Super tuning car runs good shooting for great

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Pretty sure I had used more than 4 psi hahahaha.

Drip from the rear of the pan.


Definitely steadier timing without the alternator hooked up.

Reason I have this alternator is to help with the electric fan.
 
So I forgot to put the crank oil slinger in.

I also forgot to install the special washer on the Z bar side of the clutch adjuster rod. It was super sketchy but I used a ratchet strap on the clutch fork to get the adjuster rod out. It made a magical boom when I let the strap loose. Probably could have went bad in a hury.
 
I just love it!

Hyup that sounds like a lot more than 4psi!
The thing about air pressure is that the psi gets multiplied by the area it is acting against, so say like on a tin valvecover of about 5x20 thats a hundred sq inches, and times 4psi is 400 pounds of force. So since I didn't hear a massive explosion,Ima guessing your VCs are not tin. And I guess your dizzy was bolted down too, or at 30psi, it would been stuck in your hood!
Lotsa SBMs are found without the slingers.
 
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Another odd ignition issue. I marked the distributor before taking it out. After I installed it in the car I had to advance it a hole bunch. The oil pump drive gear couldn't have moved what gives?

Only thing different is the msd box.
 
Did you have MSD before? Some timing lights don't work with MSD.
 
That is a little strange. I have had stuff like that happen before. Took the top end off my car, put back together and the floats were too high on the carb, ran fine and were not set that way when I took it apart.
 
Orange boxes are known for pulling timing out. I personally do not use them anymore.
Both of my cars have old MSD 6AL boxes and modified OEM distributors. A simple HEI is also under the hood that a few quick wiring swaps get back on the road should the MSD quit. Have not had a MSD fail yet.
If you are really super tuning you should check the rotor phasing. You can modify an oem rotor with an offset brass rotor tip.
 
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Took the car out to do some tuning. Only to find it leaking worse than before.

Woosaah

My family is healthy, we have a fridge full of food and beer, a roof over our heads, and all the bills are paid.
 
2questions come to mind;.
1) did you repeat the pressure test after the repair?,and, if yes
2) did you use the same unregulated pressure source?

See with a 4 psi source you can leave the tester installed, and work the soapy water around other, more difficult to detect,sources, and so take your time and hunt them down. :(
 
Cam plug installed correctly?

Didja shellac the galley plugs?

Teflon tape/paste on the oil pressure tap fitting?

Rear main installed correctly with the wiper on the crank side?

Bell housing dialed in?

If it's leaking after the trans was installed, maybe something to do with that?
 
As for the timing variations: The ignition system ECU's (orange boxes and MSD's) have some level of internal regulation inside of them to avoid having the timing effected by small to medium voltage variations on the system. So either you have a really big voltage variation going on with the alternator hooked up, or the problem is in the grounding or sensor polarity, that is simply changing the trigger point that the module is seeing. How much total timing variation are you seeing with the alternator hooked up? What grounds do you have connected?

With the alternator hooked up and things running, what DC voltage are you measuring across the battery? And then what voltage are you measuring on the ignition module? One test that might be worthwhile is to switch the meter to AC and repeat the above measurements and see how much AC voltage is present. But if your meter's lowest AC voltage scale is 200 VAC, then this is likely not going to register anything useful.
 
rmchrgr said:
Cam plug installed correctly?

Yep

Didja shellac the galley plugs?

Yes

Teflon tape/paste on the oil pressure tap fitting?

Yes but it's coming from the hole in the block saver plate.

Rear main installed correctly with the wiper on the crank side?

Yes.

Bell housing dialed in?

Yes

If it's leaking after the trans was installed, maybe something to do with that?
Click to expand...

Can't think of anything the trans would cause to leak
 
update.

1477594170_zpshvdkfn1y.jpg


did a leakdown test with the engine cold and they were all between 8 -12%
going to try dropping a quart of oil from the pan.
5.5 qts with filter in the kevko pan (is where its at the full line)
 
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12% is an awful lot.
If it was mine I would be doing something about that!
Here is a quote from Smokey Yunich;
"If the average is over 8%, you don't have an engine", and elsewhere,I read;
"only 1/3 of the heat energy(pressure)developed by each cylinder is actually going to push the piston down.So,if 8% is leaking away, you are theoretically losing 24% of the recoverable flywheel horsepower."

Ok so what is 24% of 8 cylinders? Yup, about two cylinders worth. On a stock 360 say @ .7 hp per cid,252hp, this would equate to 60 horsepower.And this 360 is now pulling like a teener. And not even a good one at that......192hp.

In your case, if that pressure is going into the crankcase, it will blow stuff out wherever it can. Fix one leak today and it will just pop out somewhere else. The oil pan end rails are the second easiest to push out. While the dipstick is usually the easiest.But that little hole won't pass much air.After that, I guess the dizzy is next.And then the intake end-seals.
Make sure your VC breather breathes in both directions!
While the cold test may not be accurate, in your case, at 12%, it won't make much difference.
But perhaps it is just carbon on the valves. This can be usually be knocked off without any more teardown than popping the Vcs off.I just spank the valves while performing the test and watching the gauge.Just a little tap,tap,tap, and let the springs slam the valves into the seats.If the leakage does not change, or changes very little, then, if it were mine;apart it comes! I would be looking for numbers under 4% and under 2% is best. With plasma moly file-fit rings and new heads, I have seen numbers so small that I couldn't really assign a value to it on those little tiny gauges.
Don't forget;the LD test is done with the pistons at TDC, so you cannot open the valves very far, else they will be banging into the crowns, so just a little spanky-spanky, and let the airpressure/springpressure do the job.
 
