suggestions are appreciated

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pyrojim

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The 66 dart vert is getting ready to head to the body shop, and I think I've convinced myself to NOT use the stock harness for a couple reasons, first, my 71 dart seems to struggle to keep up, especially at night, second, I really don't want the worry of a fire. Electrical is not my strong suit. That being said, I'm very interested to see what others would do given a clean slate. This is a complete restoration. Thanks
 
The 66 dart vert is getting ready to head to the body shop, and I think I've convinced myself to NOT use the stock harness for a couple reasons, first, my 71 dart seems to struggle to keep up, especially at night, second, I really don't want the worry of a fire. Electrical is not my strong suit. That being said, I'm very interested to see what others would do given a clean slate. This is a complete restoration. Thanks


That is exactly why I am replacing every piece of wire in the barracuda!

Small price to pay compared to a bad fire.....

Lost a 69 Super Bee that way in 83. Also keep a fire extinguisher in hands reach since that bad day.
 
Depends on what you will be doing with the car. The stock system can take some very simple upgrades that would give significant relief to the factory setup and save you some serious money. If you do plan on big stereo, A/C, and other high amp items, then, yes, rewire the car. However, if you are very limited to your electrical skills, you may find yourself way over your head and you try to complete setting up your circuits. There are three simple upgrades you can do to your factory setup that would really make things function better. You will notice an immediate improvement with the headlamp function. 1. Headlight relays - There are kits available, or you could wire your own. Very simple and have been outlined in detail many times here on the list. Takes a lot of the load off the interior headlamp switch and bulkhead connector. 2. Bulkhead bypass circuit - Very simple upgrade. All that is required is an additional wire run from the hot feed of the alternator around to the starter relay. Needs to have a piece of fusible link added for protection. This again takes a large load off the bulkhead connector and you can keep the original wiring in place that feeds the dash, radio, and other interior items. 3. Not necessarily needed, but a great upgrade - "Run" circuit relay. By adding a relay to the "run" circuit, it again takes the load off the bulkhead connector and provided a good solid 12.5V+ to the ignition system. Basically, by adding these 3 relays (high beam, low beam, run), you will provide new (shorter) hot feeds to the relays and the original wiring that used to have to carry the heavy load just provides just enough to switch the relays on and off. This may be something to consider if you would like to keep your "restoration" closer to looking original as you can easily hide the relays under the battery tray, or other discrete locations.
 
What people don't realize is wire is only the path from one fire to another. Fires are caused by wear and moisture in components where the wires terminate.
Manually operated switches, wiper and blower motors, ALT' gauges, etc.. are common causes of fires. New and larger wire is kind of like changing the paper matches to butane lighters at these places.
Now another revelation... Us older guys have walked a lot of junk yards in our day.
We can recall so many wrecks that were only that, bent bad. In fact the few burned vehicles I recall were only burned, never bent.
We go to todays junk yard and see so many that are not only bent but burned bad too.
Why ? Simple, all the freakin electrical crap in the mix.
Bottom line, too much electrical, improperly routed wires, blended with remaining 40+ yr old components can do more harm that good.
I choose to renew original harnesses with minimal upgrades needed, rerouted in the same positions, and added circuit protection too.
Since even those factory engineers cannot prevent electrical fires in collisions, the very best thing we can buy is insurance.
 
Sounds like an oppurtunity to learn how and why 12v dc systems operate. Take your time and be careful and you can surpass the factory equipment. A sloppy job with modern equipment is still a sloppy job. What are your intentions for the car. Do you care if everything looks original, cuz it can only be original once.
 
Sounds like an oppurtunity to learn how and why 12v dc systems operate. Take your time and be careful and you can surpass the factory equipment. A sloppy job with modern equipment is still a sloppy job. What are your intentions for the car. Do you care if everything looks original, cuz it can only be original once.

I bought it as a basket case, with the motor, trans and rear end already swapped out. I did buy the plug and play headlight relays, a new dash, engine and body harness. also, I am planning on bypassing the bulkhead. What I am trying to accomplish now is relays for the convertible top switch. Basically, I'm trying to take as much load off of the switches and bulkhead as I can. Any suggestions on a four point relay? I'm sure like anything there are different variations of good, better and best.
Thanks.
Jim
 
If you study the headlight relay setup, a pair of relays for the top would be very similar.
 
