Super Six fuel mileage

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Heres an off topic question. not that that matters anymore. IF I decided to keep the taller tires on the car, 215-75-15 or something equivalent in height. What would be a good gear for the *** end?
i dont know but 1st thing u need to do is pay it off lmao
 
Chuckie you need to find out what size gear is in the rear the will be a tag on the front of the hogs head or the rear it will read (3.08 2.73 examples) then you can go from there.
 
64 lucy,
the best combination for fuel econmy would have the engne running in the torque band, with enough vacume to optimize fuel atomation. and that depends on how your engine is built. remember torque is your friend.
 
I wanna say I have 2.73 in it now. i was considering a rear out of a 170 car. Its my understanding that the gears in them are 2.90ish
 
ok a 323 aint a bad gear for all around driveing but i dont think theres one wiht the back end u got i think u need an 8 3/4
 
I wanna say I have 2.73 in it now. i was considering a rear out of a 170 car. Its my understanding that the gears in them are 2.90ish

There you go guessing. You need to find out what gear you have. So far people here have been talking about how things work and you ain't listening.

Changing parts without knowing what is what. You're just wasting time and and money if you don't get the right combination of parts.
 
There you go guessing. You need to find out what gear you have. So far people here have been talking about how things work and you ain't listening.

Changing parts without knowing what is what. You're just wasting time and and money if you don't get the right combination of parts.

yep...
 
I still find it hard to believe and until you can prove it. What changes have you made and where is the documentation. PROOF is what we are asking.

1. Without it we can only go by what we know is facts your car will not get 21 mpg. what is the Condition of your engine,transmission and rear gear?

2. Did you have your trans speedo gear recalibrated for your size tire?
If not then everything is off from your speed and gear ratio in your rear because tires do affect your rear end. IN terms to help you understand your rear end will turn slower with tall tires or spin faster with smaller tires.

With that said get it all working properly and keep a a notebook of some type with pen write down the date,time, gallons of gas bought and mileage before leaving after buying your gas.

http://www.cleanmpg.com/cmps_index.php?page=hypermiling


Hypermiler is a term coined by Wayne Gerdes to describe a driver who strives to exceed their vehicle's EPA fuel economy rating. In conventional vehicles they can often match the mileage of an average person driving an equivalent hybrid. Hypermilers driving hybrids tend to achieve tremendous mileage, with some even exceeding 100 MPG . That being said, anyone can learn a wide variety of these skills. This site is dedicated to educating the driver of these techniques, so that they can raise their vehicles fuel economy no matter what they drive.

While Hypermiling is about a variety of techniques to improve a vehicles fuel economy, Hypermiling should not be equated with dangerous driving. While some hypermilers favor certain advanced practices that entail some risk and are in some areas illegal, these are not required nor encouraged. There are many basic techniques that are safe and actually make you a better driver, it is up to you, as a driver, to find your own particular level of comfort and fuel economy.

Hypermilers find it just as important to be safe around other traffic as they do about getting the best mileage. In fact these drivers are many times more aware of their surroundings and their car’s capabilities than an average driver, and are far safer then the average speeder or person driving while engaging in other activities, like talking on their cell phone.

The 2008 EPA ratings have been lowered for many vehicles so beating these numbers is now much easier. This means that achieving 40% above the 2008 ratings is no harder than achieving 20% over the ratings prior to 2008. Most hypermilers of course, push for pulling out all the stops and the dedicated often achieve 50% or better than the posted EPA mileage figures.

The best article on Hypermiling can be found in the thread "Beating the EPA - the Why's and How to Hypermile" by Wayne Gerdes. This article describes many of the basic and advanced techniques. Please read it and try at least one or two techniques in your daily commute. You will be surprised at how effectively they can reduce your fuel consumption and save yourself some money, while helping out the environment, while making you a calmer, more effective driver in the process!
 
There you go guessing. You need to find out what gear you have. So far people here have been talking about how things work and you ain't listening.

Changing parts without knowing what is what. You're just wasting time and and money if you don't get the right combination of parts.
.

Im currently at work, so im unable to go look. Im not just gonna go out and grab something and put it in. As you said, thats pointless. If im not mistaken though, the gear tag is gone. I know there isnt one on the diff cover. As for the other side, is it stamped or is there supposed to another tag?
 
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Im currently at work, so im unable to go look. Im not just gonna go out and grab something and put it in. As you said, thats pointless. If im not mistaken though, the gear tag is gone. I know there isnt one on the diff cover. As for the other side, is it stamped or is there supposed to another tag?

