Get some fresh garlic cloves, chop up about 1-2 oz of them real fine and cook in with a can of chicken noodle soup. You will feel much better by the end of the bowl of soup...
Repeat 2-3 times per day as necessary...
Stop in for a cup of coffee
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Get some fresh garlic cloves, chop up about 1-2 oz of them real fine and cook in with a can of chicken noodle soup. You will feel much better by the end of the bowl of soup...
Repeat 2-3 times per day as necessary...
I can make a Hat, A Broach, A Pterodactyl...
[ame]https://youtu.be/L8oAQOvOEXY[/ame]
Up late, slept in late.... :violent1: :violent1: :violent1:
ale: That is a lot of money ...
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
ahh - morning groggy face.. LOL
Where did you buy those connectors and crimp tool for the pigtails that you sent me.
Now that I started, I'm wanting to do the rest if I can.... :violent1:
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Let me see if I can find some links for you.
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Here is the crimp tool I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RATCHET...147176?hash=item5682f2f1e8:g:358AAOSwd4tT~p0y
And most of the terminals and connectors I bought from here.
http://theelectricaldepot.com/weather-pack-delphi-connectors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RATCHET...147176?hash=item5682f2f1e8:g:358AAOSwd4tT~p0y
And most of the terminals and connectors I bought from here.
http://theelectricaldepot.com/weather-pack-delphi-connectors
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
you're trying catch-up on 9 pages - - will that make 'em taste better?
DMC is what we used on aircraft, the best but pricey!
Ters
Mopar infected...
Good day all!!
Friday funnies posted today! Lol! Had a good laugh at some posts.
Here is some African ingenuity for you...."homemade" welders. Took these pics during my travels. Operators were wtf am I taking pics for..."never seen a welding machine??" The one in the wheelbarrow was in Cameroon. The other in Malawi....descent welding!? Malawian guy did not have a helmet, used a pair of Ray-Bans!
Ters
Get the proper camshaft, and then use a set of Rhoades lifters.
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/
Read the second article on this page to find out how they work:
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html
Part number 2018...
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/PartNumber.html
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=rhoades 2018
To get more torque, here's a few tips:
The Rhoades lifters "bleed down" at idle and "pump up" by 3500 RPM. This takes out about .025" lift and about 15° duration at idle...
then by the time the engine reaches 3500 RPM, they are at full lift and duration, which gives you more low end torque and horsepower, more mid-range torque and horsepower, better throttle response, and more vacuum (about 2"-3" Hg at idle)..
I've been using Rhoades lifters since the mid 80's.. It took a while for me to buy into them, but they are the real deal. Many other companies make the variable duration lifters, but the Rhoades work the best due to their patented groove for the oiling... They now have some with increased oiling capabilities, but the standard ones will work fine...
I had them in a 72 318 short block with 10.5 pistons. Then I put the top end of my 68 318 on them and it idled at 24" Hg with a stock 340 cam... But when it got above 80° F outside, I had trouble with it overheating due to the high compression.
So I found a cheap set of 360 heads with a fresh valve job and swapped them on with a stock 69 340 intake, and the vacuum was still pulling 22.5" Hg at idle. Still very strong pull with that much vacuum...
Vacuum is velocity, the higher the vacuum, the higher the velocity in the port. VELOCITY IS TORQUE!!!
You can also run a higher rated power valve in the carb and not kick it in for better mileage. I was still able to part accelerate on the highway at 13" of HG, with a 10.5" Hg power valve, so it didn't need to kick in under part throttle acceleration... I was getting 17.75 MPG with a 2.76 axle ratio...
Some people on the board have accused me that they are 'snake oil', but they work. I would recommend them..
Also, if you port the heads, go with making them as straight as possible to increase flow, but try not to open them up too much (area). The more area you get, the lower your vacuum/port velocity will be. Try to eliminate restriction but not open the port area too much.
Then don't over carb. A 600 or 650 CFM will work fine on a street engine...
I've read this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=335833
It's actually a thread where a swede wants a high-torque 360.
I don't really know how engines work so I'd really like an "Internal combustion engines for dummies".
How do compression, runner length, cam data, head flow, exhaust length and other stuff affect the engines' performance.
I suppose there's a lot to be found on the Internet but I figure why not ask this crowd?
If it's not the right forum, I'd happily start a thread elswhere.
