Stop in for a cup of coffee

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I actually need to "loosen" them up and shim them to push the lca toward the rear.
 

It was that way with the /6 when it got aligned and the numbers were good. I need to do it again with the 440 so I will figure out how to deal with this without spending the bucks on adjustables. I have plenty of thread sticking out so kind of thinking a few washers on the back side of the bushings, just a pia to do the lca have to come out again. Doesn't make a rub going in a straight line or a right turn so there is a roundabout workaround! LOL
 
yep - because getting the poly ones to spec on the OEM strut rods causes too much forward torque - I had the PST polys on my first Scamp - before they were making the long strut rods... SUCH a PITA!!
I actually need to "loosen" them up and shim them to push the lca toward the rear.
 
Look at the pic the top one could just be a seam. It would suck if it is shorted internally.
 
yep - because getting the poly ones to spec on the OEM strut rods causes too much forward torque - I had the PST polys on my first Scamp - before they were making the long strut rods... SUCH a PITA!!

Would have been nice to know in a footnote saying you need to change them out.
 
Will that work out of car? In car that meter takes place of sending unit right? So the voltage is still coming through the cluster regulator. My understanding is that is about 5 volts pulsed DC. But out of car..will you be able to provide voltage to test just the gauge? Or do you still have to test it in the cluster?

The original miller gauge tester does not have any power supply, so you have to hook it up in the car..

Ray may make some with a battery which will mean that you can also bench test them off the car, which may be more convenient...
 
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