If the tag is missing there are several ways to find the gear ratio. Look around here in the transmission and driveline forums.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=34
 
its crazy everytime i have even tried to test for gear ratio i always get one... lol

with an open i keep one wheel on the ground and spin the drive shaft enough rpm's to = one spin of the tire... am i doing it right lol?

I don't know. I never had to do it.
 
When I had my 69 Dart 225 w/ 904 auto, I religiously recorded my mileage. I also verified the odometer was correct, against highway mileage markers. I got a consistent 22 mpg hwy at 60 mph. Speed limits were lower then. I had a Holley 1920 1 barrel that ran a bit lean. Only mod was a Crane XR700 electronic ignition, but I recall the same mpg when I had points. If you drive faster, air drag increases as the velocity squared, so can be painful unless you shadow a semi.

The biggest problem w/ the slant six is poor fuel distribution between cylinders. I understand that the outer cylinders tend to run lean and center cylinders rich, since the fuel drops have trouble following the air flow. Anything that better atomizes the fuel before the split should help, such as carb spacers.

Don't know if a TBI would help. My Holley Projection spray appears to just hit the throttle plates and dribble in w/o much atomization. A few people have fabricated MPI slant six manifolds. That should work great if the 6 injectors are matched. A possibly easier mod I have pondered is adapting the GM CFI "spider" injector, but not sure they made for 6 cylinders.
 
2bbl ball&ball carb. up jet 10%
fresh bottom end good valve job, cut .100" fromhead.
quick advance curve in dist. w/no vacuum advance. timing 38*
2.26 gears
should get 25 city 34 hwy.
also should drop 2 sec. in et.
 
When I had my 69 Dart 225 w/ 904 auto, I religiously recorded my mileage. I also verified the odometer was correct, against highway mileage markers. I got a consistent 22 mpg hwy at 60 mph. Speed limits were lower then. I had a Holley 1920 1 barrel that ran a bit lean. Only mod was a Crane XR700 electronic ignition, but I recall the same mpg when I had points. If you drive faster, air drag increases as the velocity squared, so can be painful unless you shadow a semi.

The biggest problem w/ the slant six is poor fuel distribution between cylinders. I understand that the outer cylinders tend to run lean and center cylinders rich, since the fuel drops have trouble following the air flow. Anything that better atomizes the fuel before the split should help, such as carb spacers.

Don't know if a TBI would help. My Holley Projection spray appears to just hit the throttle plates and dribble in w/o much atomization. A few people have fabricated MPI slant six manifolds. That should work great if the 6 injectors are matched. A possibly easier mod I have pondered is adapting the GM CFI "spider" injector, but not sure they made for 6 cylinders.

I know on slant6.org there are several threads on MPFI and TB injection. to me the better results are with the MPFI and yes a custom manifold would need to be made. Seems to be a good mod to do and help boost the mpg up.
 
2bbl ball&ball carb. up jet 10%
fresh bottom end good valve job, cut .100" fromhead.
quick advance curve in dist. w/no vacuum advance. timing 38*
2.26 gears
should get 25 city 34 hwy.
also should drop 2 sec. in et.

Interesting! Have you done this before?
 
When I had my 69 Dart 225 w/ 904 auto, I religiously recorded my mileage. I also verified the odometer was correct, against highway mileage markers. I got a consistent 22 mpg hwy at 60 mph. Speed limits were lower then. I had a Holley 1920 1 barrel that ran a bit lean. Only mod was a Crane XR700 electronic ignition, but I recall the same mpg when I had points. If you drive faster, air drag increases as the velocity squared, so can be painful unless you shadow a semi.

The biggest problem w/ the slant six is poor fuel distribution between cylinders. I understand that the outer cylinders tend to run lean and center cylinders rich, since the fuel drops have trouble following the air flow. Anything that better atomizes the fuel before the split should help, such as carb spacers.

Don't know if a TBI would help. My Holley Projection spray appears to just hit the throttle plates and dribble in w/o much atomization. A few people have fabricated MPI slant six manifolds. That should work great if the 6 injectors are matched. A possibly easier mod I have pondered is adapting the GM CFI "spider" injector, but not sure they made for 6 cylinders.

I know of at least a 94 model 4.3 vortec using a spider injector. that was with the central port injection system. Not sure about the mpfi.
 
Unfortunatly, i no longer have access to the necessary tools to do that.

Chuckie I posted that because it is something I want to later. I wasn't suggesting that you do it unless you want to. If you Really want to know about /6 go to Slant6.org
 
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