The intake signal is dependent on the length and area of the runners. For a given RPM, there is a mach number to match to get the velocity in the runner. At peak velocity, you will get peak torque. It has to do with the volume of the runner (from carb to valve) as to what the proper Mach number will be for that engine and desired RPM. By tuning the runner length and area, you can make the mach number to time the pulse from the valve opening and closing, so the intake pulse gets to the valve at the same time that it's opening. Then it has the momentum to "push" itself past the valve as it opens. This is how the "ram tuning" of the cross ram and long ram intakes work. they take advantage of the mach number to "ram" the intake charge past the valve into the cylinder. Sorta like supercharging without supercharging (to a small degree)...
So you have to balance the area and length of the port to get the proper mach number. If you increase area, then decrease length to keep the mach number the same. Likeways, you can go smaller ports with a slightly longer runner vs more area and less runner length. It 's the runner length that will determine the timing of the intake "pulse" getting to the valve...
Read a few articles on how the cross ram and sono ram induction worked and you can get more information and understanding...
It's also part of fluid dynamics if you study mechanical engineering. I believe that you are an electrical engineer... Look up fluid mechanics and mach number for more background...
Good day all!!
Friday funnies posted today! Lol! Had a good laugh at some posts.
Here is some African ingenuity for you...."homemade" welders. Took these pics during my travels. Operators were wtf am I taking pics for..."never seen a welding machine??" The one in the wheelbarrow was in Cameroon. The other in Malawi....descent welding!? Malawian guy did not have a helmet, used a pair of Ray-Bans!
Ters
Very interesting... #-o
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
hey Karl - 360 - bored 30 over, 4" stroke, 9.8/1 comp., 1.6 rockers and cam = Duration 282/282, Lift .495/.495 - can you recommend an intake and carb for me and what kind of HP #'s can I expect?
they also made them in 455 back then... :glasses7:
Very nice. That;s before they put the big "chicken" on the hood...
We used to have the same problem with the engine badges on the trucks. Sometimes one would get out with a V-6 on one side and a V-8 on the other... It was hard to catch when they mixed them because you don't see both sides at the same time.
Sometimes when we only flashed the build code on the screen, they would grab the wrong badge. We then color coded the prompt in the computer to try to give another flag to the operator which one to choose.
The color codes helped reduce the mis-builds, but still wasn't idiot proof... Someone worked on the idiot and made a new and improved idiot that could still screw it up...
So if it is involved in a crime, he can say "that wasn't my car, mine looks like this..." (and show the picture of the other side....)
It couldn't have been me.... #-o
What are you going to do with the car? Are you more interested in street cruising, or taking it down the track???
Do you want more low and mid range, or mid and top end.
Your cam will probably want a single plane intake for that much duration, or get a good LD340 or RPM air gap if you want to run a dual plane.
Then a carb in the 650 - 750 CFM range.
dual plane intakes have a stronger low and mid range, where single plane intakes have more mid range and top end pull...
I need more info on the cam: Intake open and close, exhaust open and close.
Are the heads ported? Valve size?
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
the car was a bracket racer - had NOS, Victor intake, 950cfm carb.. everything was taken to the nth degree.. I am taming it down for 80% street and romps down the 1320 here and there.. doesn't have to win anything, I just want to have fun. This is the cam- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-247-4 - heads are fully ported - I do not know the the valve sizes but, the heads are Edelbrock Performers
Karl, thank you for the info. I will read it more thoroughly when I don't have four hungry kids going bananas in the couch...
... and I've worked a little on hydraulics. Enough to know that fluid mechanics is non-trivial ... Especially for compressible fluids.
What you have is pretty well matched...
If you want to tame it down some, I would change the cam to something a little smaller, maybe in hydraulic and throw in Rhoades lifters as I recommended to Anders.
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/
Part number 2018:
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/PartNumber.html
Go to second article to see how they work:
http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html
they bleed down at idle and take out .025" lift and about 15° duration at idle, then give full lift and duration by 3500 RPM. You get your cake and eat it too...
then maybe top it off with an RPM Air Gap and 750 -850 cfm carb....
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
the cam I mentioned (which was just installed) actually is a step down from what was in there - so this IS tamed down - LOL. I am hoping I have struck a balance between streetable and 1/4 mile ready... the car has a high stall converter in it (still haven't deciphered if it is 4000 or 5000) so I had to be careful not to go too low on my RPM range. Ddaddy has a single plane M1 spread bore that I am considering and I plan to use a Street Demon that I think is a 750 ( I need to dig it out and rerun the model # for sure). My guess on nominal HP is no less than 425.. am I in range?
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