Super tuning car runs good shooting for great

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Any throttle movement should have pump shot. If no shot after 1000 rpm there is your problem.
 
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well I guess the testing will resume once this oil leak is fixed.
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Kevko pan looks to be leaking in the rear. Oil gets into the bell and the flywheel flings it around.
 


Rear oil pan seems to be the culprit. Was trying to get an engine run stand built. Sometimes you gotta improvise.
Found some old manifolds in the rafters. Had gaskets laying around from an old engine rebuild kit. Used a orange Mopar ecu with a balast resistor. Pretty sure I had it wired wrong.

In the end I have never ran an engine on the ground before and I definitely put a smile on my face.

Hopefully take the pan off tomorrow. Still undecided if I'm going to change the rear main seal.
 
Noticed the timing was rock solid without the alternator hooked up. I had just talked to a fellow Mopar nut yesterday after work about the same issue. My timing wasn't exactly steady. He had the same problem on his hemi car. Said there was a diode issue letting ac voltage through.
I'm going to try and do some research on how to test it/fix it.
 
skep419 said:


Rear oil pan seems to be the culprit. Was trying to get an engine run stand built. Sometimes you gotta improvise.
Found some old manifolds in the rafters. Had gaskets laying around from an old engine rebuild kit. Used a orange Mopar ecu with a balast resistor. Pretty sure I had it wired wrong.

In the end I have never ran an engine on the ground before and I definitely put a smile on my face.

Hopefully take the pan off tomorrow. Still undecided if I'm going to change the rear main seal.
Click to expand...


I really wanted to do this for my cousin's 440 but a lot of people on here were saying it's a bad idea. Looks completely steady and controlled in your video, I for one am convinced it's safe... super cool btw
 
Well I had my alternator tested today and it checked out. I brought it in thinking it was the cause of the timing jumping around.

So that leaves the msd box/wiring or an alternator issue that isn't tested by oreilly's machine.

I used my old mopar orange box while running the engine on the ground. The timing was dead on.

I will have to do some testing once I get the oil leak fixed.
 
Before you condemn the MSD box, check the reluctor gap on the distributor. It should be between .006-.008" on each tip.

Hughes sells a collar for the distributor to keep it from moving up and down.

Click here.
 
I gotta wonder if it is:
- A grounding issue.
- Or perhaps the phasing of the reluctor output in the distributor is reversed from what the MSD wants to see.
- Or maybe your timing light is responding to different pulses in the MSD spark chain. As in: it triggers on #1 pulse in a spark sequence, then #2 pulse in the next cylinder's spark sequence, and so on. I think MSD has some tech info on timing lights on their site.
 
I have to wonder if it is:
- A grounding issue
- The MSD is looking for the polarity of the reluctor pulse to be inverted and is presently triggering off of the wrong pulse edge (the slow, falling edge of the pulse)
- Or your timing light is responding to different pulses in each set of sparks. I.e., it triggers off of spark #1 for one cylinder, then triggers off of spark #2 or #3 in the next cylinder's set of sparks. I think MSD has some tech info on timing lights on their site.
 
MSD does not fire most dial-back lites properly, while it is multi-striking.
I have had issues with reluctor gaps that small.Namely, you have to keep after it as the top bushing wears. My system does not have issues with reluctor gaps from zero to less than about .030. I have been running .011 to .013 for decades. This prevents them from rubbing as the top bushing wears out.And I have driven over 80,000 miles without adjusting the gap. Maybe over 100,000 miles.Just FYI
 
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nm9stheham said:
I have to wonder if it is:
- A grounding issue
- The MSD is looking for the polarity of the reluctor pulse to be inverted and is presently triggering off of the wrong pulse edge (the slow, falling edge of the pulse)
- Or your timing light is responding to different pulses in each set of sparks. I.e., it triggers off of spark #1 for one cylinder, then triggers off of spark #2 or #3 in the next cylinder's set of sparks. I think MSD has some tech info on timing lights on their site.
Click to expand...

Good points here. I have first hand experience with the polarity issue but it was with the pickup wires specifically. I could not get the car to start after installing an MSD 6A and went on Moparts asking for help. Someone suggested I switch the polarity of the pickup wires. I did and it fired right up without hesitation and ran great.

Dial back timing lights are not supposed to work with MSD ignitions. My old regular Sears one is fine with it though.

I would also say that in no universe is a Mopar orange box a better ignition controller than an MSD. It might run better right now with the orange box because the electronics in it probably won't pick up more subtle issues like you're having but once you get to the root of your issue, the MSD will be a better choice.
 
If you suspect A/C leakage,just pull the Regulator plug off,before you start her up.
If there is any retard going on at all with a rise in rpm, then there is an excellent case for a reversed polarity on the pick-up trigger.
 
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Double checked the cam degree. Spot on.

Installed a timing chain tensioner.

Was going to use the magnum one piece gasket and it fit like crap.

Went with the standard cork side gaskets and the standard front seal. No seal just right stuff for the rear.

Double checked the wiring to my msd box. It was all taped up but I was able to use my fluke tester to make sure it was correct.

Hope to test run it tomorrow to make sure the oil leak is fixed and also hook up the alternator to make sure it wasn't the cause of the timing bouncing around.
 
That's a pretty wicked idle!!
As to the alternator, yeah that's one of the reasons why I stick with the Mopar stuff;unplugability. In your case you will have to divorce the alternator completely, to see what the ignition does.But I'm sure you already knew that,lol. Another reason is, I just like the looks of the SQ back units. But mostly, I like the idea that if my regulator were to ever fail (and it did once, driving the alt. to 19volts), I can just unplug it and keep on driving. Then hook it back up for a bit to recharge the battery, and then repeat as often as necessary to get home. My alternators seem to last forever with nothing more than bearings and brushes. I think the last one I actually bought may have been in about 1973; I was 20 and didn't know much about anything.I have rebearinged several, and some several times.And yes occasionally I have had to replace a diode or a diode-trio. And I've had an armature quit too. But I have a large box of salvaged alternators with parts to draw from,lol. Same with old-style starters; but I'll probably never use one of those again, as the minis do a waaay better job.
In any case I hope you find and solve your timing issue(s).
Again,Sweet sounding idle! If it pulls a sweetly as it idles, she'll be fun alright!!
 
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When I test for leaks,I pressurize the CC to 4psi through the dipstick tube, having previously plugged all access ports. Then I use a soapy solution at all known trouble-spots. Finds 'em every time!
 
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