Superstock LBJ’s

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tribe_of_dan

tribe_of_dan

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Correction - Title should say Lower Ball Joint not LCA. Thanks Kern Dog.

As many know who have built a 68 Hemi Dart Or Barracuda, 1/2” spacers were used to lower the K member and drop the engine for extra clearance.

Initial cars were shipped with stock lower ball joints which meant that the suspension geometry was incorrect.

This concerned Chrysler engineers so they released a revised lower ball joints with a revised lower ball joint (see attached), and sent them out to the racers for retro-fit.

I am looking into having a blacksmith make the mods on my stock lower ball joint and I am interested to know who else may be interested in modifying their lower ball joints.

The blacksmith will create a jig by water jet and heat and bend to specs.
Price will depend on how many are interested in a pair.

Please let me know if you have interest. Thanks!

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Can you develop some in the safety aspects in terms of strength of the lower ball joint when this modification has been done.

Not question anything, or your capability and awareness of the safety aspects. Just interested to hear your thoughts around this issue.

One reason I ask is I was in to do this mod several years ago, but couldn´t find one who took the full responsibility, and guaranteed it would hold up as good as the original part.

Also, I hope to pas my car on o my son, and, well if something would happen…
 
Hi SSing,

I anticipated that this question would come up. Each person would have to assume their own risk. No liability on myself or the blacksmith. However, I personally am willing to take the risk as these are forged parts. The jig will make it accurate and so long as the piece is left to cool slowly I think it will be strong but it is up to each person to understand the risk and participate only if they are willing.
 
do you have a price target for them yet?....I applaud your effort.

I do not really see how they would effect normal turning at all....the only purpose (IMO) to do the mod is too keep bumpsteer at a minimum.....but I imagine part of the reason of the mod is to improve on the bumpsteer over even a non lowered K-frame set-up. Not for street , but for drag racers that leave the front dangling. The ball joint itself isn't really altered any...simply the tie rod end pivot point is changed by bending the steering arm inward and downward. I remember reading in the Direct Connection manual (I still have it) how to blueprint the front suspension.... the process involved plotting the ideal location for the pivot of the tie rod end, then simply heat the steering arm and bend away. Blueprinting the front end geometry was one thing that separated the winners from the also- rans. I gotta think this was something Sox and Martin taught in their clinics.

Maybe the Turk will chime in, I would love his take on it. After all.....he invented the Hemi-A body (mule). I bought his book, speed read it the other weekend and I do not recall him addressing this issue.
 
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Man, any info you or he could share would be great. I got my info from the LO23 BO29 Authenticity Guide. Price depends on if others will go in with me.

Numbers quoted to me we’re. Tooling $200 then $50 per piece after that plus shipping. Tooling would be “amortized” into the piece price so if me only I would pay $300 for a set.

If someone joins me then $200 per set. If 3 together cost would be $166 per set and so on. Shipping additional.
 
I would take a set if we could get at least 2 more to join us to help defy the tooling.
 
Thanks I'll give it a few more weeks to see who else may want to join us and then we'll talk some specifics.

Daniel
 
Great! I just want to make sure everyone understands that this is for the service of bending the pieces only. You will have to send your part and he will bend for the price stated above. We are not supplying new lower ball joints.

Sorry, if that wasn’t clear.
 
I guess I am one that misunderstood.......and what you are saying makes sense, however, buying the lower ball joints ($100) and adding shipping (both ways), plus the other (fair) charges makes them too pricey for something I am not sure I need. (for the Flash restoration)

sorry, but for me....I will take a pass.
 
I agree 100% with Denny, I'll have to pass as well...............For me that's about $500 CDN all said and done....
 
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Hahah okay. And just like that there was one.

Is putting your ride on blocks for the winter and sending the ball jointa you have not an option? If not... all good!
 
tribe_of_dan said:
Hahah okay. And just like that there was one.

Is putting your ride on blocks for the winter and sending the ball jointa you have not an option? If not... all good!
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communication breakdown...........
 
Keep the price reasonable, and I'm in.
One question, though............. how will these work on a clone car with a 1-1 1/2in spacer at the K-member? My car uses the newer x-ram, requiring me to have to drop the K-member a bit lower as these manifolds are a bit taller than the original x-rams.
 
hemicop said:
Keep the price reasonable, and I'm in.
One question, though............. how will these work on a clone car with a 1-1 1/2in spacer at the K-member? My car uses the newer x-ram, requiring me to have to drop the K-member a bit lower as these manifolds are a bit taller than the original x-rams.
Click to expand...

IMO, you might consider a taller hood scoop.

Besides compounding bump steer issues, you will need to get the steering shaft to line up with the steering box,...... and other clearance issues will pop up with those big valve covers when lowering the Hemi that much.
 
HemiDenny said:
IMO, you might consider a taller hood scoop.

Besides compounding bump steer issues, you will need to get the steering shaft to line up with the steering box,...... and other clearance issues will pop up with those big valve covers when lowering the Hemi that much.
Click to expand...

Well, I've had the car for a few years now & really haven't had any problems at speeds under 100mph. I'm setting it up for as a more serious kind of track car & want to keep things manageable.
As to the taller scoop-------NO WAY! I like the car's look & have seen the taller S/S scoops on cars----looks just as ridiculous as the over-sized Cowl-Induction hoods you see on the chevys. And as the car sits now (see pics in another thread) it looks "harmless" enough that it fits my style...........
 
hemicop said:
Well, I've had the car for a few years now & really haven't had any problems at speeds under 100mph. I'm setting it up for as a more serious kind of track car & want to keep things manageable.
As to the taller scoop-------NO WAY! I like the car's look & have seen the taller S/S scoops on cars----looks just as ridiculous as the over-sized Cowl-Induction hoods you see on the chevys. And as the car sits now (see pics in another thread) it looks "harmless" enough that it fits my style...........
Click to expand...

I have seen your blue Dart and it is extremely sharp. If you have the k dropped in that Hemi Dart 1-1/2" and you are just looking for improved driving performance.......that is great. When I read your post, I did not realize you had already lowered the K that far.....any clearance or steering shaft issues are solved.

My thought is with that much k drop (extra 1" over the Super Stock mod), ........you may want even more change on the outer tie rod end. Blueprinting your outer tie rod end location can only help.

harmless looking?....you would fit right in with us coffee getters.
 
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Still plan on doing this? I have a set of NOS LBJ's and a real Hemi Dart that was missing the front suspension before I got it/ It now has the repop k-frame with the correct spacers, so I could use a set of the LBJ's.
 
HemiSSDart said:
Still plan on doing this? I have a set of NOS LBJ's and a real Hemi Dart that was missing the front suspension before I got it/ It now has the repop k-frame with the correct spacers, so I could use a set of the LBJ's.
Click to expand...

I do though I’ve been in no rush. It’s been a while since I’ve spoken to the blacksmith. Send me a PM and we can get it organized!
 
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