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12% leak down aint jack diddly doo doo for a cold engine. Engines should be warmed up before that test is performed.
 
well the machine shop found the bellhousing to be way off. (not surprised I installed the dowels and I wasn't the most confident) any how there is so much core shift that the bolts holes wouldn't line up even it was able to be corrected. :poke:

I have a 318 (needs intake, motor mounts)
go back to automatic (it worked with the block before) potentially destroy bushings.

Baby is on the way 1-30-2017
 
A cold LD test will however tell you a lot about how well the valves are sealing. When I see numbers so small I'm not even sure I'm seeing anything at all on that little tiny gauge, then I'm a happy camper cuz I know this engine is either gonna fly, or tear off the top of the piston.I'm always hoping the piston hangs together,lol. I like numbers down around 4%;2% is better, but harder to achieve. A needle width is maybe pushing things but I have seen that on certain 2-cycle engines.A bit scary,but it ran hairy,scary,fast.
Since I used to build a lot of small engines, I had to LD them cold, and the results went straight onto the work-order, where a bunch of other info also was recorded. If a particular engine was to come back, I was gonna be prepared. I remember one engine in like 20years coming back.And the customer pointing the finger at me. I calmly dug out the WO, and reviewed the stats.Hmmmm, it says here, and I showed him the numbers.And the factory numbers. Oh....... So When I tore it apart, it became clear,water had gone thru it. It had nothing to do with me. The customer paid, his bill.And came back.Everybody was happy.Especially my boss. And when the boss is happy, everybody is happy. It turns out snowmobiles are real sensitive to water going thru them at 7000rpm under full load. And it happens all the time. I re-built a lot of those,lol.
 
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I've got a different block I could use but i still haven't figured out what was causing the oil leak.

Couldnt run it on the dyno do to the core shift issue.

Can't decide what to do.
 
I had that issue on my 367 after I allowed a really well-respected engine shop to align hone my block,against my better judgement. Turns out their BHJ fixture, if they used it at all, changed the geometry so bad at the rear mainseal, that the factory seal would only go about 2000 miles before the rubber wouldn't contact the crank anymore, and the oil would blow out in the same location as where you are having trouble. while on the other side, the rubber was nearly worn out. I didn't catch it the first time either, thinking I had made a mistake during the install. But 2000 miles later it did it again. So when I pulled the second seal out, I had a really good look at it, and that's when I saw it. So I went back to my tool box where I had deposited the earlier failed seal, and sure enough it was the same.So I took the problem back to this well-respected shop, and showed him what was going on. And I kid you not, he said to bring him another block, and he would give me a free line-hone. Ok,wait, what about all the other machining? Um,no we didn't screw that up. Despite the truth in that statement, it was ridiculous.
Anyway, I went back to my parts supplier and it turns out a 383 rope seal fits in there with minor trimming, with the sharpest razor-blade in the pkg,lol. But no, the leak continues;just less profusely. I am on my third rope-seal, cuz it seems they are really tricky to install, and they are a little fat now that my block is all messed up back there.And yes, my bellhouse had to be moved up to recenter the tranny pilot to the new crank location. And all the Housing bolts had to be relocated as well.
Since you are having similar issues, I suspect this is also your case. The ropeseal is the easy answer, but it is not the best. Mine continues to seep and dribble. Oh yeah, I should mention, that with a new ropeseal and a 4 psi pressure test, it does not leak at the time of the install. The leakage begins later.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I had that issue on my 367 after I allowed a really well-respected engine shop to align hone my block,against my better judgement. Turns out their BHJ fixture, if they used it at all, changed the geometry so bad at the rear mainseal, that the factory seal would only go about 2000 miles before the rubber wouldn't contact the crank anymore, and the oil would blow out in the same location as where you are having trouble. while on the other side, the rubber was nearly worn out. I didn't catch it the first time either, thinking I had made a mistake during the install. But 2000 miles later it did it again. So when I pulled the second seal out, I had a really good look at it, and that's when I saw it. So I went back to my tool box where I had deposited the earlier failed seal, and sure enough it was the same.So I took the problem back to this well-respected shop, and showed him what was going on. And I kid you not, he said to bring him another block, and he would give me a free line-hone. Ok,wait, what about all the other machining? Um,no we didn't screw that up. Despite the truth in that statement, it was ridiculous.
Anyway, I went back to my parts supplier and it turns out a 383 rope seal fits in there with minor trimming, with the sharpest razor-blade in the pkg,lol. But no, the leak continues;just less profusely. I am on my third rope-seal, cuz it seems they are really tricky to install, and they are a little fat now that my block is all messed up back there.And yes, my bellhouse had to be moved up to recenter the tranny pilot to the new crank location. And all the Housing bolts had to be relocated as well.
Since you are having similar issues, I suspect this is also your case. The ropeseal is the easy answer, but it is not the best. Mine continues to seep and dribble. Oh yeah, I should mention, that with a new ropeseal and a 4 psi pressure test, it does not leak at the time of the install. The leakage begins later.
Click to expand...


Honestly it's taken the wind out of my sails. The beer from my brats.

I'm 75% on board to use the 318 I have in the corner and save up some cash to use my other block.

I'm glad you shared your story. I'm still not 100% sure that's the cause of the leak. But it sounds like it's a solid 90%
 
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