I am not even sure who makes a good one any more. I have a NOS one I picked up. There are transistorized ones also out there.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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If needed Mike I made up a tester for the gauges themselves in or out of the car if needed.
Hey Mike. Yes, on Sunday about 3pm, the Speed Demon driver lost control at the 2.5mile marker traveling 285-300mph and crashed. The car was easily 60ft in the air. RIP Chris Raschke.
My friend racing out there got a licensing run done yesterday. I didn't realize he had to go back through all his licenses. I hope he gets more passes in today.
Hard to like that Eric.
Just at a steady 14 hundred rpm's, it's quieter then before at 60 mph 2 thousand rpms, but at a low speed say 20 it does in second gear, got to get it to 35 to shift to 3rd but the drown don't last at all hardly in third.
I need to chase mine down as well. Fuel gauge is out and the Ammeter is just stuck to the right. Doesn't move
Thank you reddish, yes, just a dummy light in my 66 sedan.
Thats the ammeter. Just tests the draw of the amps through the wiring. Stuck is stuck. Might have one from the 64 cuda have to look.
I put a new one on 18 years ago that looks like the arigenal, but is a transistor, I believe square signal
Thank you Hoppy, all my gages was working, my gas gage quit nearly 12 years ago, but I found that my floats fell of the 66 model sender arm.
Depending on year model, that amp gauge issue could be a fire hazard. At minimum it can shut down entire vehicle. Edit, the most common amp gauge has a magnet inside. Tiny metal particals collect on it over time. Effects operation. Only place the debris could come from is the speedometer. Good luck
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Thanks. Haven't dug into it, but the the voltage across everywhere is fine... secondary volt meter is 12-13v.
Isn't there a relationship between the ammeter and fuel gauge?
That'll do it
I could have used my old tank with a good cleaning, its in dang near perfect shape..
I have never like that Mopar design at all. Especially when guys add fans etc to the load.
Thanks RF. Yeah, I keep everything disconnected when I'm not there, just in case, but I don't think it's a charge issue. With the battery out of the car that gauge doesn't move
None. Fuel and oil gauge use a IVR which drops down the voltage to them to 5VDC. It kind of turns the power on and off to them sort of like a signal flasher. The upgraded ones do use a square wave form.
Mine had a ton of crud in it. I kept the old sender. May swap that one back in if necessary. I cleared it up and put a new screen on it
Even mine ? 66 dummy light ?
Wondering if the IVR crapped out.. have to get the transmission happy first... then chase that
Can tell Redfish has been through this mess before.
Oh my sending unit looked like a very bad rusted skeleton
No that just turns on a ground to the light which is 12VDC
Easy check to get you in the right area as stated above.
I went with the A100 sending unit. It actually looks like the original. All the ones for the Valiant are wrong
Ok, thank you Hoppy and @RedFish , time to eat a boiled egg and take my chemo meds and others, talk again soon.
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