Stop in for a cup of coffee

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@halifaxhops , I took it apart and removed the very strong spring, working great now
Still a great buy for 10 bucks on Pettit Jean Mt

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Agree, she is talking bourbon :lol:
I bet you met her already! Lol..

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Ya,does it use a u-joint or that ball and trunnion setup?
I have a cable shift ball and trunnion here, no use for it, condition unknown. But it was 65 barracuda floor shift.

Ball and Trunion.

Appreciate the offer. Floor shift cable is too short I'm pretty sure. I need like 40" (+/-)
 
2013 Hyundai Elantra. Charge A/C system, Change Spark Plugs, Front Brake Pads and Rotors...Cake job......Unless the A/C system doesn't hold the charge...
 
Late to the party. Cold start issues?

Warmed engine to operating temp (150 degrees indicated) last night. Checked fluid level - just above the "add 1 Pint" line so measured and added that amount of fluid.

This morning... zero responsiveness from the tranny when started Park lever is slack, push buttons have no "feel" to them just in and out effortlessly

65 degrees outside - overcast

Have to wait for engine to reach operating temp and then play around with the Park Lever and Push buttons... Usually end up getting Reverse back first...very slow to engage at that. Then Drive comes back but slowly as well.

After the long drive this morning the push buttons were crisp and responsive as normal. Allowed the engine to cool (180 degrees when I parked) and same issue, zero responsiveness or feedback from either Park lever or push buttons until the system warmed and then sluggish and inconsistent response.

1964 Valiant
225 Slant 6
A904 Torqueflite pushbutton
Using Valvoline DEX MERC ATF
Hot engine fluid check reads at the "full" mark,

Changed Park cable approximately one month ago. Did not experience any changes in performance (old cable was leaking heavily)

Changed transmission cooler rubber lines under the hood and since then it's been totally out there with this condition.
 
I would bet some gunk got somewhere it does not belong. Be careful driving it like that. It low pressure is present you will burn out the band's clutches...
 
I would drain everything and remove the valve body. Disassemble it and clean everything. Re assemble. Cost nothing but fluid and gasket. Before trans burns itself out. Might not fix it but a place to start.
 
I would drain everything and remove the valve body. Disassemble it and clean everything. Re assemble. Cost nothing but fluid and gasket. Before trans burns itself out. Might not fix it but a place to start.

That's what I was thinking. Been reading on specs for double checking the band torques once the pan is dropped I may go pick up a system pressure test kit and check hdraulic pressure after getting it reassembled.
 
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