Jim,

You mentioned a diagram in another thread. If you could send me a copy, I can come up with a solution for reducing the load on your top switch.

Rob

Post number 4 in this thread... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=255545&highlight=convertible+relay

This is the correct thread. The only question I have is this. As my current wiring is, there is only one feed, that comes from the + side of the ampmeter, goes down to the kick panel and goes into a 30 amp breaker. Out of the 30 amp breaker, it ties into the harness on the back side of the connector. two wires go the the motor and the feed goes back to the switch. So, if I power the relays with this feed, where do I get the power to the switch to activate the relays? Can I run a secondary from the fuse box or hot side of the ignition with a 15 amp fuse?? I'm confused because I only have one feed and wra jrs diagram calls for two feeds?
Thanks
 
This is what WJA JR drew up. I get the concept, just don't know where this feed comes from. This was drawn for a 67 cuda though.
 

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This is the correct thread. The only question I have is this. As my current wiring is, there is only one feed, that comes from the + side of the ampmeter, goes down to the kick panel and goes into a 30 amp breaker. Out of the 30 amp breaker, it ties into the harness on the back side of the connector. two wires go the the motor and the feed goes back to the switch. So, if I power the relays with this feed, where do I get the power to the switch to activate the relays? Can I run a secondary from the fuse box or hot side of the ignition with a 15 amp fuse?? I'm confused because I only have one feed and wra jrs diagram calls for two feeds?
Thanks

What I would do...

Run one 12 ga wire off the battery or starter relay stud if the wire from the battery to starter relay stud is sufficient. Place a 30 amp fuse in that run, maybe close to starter relay/battery. Run that wire back to the pump motor. Branch that to two inputs, distribution block or solder, for your relays (30).

Mount the relays right near the pump. Trunk access possible?

Use the existing wires yellow/brown to trigger the relays. Trim ends and put on correct ends for the relays/blocks/connector.

Have some real short runs from relays to pump.

This way you will have everything in the same proximity in case something goes wrong. Testing what's wrong will be easy if necessary.

The power for the existing switch is usually pulled from the amp gauge stud. If you put in relays, you could pull that power from a low amp fused portion of the fuse box. It will no longer carry the heavy current load so the heavy wire requirements at the switch no longer exist.
 
The 66 dart vert is getting ready to head to the body shop, and I think I've convinced myself to NOT use the stock harness for a couple reasons, first, my 71 dart seems to struggle to keep up, especially at night, second, I really don't want the worry of a fire. Electrical is not my strong suit. That being said, I'm very interested to see what others would do given a clean slate. This is a complete restoration. Thanks

Went with a painless wiring in my car. No worries now. Had 1 bad short. That was enough
 
What I would do...

Run one 12 ga wire off the battery or starter relay stud if the wire from the battery to starter relay stud is sufficient. Place a 30 amp fuse in that run, maybe close to starter relay/battery. Run that wire back to the pump motor. Branch that to two inputs, distribution block or solder, for your relays (30).

Mount the relays right near the pump. Trunk access possible?

Use the existing wires yellow/brown to trigger the relays. Trim ends and put on correct ends for the relays/blocks/connector.

Have some real short runs from relays to pump.

This way you will have everything in the same proximity in case something goes wrong. Testing what's wrong will be easy if necessary.

The power for the existing switch is usually pulled from the amp gauge stud. If you put in relays, you could pull that power from a low amp fused portion of the fuse box. It will no longer carry the heavy current load so the heavy wire requirements at the switch no longer exist.
The answer I was looking for. I'm gonna send you a pm rob.
Thanks
 
Not a good electrical guy, want to make sure it's right the first time. I'll ask the question ten times, feel stupid nine, but when I get it, I like to feel confident I'm doing it right. Tons if good folks, patient folks on this board!
 
In my 64 & 65 A's, I replaced all the engine bay wiring since hard and crumbly insulation. I used my own wires, with a relay box from a 95-99 Jeep. Search for my post "modernized engine wiring", if interested. I kept the factory cabin harnesses since the wires were still like new, other than cleaning up prior owner hacks, and adding a few improvements (relay for ACC switch position and relays for "blower hi". I put a 65 firewall connector in my 64 since it has solid power feed-thrus (only 63 & 65 have that).
 
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