wrap the headers, But I think that's where the problem lies. I bought fender well headers, but can't bring myself to install them (ugly). I read once to remove the thermostat, and put a washer in it's place. I have no heater. No need with these headers. A 13 mile trip brought the temp to 220 at 55mph yesterday. I have some Wynns water treatment I'm going to put in.
Click to expand...

Either cut holes in the plate or build a stand-off frame that will move the plate about 1" from the face of the radiator fins. The frame should be a simple rectangular piece that keeps all of the air that goes thru the radiator inside the shroud plenum so that the fans pull all the air thru all the fins. Yes, check the air flow from the fans! I've seen them blowing forward instead of sucking air thru the radiator. Keep the thermostat. Add the spring in lower hose.

After doing this, then road test it and see if you need more remedies.
 
Dude ....remove the plate, and remount the fans with something that blocks as little of the airflow as possible. The engine does not know that anyone thinks it looks nice or that the guy who made it is a great fabricator; it only know that the coolant that it pumps to the rad still comes back nice and hot. Evans, t'stat, header wrap, etc. is not the answer here; the air flow to the rad is highly blocked, and the rad cannot do its job. Air hitting that plate will NOT be diverted through the fan openings; it will simply not move through most of the rad. This plate has turned your nice 26" radiator into the equivalent of a 10-12" wide radiator.

The following is only directed at this plate, not at you....

:pukerigh: >>> this plate
What I would do to this plate >>>> :axe:

This plate as part of a cooling system = insane and only belongs on a low-rider that never goes over 5 mph...
 
The reason I post pictures is that sometimes it easier to have a visual aid to go along with the post.

You need to decide if you want a trailer queen or a street car.
If you want to drive your car your fan shroud needs to go.
You have no air flow going threw your radiator.
The only flow is directly behind your fans.
There's not enough space behind the shroud to draw air to cool the engine.

As far as Evans coolant go's.
Using heat correctly can build hp and fuel economy.
Used correctly it won't boil over and wet the track down if you race.
Not trying to be rude,but somewhere in these post is you answer.
 
Here is the factory fan shroud for our Jensen radiator about 26" wide core. It tapers towards the center for more volume of space in the center. In your case just put a lip on it 1" tall around the perimeter as mentioned.

Secondly, drill four 3" or 2" holes opposite each fan and put a flap over each set of holes. Hold the flap at the top with flat bar aluminum or steel with screws thru it.

You can see where the flaps go on this factory rad shroud. They have a built in horizontal bar inside the flap hole to help prevent the flap from being sucked thru inwards when the fans are on and there is negative pressure inside the plenum. They also have a horizontal flat bar that goes across the top of the flap and is screwed to the shroud frame to hold the flaps.
 

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rice nuker said:
here is the factory fan shroud for our jensen radiator about 26" wide core. It tapers towards the center for more volume of space in the center. In your case just put a lip on it 1" thick around the perimeter as mentioned.

Secondly, drill four 3" or 2" holes opposite each fan and put a flap over each set of holes. Hold the flap at the top with flat bar aluminum or steel with screws thru it.

You can see where the flaps go on this factory rad shroud. They have a built in horizontal bar inside the flap hole to help prevent the flap from being sucked thru inwards when the fans are on and there is negative pressure inside the plenum. They also have a horizontal flat bar that goes across the top of the flap and is screwed to the shroud frame to hold the flaps.
Click to expand...

x2
 
I would go even further. Take all that stuff off the car, and put on a 6 blade fan as large in diameter as will fit. Put on a factory style fan shroud. Almost every time I read about a cooling problem it has an electric fan. I would rather lose a few hp than have all the issues.
 
I take offense at the " Trailer Queen " monicker. It's obvious my car is a pro street. Trailer queen refers to all show and no go. Taz goes. I will do something about the shroud. I wonder how many replying here have shoehorned a RB into a A body? That is the category I posted this thread in. I built the elephant ears myself, and the car represents a 10 year build. Thank you all for the input. I will let you know how it goes.:thumleft:
 
What is that pulley setup ? looks like A/C pulleys cobbled up to work on non A/C car. get correct pulleys, get a fan clutch and get that cookie sheet off the back of the radiator lol
 
If you look up a Jensen - factory 440 you'll see that we have similar space constraints, mine are worse but it does fit so I didn't have to fab it in there. The Jensen is 4200 pounds ( so they say I've never weighed it) and 308 gears. Cooling system is priority :)

Good luck on your beast. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
plydus340 said:
I take offense at the " Trailer Queen " monicker. It's obvious my car is a pro street. Trailer queen refers to all show and no go. Taz goes. I will do something about the shroud. I wonder how many replying here have shoehorned a RB into a A body? That is the category I posted this thread in. I built the elephant ears myself, and the car represents a 10 year build. Thank you all for the input. I will let you know how it goes.:thumleft:
Click to expand...

I've done 14 swaps.
Once did a complete swap-engine trans and rear end in 10 hrs.
I have to admit I used Schumacher headers and mounts.
It's not that hard to do after you done a few.
Heating problems
Air water flow
Timing
Jetting
As long as your cams installed right that should not be a problem.
I wasn't calling your car a Trailer Queen.
I just wanted to know what you were going to do with your car.
 
See it need flow air needs to be able to flow through. If it's not allowed to breath then what good does it do? Yesbive put a BB in an A body.
 
You seem to take offence a lot.
And I get pissed off easily.
Been there done that.
Just trying to help.

Kick in around with Terry McMillen.


Top end of track


Jim Head in his tow van


Getting suited up




You never know who's kickin around these boards.
 
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